Hangzhou, Zhejiang – A Renowned City for Chinese Cuisine

To truly understand the soul of Hangzhou’s local life, you don’t need to fixate on the scenic beauty of West Lake. Just wander into Damalong Lane, nestled at the foot of Wu Mountain. This narrow alley—stretching about 230 meters from Chenghuang Paifang Lane in the north to Chayuan Qian in the south—holds the cultural legacy of a Southern Song Dynasty cavalry garrison, and more importantly, exudes the vibrant, down-to-earth vibe of old Hangzhou.

In the early morning mist, cured ducks and sausages sway gently on bamboo poles. At noon, vendors’ calls blend with the sizzle of cooking oil. As evening’s golden glow fades, the aroma of freshly pan-fried buns and sweet fermented rice wine lingers in the air. Four local delicacies—pan-fried buns, juanji (tofu skin rolls), Zhang’s Sweet Fermented Rice Wine, and Youbu Soy Milk—are the keys to unlocking Damalong Lane’s culinary secrets.

1. Paifang Kou Pan-Fried Buns: Crispy on the Outside, Juicy on the Inside

The first delightful surprise in Damalong Lane often comes from the pan-fried bun stall just left of the archway. No eye-catching signboard needed—just a steaming wok that draws long lines of locals. The vendor skillfully flips the buns in the hot oil; their golden crusts puff up with tiny bubbles, edges crisp to perfection, as the rich scent of meat and dough fills the air. This is Hangzhou’s iconic breakfast.

These are authentic Hangzhou-style pan-fried buns: thin skin, generous filling, with a crispy bottom that makes a satisfying crunch when you bite into it. Gently tear open the crust, and hot, savory broth bursts out immediately—be sure to sip the soup first before eating the filling. The fresh pork filling is salty and flavorful, mixed with a hint of chopped green onion, perfectly balanced between lean and fatty, never greasy. A word of caution: freshly cooked buns are scalding hot—watch your tongue! Pair them with a bowl of freshly ground soy milk, and the combination of salty and mellow flavors delivers pure morning bliss for just one US dollar.

2. Damalong Lane Juanji: Jiangnan Freshness Wrapped in Tofu Skin

Among the cooked food stalls in Damalong Lane, juanji stands out as the snack that best embodies the delicacy of Hangzhou cuisine. This seemingly simple treat is a celebration of Jiangnan’s quality ingredients: thin, crispy fried tofu skins are wrapped tightly around crunchy bamboo shoot shreds and savory minced pork, then simmered in a house-made marinade until fully infused with flavor. Slice it up, and it’s ready to eat.

Freshly sliced juanji boasts a crispy tofu skin exterior, with tender, juicy pork and crisp bamboo shoots inside. The savory marinade seeps into every layer, creating a rich, multi-textured taste that never fails to impress. Local grandmothers say juanji was once a must-have dish at old Hangzhou banquet tables. Today, the version sold in Damalong Lane still follows the traditional recipe—no excessive seasonings, just the natural sweetness of the ingredients and the mellow depth of the marinade. Grab a small box to eat on the go; the lingering braised aroma pairs perfectly with the alley’s bustling atmosphere, making every bite a delight.

3. Zhang’s Sweet Fermented Rice Wine: Sweet Glutinous Goodness in an Old Clay Jar

Halfway down Damalong Lane, you’ll be drawn by a sweet, fragrant aroma—that’s Zhang’s Sweet Fermented Rice Wine stall. The elderly vendor is warm and welcoming, and in front of him sits an old clay jar filled with perfectly fermented rice wine. Plump, round glutinous rice grains float in a clear, translucent liquid; the scent is a rich blend of rice and wine, fragrant yet never overpowering.

At just one US dollar per catty (a generous portion that fills a big bowl), it’s an incredible value. Spoon a bite into your mouth: the rice is soft, sticky and sweet, while the wine liquid is crisp, mellow and subtly alcoholic, never harsh on the throat. It’s like tasting the gentleness of Jiangnan in every spoonful. Locals are picky about their fermented rice wine, and Zhang’s reputation is built entirely on word-of-mouth from loyal customers. Enjoy it straight from the bowl, or take it home to make fermented rice eggs or small glutinous rice balls—either way, it’s a comforting, soul-warming treat.

4. Youbu Soy Milk: Salty, Mellow Goodness from a Thousand Miles Away

Near the entrance of Damalong Lane, Youbu Soy Milk is the alley’s 24/7 culinary landmark (open from 5 a.m. to 2 a.m.). Originating from the ancient town of Youbu in Jinhua, this shop brings authentic salty soy milk to Hangzhou, making it a favorite breakfast and late-night snack for locals. No matter when you visit, you can always get a bowl of hot, steaming soy milk.

First-timers must try the signature salty soy milk: rich, creamy soy milk topped with shredded dried shrimp, chopped green onion and laver. It has a silky texture similar to savory tofu pudding, with a fragrant blend of soybean and marinade flavors—completely different from sweet soy milk. Pair it with a freshly baked scallion pancake, crispy on the outside and soft inside, bursting with scallion aroma. Dipping the pancake into the salty soy milk creates a perfect balance of flavors. The shop retains its retro decor; sipping hot soy milk and eating pancakes here feels like stepping back in time to old Hangzhou.

The charm of Damalong Lane has never come from fancy decor or flashy promotions—it lies in these traditional flavors hidden in the alleyway. The crisp crunch of a pan-fried bun, the savory aroma of juanji, the sweet mellow taste of fermented rice wine, the rich saltiness of soy milk—together, they create a culinary feast that captures the essence of old Hangzhou. Here, you don’t need to rush from one tourist spot to the next. Just slow down, follow your nose and taste buds, and you’ll discover the most touching, authentic side of Jiangnan’s local life.