The Evolution of Ketchup:

Ketchup is one of the world’s oldest and most beloved condiments. Its rich history stretches back to the mid-18th century when England embraced ketchup as a culinary staple. During this time, numerous cookbooks promoted the addition of ketchup to various dishes, including stews, vegetables, and even desserts. However, the ketchup of that era was not the bright red sauce we know today. In fact, it was a sweet and savory brown sauce that didn’t even contain tomatoes.

The Origins of Ketchup

To understand the early iterations of ketchup, we must explore its condiment cousin: fish sauce. As far back as 300 BCE, Chinese fishermen discovered a method to preserve their daily catch of small fish. Due to the abundance of fish and the labor-intensive process of preserving them individually, the fishermen would salt and store their catch together. Over time, the fish underwent fermentation, breaking down their proteins and resulting in a rich, salty liquid that was strained and stored as fish sauce.

This practice of creating a savory seasoning was not exclusive to China. The Ancient Greeks and later the Romans built their cuisine around the umami flavor of fish sauce, which they referred to as garum. The sauce became an essential part of Roman military campaigns, traveling with soldiers to the front lines as they constructed numerous fish sauce factories throughout the Mediterranean, capable of producing thousands of gallons of garum.

The Decline and Resurrection of Fish Sauce

However, the collapse of the Roman Empire led to the decline of fish sauce production in Europe, and most Europeans cooked without it for nearly a thousand years. This changed in the early 1600s when the Dutch East India Company ventured into Southeast Asia, where they discovered various local condiments. Among these was a familiar fish sauce known by many names, including "ke-tsiap" and "koe-cheup." Upon reaching British ports, the name morphed into ketchup, marking the beginning of Europe’s second wave of fish sauce supremacy.

European ships spread ketchup throughout the Western Hemisphere until they were ousted from Asian trade hubs in the mid-1700s. The public, however, refused to forget this delicious condiment. A plethora of British cookbooks sprang up, featuring recipes that included oysters, anchovies, mushrooms, and walnuts, all claiming the name “ketchup.” This creative expansion led to the development of many enduring sauces, including Worcestershire, A1, and HP sauce.

The Arrival of Tomato Ketchup

Across the Atlantic, American chefs began experimenting with tomatoes, a New World fruit that varied in popularity throughout Europe. In 1812, Philadelphian physician and food enthusiast James Mease introduced the first tomato-based ketchup. His recipe was a thin, watery mix of tomato pulp, spices, raw shallots, and brandy. While a departure from traditional fish sauce, tomatoes contain high levels of glutamate, the same compound that gives fish sauce its rich umami flavor.

The latter half of the 1800s witnessed a food preservation revolution, paving the way for bottled foods. Tomato ketchup gained traction and quickly became favored by various bottling businesses. By the 1870s, many tomato ketchup recipes had eliminated the shallots and brandy in favor of sugar, salt, and sodium benzoate, a questionable preservative commonly found in packaged foods.

The Rise of Heinz Ketchup

The most significant transformation in ketchup history came from Henry J. Heinz. After initially selling pickled vegetables, Heinz expanded his product line to include a variety of popular ketchups. Entering the 20th century, Heinz aimed to create a healthier alternative by substituting sodium benzoate with ripe tomatoes and a generous amount of vinegar. This resulted in a thick, goopy formula that quickly became a bestseller, even though it was notoriously challenging to squeeze out of the bottle.

Over the 20th century, ketchup gained international acclaim, complementing America’s culinary creations. Today, ketchup is a staple in 90% of American households, and Heinz’s classic recipe has even inspired numerous other sauces and dressings, all tracing back to the same flavorful family tree.

Conclusion

From its humble origins as fish sauce to the tomato-based delight we enjoy today, ketchup's journey through culinary history is a testament to its adaptability and lasting appeal. As one of the oldest condiments still favored worldwide, ketchup continues to bring flavor and joy to our tables, proving that good things truly stand the test of time.