The Home-Cooked Flavour of Abuela’s Arroz con Pollo.

It’s the smell that always gets to me first. A soothing, comforting wave of saffron, garlic and simmering chicken that transports me immediately back to Abuela Elena’s humming kitchen. It’s the smell of Arroz con Pollo, a meal that for my family means so much more than just chicken and rice. It’s a legacy; a physical connection to our Puerto Rican heart and soul; the foundation for any get-together, holiday or regular day; a ritual.

Arroz con Pollo, literally “rice with chicken,” is not unique to Puerto Rico, of course. There are regional variations across Latin America and Spain. But Abuela Elena’s version, handed down from her mother, and her mother’s mother before her, is definitely special. It’s more than a recipe, it’s a story passed down through the generations, a combination of embedded techniques and nuanced adjustments that define us as a family.

Born and raised in the concrete jungle of New York City, Puerto Rico was a mythical place. I’d only been a few times as a kid, the sweaty air and bright colours completely different than the familiar grey of our city streets. But our apartment was home to the island through Abuela Elena. Most of her stories, delivered in heavily accented English mixed with Spanish, painted pictures of a world of lush landscapes, vibrant music and, above all, wonderful food. And at the core of it all was her Arroz con Pollo.

Every single holiday, every birthday, every important moment – the centre of it was always that steaming, fragrant pot of rice and chicken. When I was little, I would sit on a stool and watch her work. She worked with an ease that belied her years, her hands flying as she diced onions and crushed garlic and so delicately dressed the raw chicken. She would hum a soft song, a mournful tune that always sounded as if it had the burden of her own memories of “la Isla.”

She did not measure anything and was guided only by instinct and decades of experience. “A little of this, a little of that,” she would say, pinching spices between her fingers, sprinkling them into the pot with an artist’s flourish. Recreating her dish always seemed to elude me, and trying to do so felt like chasing a ghost — the ingredients all seemed to belong together, but the soul seemed a little further away from my grasp.

As I aged, I began to appreciate the meaning behind her Arroz con Pollo. An It was more than nourishment; it was a lifeline to a heritage that was growing ever more remote. It was her way of giving us a small glimpse of her experience, of her history. It was her love language.

Abuela Elena passed away a few years ago, leaving a hole in our family that could never quite be filled. Her kitchen, the heart of our home, is now oddly quiet. But her Arroz con Pollo lives on, an indelible mark on my senses and a reminder of food’s ability to create connection.

I’ve spent years trying to replicate her recipe, documenting every ingredient, every step, in detail. It’s still not quite the same as the way she made it — there’s a magic there that seems impossible to replicate — but each time I prepare it, I feel closer to her, to her past and to the island she loved so well.

This recipe is my way of passing that piece of my heritage on to you. It’s not only a dish; it’s a narrative. It’s a link to the past, a ritual of family, a taste of home. Make it your own, put your own touches on it, create your own memories with it. Maybe in doing so you, too, will feel the comforting embrace of Abuela Elena’s kitchen, and the enduring power of a shared meal.

Arroz con Pollo Inspired by Abuela Elena

6 to 8 servings Time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour 15 minutes to cook

Ingredients:

For the Chicken:

3-4 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken parts (thighs and drumsticks are best)

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 green bell pepper, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 tbsp Adobo seasoning, store-bought or homemade (see note below)

1 tsp oregano

1 tsp cumin

1/2 tsp black pepper

1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, for heat)

1 (8 oz) can tomato sauce

1/2 cup dry white wine (optional, but advised)

2 cups chicken broth

For the Rice:

2 tbsp olive oil

2 cups medium-grain rice (long grain will do, but medium-grain is best)

1/4 tsp crushed saffron threads

1 (15 oz) can of pigeon peas, drained and rinsed

1/2 cup frozen peas

1 jar (4 oz) pimientos, drained and diced

Water, as needed.

Homemade Adobo Seasoning (optional):

2 tbsp garlic powder

2 tbsp onion powder

1 tbsp dried oregano

1 tbsp turmeric

1 tbsp black pepper

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp achiote powder (for colour, optional)

Instructions:

Prepare the Chicken:

Dry the chicken pieces with paper towels. Add Adobo seasoning, oregano, cumin, black pepper and cayenne pepper (if using), season generously. Ensure chicken is coated in the marinade evenly.

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat.

In batches, brown the chicken pieces on all sides until golden brown. Don’t overcrowd the pot; this is a step that’s essential for building flavour. Reusing the chicken and set aside after removing from pot.

Sofrito Time:

If necessary, still in the same pot, add 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Reduce the heat to medium.

Stir in the chopped onion and cook until well softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.

When both are nice and hot, add the minced garlic, chopped green bell pepper, and chopped red bell pepper. Cook for another 3 to 5 minutes, until vegetables are tender. It’s the base of the dish, and you don’t want to rush this part.

Stir in the tomato sauce and cook for 2 minutes, to caramelize slightly. Add the dry white wine (if using), and cook for 1 minute, scraping the bottom of the pot to release any browned bits. This gives the sauce depth of flavour.

Simmering the Chicken:

Add the browned chicken pieces back to the pot. Pour in the chicken broth. The broth should nearly cover the chicken; add a bit more if necessary.

Once it starts to come to a simmer bring the heat down to low, cover and cook for 30-40 minutes until cooked through and tender.

Building the Arroz con Pollo:

Take the pieces of chicken out of the pot and place to the side. Shred the chicken meat from the bones and skin, discarding the bones and skin (or saving them for broth later!). Toss the rice into the pot with the remaining sauce and vegetables. Stir in the crushed saffron threads, pigeon peas and frozen peas.

Add enough water to the pot that the liquid level is about an inch higher than the rice. That’s the secret to perfectly cooked rice. The amount of water can vary based on the type of rice you’re using, so start with less and add more as necessary. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the heat to low, cover tightly, and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Avoid opening the lid during this time, as this will release steam and impact the cooking process.

After 18-20 minutes, taste the rice. If it’s too wet, cook a few minutes longer, uncovered, until the liquid evaporates. If too dry, add a little further water and cook, covered, a few minutes longer.

The Final Touch:

Fold the shredded chicken back into the rice.

Add the chopped pimientos and stir in.

Re-cover the pot and allow it to rest 5-10 minutes so the flavours can marry.

Serve and Enjoy:

Top with fresh cilantro, if using.

Serve with Abuela Elena’s Arroz con Pollo.

This is best served with fried plantains and a simple salad. Best of all, share it with loved ones, along with anecdotes, and make new memories around the table. Because just as Abuela Elena had taught me, food is more than fuel. It’s a link to the past, a celebration of the present and a promise for the future. It’s the aroma of home.

With Love !