The Complete Guide to Self-Arrest with an Ice Ax on a Snowy Slope

The Complete Guide to Self-Arrest with an Ice Ax on a Snowy Slope

The nature of mountaineering and winter hiking involves some chance of slipping on icy or snowy slopes. Self-arrest, or the process of stopping a fall with an ice ax, is one of the most critical skills any climber will learn. Whether or not you are inexperienced or mountain-climber seasoned, mastering the self-arrest method could literally save your life in crisis situations.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll show you the proper way to use an ice ax to self-arrest, step-by-step, through varying falling scenarios. You will finish this article with a good grasp of this life-saving technique.

What is Self-Arrest?

Self-arrest is a mountaineering technique used to stop a fall if sliding down a snow-covered slope or icy slope. First espoused in a book published in 1950, it uses an ice ax to press into the snow, creating friction that slows, and eventually stops, the slide.

Why is self-arrest important?

Prevents uncontrolled falls
Minimizes the chance of you getting hurt or killed

Assists in regaining balance on steep or icy ground
But if a fall occurs, it can quickly go bad if a climber doesn’t execute a proper self-arrest, resulting in high-speed slides, crashes, or worse, going off cliffs or into crevasses.

The Gear You Need for Self-Arrest

Before you attempt a self-arrest, you need the right gear. Here’s what you need:
Ice Ax

Select a mountaineering ice ax with a curve of a pick and a stout shaft.
The length must be such that you can use it comfortably (normally 50–70 cm, depending on your height).

Proper Gloves
Wear insulated, durable gloves to protect against the cold and friction.

Helmet
A climbing helmet will protect your head from impact in the event of a fall.

Crampons (Optional)

On an icy slope, crampons are more grippy than spikes and also prevent slides that could turn into uncontrolled slips.


How to Position an Ice Ax for Self-Arrest

Before learning self-arrest techniques, you need to know how to hold an ice ax properly:
Get a solid grip on the ice ax in your primary hand.

The pick should rest slightly angled back and downward.
Note that the adze (flat end) should be in the forward position.

Close the shaft to your chest with the spike facing down.
If something were actually to happen in real life, practicing this grip when safe will help your body instinctively respond to the situation.


How to Arrest Yourself in 10 Easy Steps

Coming Down on Your Belly (Face down, Head-Up Position)
It is least possible to do this from the most manageable position, self-arrest. Here’s how to stop yourself:

If you are not already in this position, roll over on your stomach as quickly as you can.
Drive the best of the ice ax into the snow at the level of your chest.

Maintain both hands on the ice ax, one on the head and one on the shaft.
Use your body weight to drive the pick deeper into the snow.

Slightly lift your feet to prevent the crampons from catching the snow and flipping you over.
Keep steady pressure until you come to a halt.


Strategy for Falling on Your Back (Head-Up Position)

If you get pushed over backward facing uphill, do the following:
Face one side of your body.

Tuck your legs down to roll onto your stomach.
With you on your stomach, use the same self-arrest technique as the last one.


Face-Down, Head-First Position: Falling on Your Stomach

THIS IS A DANGEROUS POSITION, BUT YOU CAN STILL TAKE BACK CONTROL:

Have a solid, in-body grip on the ice ax.

Rotate the body sideways while moving the ice ax across your chest.
Drive the pick into the snow, and lean your weight over it.

Use the pick until your speed starts to slow down.
Landing on Your Back (Head-First Position)

This is one of the most difficult self-arrest situations. Here’s how to take back control:
Let your legs fly out to the sides but keep your torso straight.

Turn your body, so you are on your belly.
Once in the chest-down position, utilize the standard self-arrest method.


Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even if you have been trained correctly, there are many mistakes people make when they try to perform a self-arrest. Here are some traps to avoid:
Delaying the Arrest

Act as soon as you fall. And the longer you slide, the harder you find it to stop.
How to Use the Adze Instead of the Pick

The pick is used for self-arrest, and the adze, for chopping snow. It is less effective when used from the wrong end.
Keeping Feet Down

If using crampons, keep your feet slightly elevated. Otherwise, they’ll burrow into the snow and turn you over.
Not Practicing in Advance

Get practice in self-arrest techniques in a controlled environment before trying them in real conditions.
How to Execute a Self-Arrest, Safely

Find a Safe Practice Location
A gentle, snowy slope provides a soft landing zone.

Stay away from rocky or hilly terrain.
Use Proper Safety Gear

Always wear a helmet and gloves during practice.
Start with Controlled Slides

Start by falling slowly and controlled, then progress to faster slides.
Use a variety of different falling techniques.

Simulate all four falling scenarios to make sure you’re prepared for anything.

Final Thoughts

Self-arrest with an ice ax: This is one of the most important skills to learn for snow-covered mountains. The key takeaway here is that by preparing in a safe place and executing proper technique, you really can increase your odds of avoiding a serious fall.
Before heading into the hills, make sure you possess the right equipment know when and how to self-arrest, and have practiced enough that these skills become instinctive in an emergency.
Important note: Safety is always the priority in mountaineering. Be ready, be careful, and have fun exploring!