Coco Chanel and the invention of the sun

In the 1920s, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel didn’t just revolutionize fashion with the little black dress and pearls. Unwittingly, she also transformed the very concept of feminine beauty when she returned from a vacation on the French Riviera with an unusually tanned complexion. At a time when pale skin was a symbol of class, protection, and aristocratic purity, her golden skin caused a stir. Yet her clients immediately began to imitate her. As always, Chanel wasn’t following fashion — she was creating it.

From that moment on, a tan became a sign of privilege: no longer associated with outdoor labor, but with leisure, wealth, and pleasure. Those who were tanned had the luxury of basking in the sun, traveling, not working. Skin color began to tell a story of freedom, elegance, and success.

La Dolce Vita (in the sun)

Cinema also helped strengthen this new ideal. In the 1950s and '60s, Italy exported the idea of la dolce vita to the world. Federico Fellini’s 1960 film La Dolce Vita, though not directly about tanning, with Anita Ekberg glowing in the Trevi Fountain, evoked the sun-kissed charm and carefree seduction of the Italian summer. The sun was ever-present — in the skin, the gestures, the emotions. No longer an enemy to hide from, but a sensual element to embrace.

Cinema painted a life worth desiring: golden like the Mediterranean sunsets, filled with fame, beaches, and love. It was the age of paparazzi, of glamorous swimsuits worn with pride, of movie stars whose bronzed skin declared their lifestyle.

The legacy of a myth: bronzed bodies and summer fragrances

Even today, that legacy echoes everywhere — especially in advertising. Summer perfume campaigns like Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue embody it perfectly. Set in Capri, starring Bianca Balti and David Gandy, these ads showcase sculpted, sun-kissed bodies, white linen clothes, and that unmistakable Mediterranean light. Everything suggests exclusivity, sensuality, wellness, and vacation.

It’s a bourgeois aesthetic, yet accessible — an invitation to believe that by wearing a perfume, we too can belong to that world: barefoot on a stone terrace, wrapped in light, kissed by the sun.

But why are we so drawn to tanned skin?

Is it just fashion? Partly. But it’s also a matter of psychology and culture. Tanned skin enhances contrasts, smooths imperfections, visually slims the body. It makes us look healthier, more athletic, more attractive. And there’s science behind it: serotonin production increases with sun exposure. The sun makes us feel happier — and our bodies show it.

Yet in many parts of the world, like Asia, the paradigm is reversed: pale skin remains the pinnacle of beauty, a sign of nobility and restraint. Whitening creams, umbrellas, and high-SPF products dominate. Two worlds, two symbols, two aesthetics.

Conscious beauty: between myth and health

While tanned skin still captivates, we now know much more about the sun’s risks. The obsession with tanning has led many to neglect skin health — using poor sunscreens or worse, chemical filters that can penetrate the bloodstream and disrupt hormones.

It’s time for a new narrative: not to give up the tan, but to choose it wisely.

The most beautiful tan Is the one that doesn’t harm

Being golden like Chanel, sensual like a movie star, or sophisticated like a perfume model doesn’t mean sacrificing health. Today, we have safe and natural alternatives, like mineral sunscreens, that protect without harming.

If you're curious about how to choose the right sunscreen, which ingredients to avoid, or even how to make a DIY natural sun cream, check out my linked article. Because true elegance is awareness — it's not just about shining on the outside, but protecting what's within.

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