My First Taste of Molokhia

It was my first time traveling to Lebanon for work. Everyone had told me not to worry about food because there would be meals on the plane. So, that morning, I left home at 5 a.m. without breakfast, nervous, excited, and trusting their advice. Even when my friend offered me coffee in town, I hesitated. Why eat now when there’s food on the plane?

Well, that’s how I unknowingly began a three-day fast.

Yes, there was food on the plane, but you had to pay for it. Did I carry money? Absolutely not. We had a layover in Sharjah, and that night was cold, long, and hungry. By the time we landed in Lebanon the next day, it was 10 in the morning. But the person picking me up didn’t arrive until 5 p.m. That winter chill mixed with hunger… I can still feel it.

When I finally reached the apartment, all I wanted was a warm meal. After a quick shower, I sat down ready to eat anything. Then I saw it, a steaming green stew with pieces of chicken and a lemon wedge on the side. The smell of garlic and herbs filled the air, but the texture was something I’d never seen before. I tried a spoonful, politely smiled… and went to bed hungry again.

The next day, lunchtime came, and there it was again. My stomach groaned, but something inside me refused to give up. I told myself, “This will be the first meal I’ll learn to love, and to cook.”

And I did.

Today, molokhia isn’t just a memory of my first days in Lebanon. It’s a reminder of how food connects us to places, people, and stories, even when it starts with hunger and homesickness. I’ve learned to make it in my kitchen, and every time I cook it, I smile at that younger, anxious me who thought airplane food was free.

Here’s how I make my molokhia, rich, garlicky, and full of heart.

Molokhia with Vermicelli Rice

For the chicken and broth

1 whole chicken (or 3 lbs bone-in pieces)

1 medium onion, quartered

6 cups water

2 bay leaves

4–6 cardamom pods

Salt and black pepper to taste

For the molokhia stew

1 lb frozen minced molokhia leaves or 500 g fresh leaves

1 head of garlic, peeled and minced

¼ cup fresh coriander finely chopped

2 tbsp olive oil or ghee

1 tbsp ground coriander

½ lemon, juiced

For the vermicelli rice

1 cup long-grain rice rinsed

½ cup vermicelli pasta, broken into 1-inch pieces

2 tbsp olive oil or butter

1 cup hot water or chicken broth

Salt to taste

Instructions

1. Prepare the chicken and broth

Place the chicken, onion, bay leaves, and cardamom pods in a pot. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that rises, then lower the heat and let it simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken, strain the broth, and set both aside. For crispy chicken, you can pan-roast it in a little ghee or olive oil until golden brown.

2. Make the molokhia stew

In another pot, heat olive oil or ghee over medium heat. Add most of the minced garlic and half the fresh coriander, sautéing until fragrant.

Stir in the molokhia leaves, add ground coriander, and cook for 5–7 minutes until everything blends together.

Pour in the strained chicken broth and let it gently simmer for 10–15 minutes.

In a small pan, fry the remaining garlic and fresh coriander until golden, then pour that sizzling mixture into the stew. Add lemon juice, shredded chicken, and salt to taste.

3. Cook the vermicelli rice

In a saucepan, heat olive oil or butter and brown the vermicelli until deep golden. Add rinsed rice, stir for a minute, then pour in hot broth or water and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and cook for 15–20 minutes until fluffy.

4. Serve

Serve a scoop of vermicelli rice in a bowl, ladle the warm molokhia stew over it, and finish with a squeeze of lemon.

The result? A cozy, garlicky, lemony dish that reminds me of my first week in Lebanon, a mix of struggle, laughter, and the discovery that sometimes the meals we resist become the ones we love most.