From Flower to Bottle

Perfume, that olfactory elixir, holds a distinguished place in contemporary culture. In France, for example, over 150,000 bottles are sold daily, a statistic that attests to the ongoing fascination with this art of scent. The south of France, particularly the town of Grasse on the French Riviera, serves as the nerve center for the creation of high-quality perfumes, as well as for the production of fragrances for various applications ranging from household products to pastries.

A particularly captivating perfume project is that of "Érudit," conceived to celebrate the value of knowledge and learning. This fragrance aims not only to delight those who relish imparting wisdom but also those eager to receive it, while remaining accessible to all audiences. It is distinguished by its subtle notes of wild herbs and orange, thereby capturing the essence of intellectual curiosity in an olfactory symphony.

The process of creating a perfume is both artistic and scientific. To capture the scents of flowers, several methods are available. Solvent extraction remains among the most prevalent. This intricate method requires the isolation of volatile molecules, often concentrated in flower petals, as is the case with roses. It is worth noting that a molecule is a combination of atoms—particles of matter such as carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. The extraction of these molecules can be likened to the extraction of iron from rock, necessitating specialized technical skills and expertise.

Perfume-making is a complex and refined exercise that melds chemistry, art, and the senses. In France, the town of Grasse on the French Riviera is considered the cradle of this industry. This town is responsible for creating numerous fragrances that permeate our daily lives, ranging from luxurious perfumes to artificial scents for everyday uses such as cleaning products or cat litter.

The process begins with the harvesting of flowers, particularly the petals, where the odorant molecules are most concentrated. These molecules are then extracted using a solvent, typically hexane, due to their high affinity for it. The hexane is subsequently evaporated, leaving behind a viscous substance called a "concrete," rich in odorant molecules but also in fatty substances. The concrete is then purified using alcohol to obtain the "absolute," a substance extremely concentrated in fragrances.

The production of these products is costly; for instance, the creation of one kilogram of rose absolute requires 800 kilograms of rose petals and can cost up to 10,000 euros. That is why these ingredients are often reserved for luxury brands. Perfume experts, often called "noses," use these absolutes to create new fragrances. These professionals are exceedingly rare; only a few hundred exist worldwide.

The human sense of smell can discern a vast array of scents thanks to approximately five million specific olfactory receptors. When an odorant molecule is detected by a receptor, the information is transmitted to the brain, which interprets it as a particular smell. Unpleasant odors, such as the smell of gas intentionally added for safety reasons, activate specific receptors that trigger an alert response. Conversely, pleasant smells, such as those of a chocolate cake, can activate the brain's reward circuitry, encouraging consumption.

The olfactory sense is an essential component of human experience, the importance of which is manifested through various cultural and historical examples. Consider the case of camembert, a French cheese with distinctive aromas. While its smell is widely appreciated in France, it is often considered unpleasant by many foreigners. This contrast highlights the role of social and cultural learning in olfactory perception. Individual experiences, often rooted in a specific cultural context, shape preferences for certain smells.

However, genetics also plays a crucial role in the perception of smells. For example, sensitivities to odorant compounds like androstenone, a hormone notably present in pork, can vary from one individual to another based on their genetic makeup. This genetic variability leads to diverse olfactory experiences and shapes our preferences and aversions toward certain smells.

The history of perfume perfectly illustrates how smells and their usage have evolved across cultures and epochs. Originally, perfume was employed in religious contexts, notably by the Egyptians who used fumigations to communicate with the gods. The term "perfume" indeed finds its roots in the Latin word "per fumum," meaning "through smoke." Over time, the usage of perfume diversified, extending from the embalming of the deceased to daily grooming rituals in Greek and Roman civilizations.

A turning point in the use of perfume occurred in the 14th century with the spread of the Black Plague in Europe. The fear of water and baths, considered potential vectors of disease, led to increased use of perfume as a means to mask body odors. This period saw the ubiquitous use of perfume, not only on people but also on objects and in environments.

The history of perfume and its usage underscores the multifaceted role of smells in human life. Whether it's a matter of food preference, genetic heritage, or cultural usage, smells are an essential element of human experience, influenced by both biological and social factors.

To delve deeper into this complex and fascinating role of smells in human history, one might consult "Perfume" by Patrick Süskind. This novel explores the life of Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, a perfumer endowed with an exceptional sense of smell, and offers intriguing perspectives on the power of odors.