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Building a Dog Agility Course

All because I volunteered at an agility trial . . .

By Kimberly J EganPublished 8 months ago 5 min read
Someone taking his poodle through an Open or Excellent run at the trial. This picture is a great illustration of the differences between my home equipment and official "regulation-size" equipment. You can see the pause table between the weave poles and the dog walk--I still need to build one of those. The leash runner is walking toward the camera on the right. She's bringing the leash from the entrance (the jump in front of the dog walk is the first obstacle) to the exit, where it will be placed back on the dog. A bar setter can be seen sitting in the far corner of the picture.

I used to love doing agility with Beau. Every so often, when the agility bug hits, I check out locally posted premium lists and run through my many reasons that I can't enter: I can't afford it, Badger doesn't have weaves, I can't afford it, it's too far to travel and get back to milk goats, I can't afford it, I really don't feel like someone playing "embarrass the human" again so soon . . . However, in 2023, I talked myself into two "For Exhibition Only" entries for Badger at an agility trial in Louisiana, just a couple of hours away. Those entries revealed all the flaws he had that needed correcting before we trialed for real--and I do mean ALL the flaws. "Embarrass the human?" No. Let's true "humiliate the human so badly that she doubts all of her skill as a dog trainer!" But being as resilient (stubborn/gullible/pathetic) as I am, I resolved to work harder on his focus and his weave poles and put away the idea of competing for a while.

Have you ever wondered what a judge's hand signals mean or how the dogs know where to go? The left photo shows a cheat sheet, kept on the scribe table. It details the faults/number of points off of a dog's run. The scribe then transcribes the judge's signals to the scribe sheet, which is sent to the score keeper. The bottom symbol is a whistle, which is blown to signal the dog's removal from the course. The right photo is of a portion of a course map. The handlers get the course map shortly before their class is called. They can't practice it, but they can walk the course for ten minutes before their class begins. The dogs never see the course before they run it.

Last year, sometime around the end of April, I was bitten by the agility bug again. To my shock, I found a premium list for a trial not 30 minutes from my home. I had discovered it too late to enter, even just entering Badger FEO, but I contacted the club to see if they needed volunteers to work at bar setting and other things. (Helpful hint: Agility clubs always need volunteer workers at their trials. Even if you know nothing about agility you can help running leashes or scribe sheets.) A week later, I was on my way, in comfy shoes and coffee in hand, at 6:15 a.m. for a fun-filled day at the trial. I ran leashes, reset jump bars that had been knocked down, and moved obstacles for course building between classes. After three days, I was exhausted, sore, and thoroughly consumed by the agility bug.

After I recovered, I was more determined than ever to build myself an agility course upon which to practice at home. I had a little practice tunnel at home already. I also had a few jumps and a pause box (four pieces of 4-inch PVC connected in a square, for those who aren't familiar with UKC agility). After the trial, I decided that it was time to put the gift cards I'd won in workers' raffles to good use and to expand my equipment collection just a little. I purchased an "add-on triple jump" to the selection and a few jump cup strips to make more single jumps. I still needed contact obstacles, but I was ready to start a little field practice. All went well, until Badger lost his eye in 2024.

With the exception of the four-way PVC connector, all of these products are by "Clip-and-Go," an amazing agility equipment company. While they are not always the cheapest option, Clip-and-Go makes equipment designed to make agility easier and more accessible, particularly when it comes to moving heavy contact obstacles like the A-frame and the dog walk. You can see the difference between the Clip-and-Go triple and a true triple jump in the header of this article.

Keep in mind, a dog needs depth perception to participate in agility. Some dogs do well without depth perception. They form a tremendous team bond with their handler and trust them to give the command to jump at the right time. After a little while, they adapt and develop a skill that accurately judges distance, even if it is not the same as having depth perception. Badger was not that dog. I put aside any hope of competing with him, to avoid his being injured. At that time, I didn't have a dog that I could plug into learning, not in time to Do Anything in the fall. I stopped building my course and life got in the way for the rest of the year. I did add a practice teeter (yay!), but that was the extent of my course building.

My practice teeter. You can see how small it really is when you consider that Whitefoot is the size of an average house cat. My teeter is roughly half the size of the regulation-sized teeter.

Once again, as it does every year, April rolled around again. I found an email in my box about two weeks before the trial. "Are you interested in volunteering?" Why yes. Yes, I am. This year, I helped set up before the trial, as well as leash running, bar setting, and moving contact obstacles. It was fun, as it had been last year, and I left with new resolve. A friend had already contacted me about doing agility league with her in the fall, so my excitement had already begun to build. Over the months spent sulking over the loss of Badger as a competitor I had discovered that Steele and Cassidy might be good candidates for agility training. I decided that I could add in Goth as a third potential candidate, if I could get his squirrely little brain under control and, if all three panned out, I could run all three in different classes even if they would be in novice competition at the same time.

Goth, checking out the "hoop" jump. Goth measures under 12 inches at the withers (the high point of his shoulders), so he would jump 8 inches. This jump is set almost right for his competition jump height. This "hoop" jump is only intended to give the dogs an idea of what a tire jump will eventually look like. While its configuration isn't exactly the same, it helps form a familiar mental picture when he or she is introduced to competition equipment later. Eventually,, I'm going to paint yellow lines on the uprights to help set the tire at 8 inches, 12 inches, and 16 inches, all of which are the heights at which my dogs will be jumping.

My resolve newly rekindled, I supplemented my three new gift cards with some cash and some credit and purchased some new 3/4" tees (for weave pole connectors), a new PVC cutter, a backyard hoop jump, and a backyard dog walk (some assembly required). In addition to the things I purchased, added a set of six weave poles from PVC I already had purchased for other projects. None of these things were wildly expensive and they gave me something upon which I can train between formal (club) classes. Once I get everything polished up, I will take a picture of my final course. I still need a home A-frame, an adjustable pause table, and a couple of double jumps, but those things will come in time. Until then, I'll work with what I have. I plan to enroll in an agility course taught by the club for which I've been volunteering, probably sometime in June. With any luck, we'll have fun things to report in just a few months' time.

They're not pretty, but they work. As soon as I can, I'm adding six more poles to the set, so that dogs won't get used to the look of six poles in AKC Novice and have to adjust to running through 9 poles (UKC agility) or 12 poles (AKC Open and Excellent) later on. A lot of dogs start "popping out" after six poles when trained that way.

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Agility is a lot of fun and is a great team- and confidence-building sport, even for people and dogs who will never compete at a trial. If your dog has a solid sit and stay and comes when he or she is called, then you have the foundation for training your dog to do agility. I highly recommend it as a sport and as a training tool to build your relationship with your best friend.

As usual, if you like my work, please feel free to like and to comment. If you have any questions about getting started in agility, please feel free to ask here. In future blogs, I will be commenting on the various competitive venues for dog agility.

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About the Creator

Kimberly J Egan

Welcome to LoupGarou/Conri Terriers and Not 1040 Farm! I try to write about what I know best: my dogs and my homestead. I'm currently working on a series of articles introducing my readers to some of my animals, as well as to my daily life!

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  • Randy Wayne Jellison-Knock8 months ago

    Good work on this, Kimberly. Best wishes & remember to have fun!

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