The Fascinating History of Ice Cream in Ancient Civilizations

On a hot spring afternoon in 1963, a curious event unfolded at the Havana Libre Hotel involving two men sent by the American CIA. Their mission: to retrieve a poison pill from the freezer and slip it into the chocolate milkshake of Fidel Castro, the Cuban leader notorious for indulging in up to 18 scoops of ice cream after lunch. Although the details remain somewhat contested, it is rumored that the pill froze to the freezer coils and broke, foiling the CIA’s plan and allowing Castro many more days to enjoy his favorite treat. Ice cream has undeniably played a unique role in our world’s history and culture. But where did this beloved dessert originate?

Ancient Beginnings

The earliest accounts of cold desserts and iced drinks can be traced back to the first century in various ancient civilizations. Enjoyed mainly by the royal elites, icy treats were a luxury accessible only to the wealthy in societies such as ancient Rome, Mughal India, and Tang dynasty China. However, the processes involved in creating these frozen delicacies were not easily acquired. Wealthy Mediterranean nobility sent laborers on treks to high mountains to harvest glacial ice and snow, while the ancient Persians invented shallow insulated pools of water utilizing a method known as “sky cooling.” By radiating heat into the dry desert skies at night, these pools allowed the temperature to drop below freezing.

The Evolution of Ice Cream

The cream-based delight we recognize today was influenced by the development of sherbet, known as “sharbat” in Arabic. This icy drink is believed to have originated in Persia and gained popularity throughout the Middle Ages. European travelers brought sharbat recipes back home, inspiring local variations that incorporated flavors such as chocolate, pinecone, and even eggplant.

In 1692, Antonio Latini, a Neapolitan chef, recorded a milk-based recipe that some historians consider the first instance of ice cream. The 18th century saw ice cream become more widespread, thanks to European settlers bringing their recipes to North America. Initially, this frozen dessert remained a luxury mainly enjoyed by the upper classes, as the laborious process of making it required expensive ingredients like sugar, salt, and cream. Historical records suggest that George Washington spent the equivalent of $6,600 in today’s dollars on ice cream during one summer alone.

The Golden Age of Ice Cream

The true golden age of ice cream emerged on American soil as inventors and entrepreneurs developed methods to facilitate its mass production. Nancy Johnson vastly improved homemade ice cream-making in 1843 by patenting a revolutionary machine that featured a crank and beater, making it easier for home cooks to enjoy this icy delight. As refrigeration technology advanced, storing ice cream became less of a challenge. By the mid-1830s, New England businessman Frederic Tudor, known as the “Ice King,” significantly improved the ice trade, distributing thousands of tons of ice to households around the world.

As ice cream became more accessible, its popularity surged. In the late 1880s, political turmoil in Italy led many immigrants to cities like London, Glasgow, and New York, where they became street vendors selling scoops of ice cream for just a penny. Concurrently, American druggists began to envision a new social spot, the soda fountain, by combining soda—which was believed to have therapeutic properties—with ice cream. Following the prohibition of alcohol in 1920, many American saloons transformed into soda fountains, and breweries like Anheuser-Busch and Yuengling shifted their production to ice cream.

With improvements in refrigeration technology, by the end of World War II, most American homes had freezers capable of storing a quart of ice cream. Ice cream trucks also emerged, providing neighborhoods with easy access to these sweet treats.

The Legacy of Ice Cream

Today, ice cream continues to evolve in flavors, styles, and presentations. Its enduring popularity remains a testament to human creativity and indulgence. While some mysteries surrounding its ancient origins may never be fully understood, one fact is clear: our love for ice cream is a timeless affair that will never melt away.