Experiments in Gender

Experiments in Gender: Women and Masculine Dress

Fashion has been both a reflection of society's views on gender throughout history and a means by which individuals can express themselves. The adoption of masculine attire by women is one of this aspect's most striking and transformative trends. Women's experiments with masculine clothing have often challenged cultural norms, questioned gender binaries, and redefined femininity itself, far more than a sartorial choice. In the 19th century, the idea of women donning trousers or suits was radical, even scandalous. Women were expected to adhere to strict codes of dress that emphasized modesty and delicacy. However, figures like Amelia Bloomer—an early advocate for women’s rights—began to experiment with reform dress, which included loose trousers known as "bloomers" worn under a shorter skirt. Though heavily criticized, Bloomers represented one of the first visible challenges to the rigid fashion expectations placed on women, linking clothing reform to wider calls for social and political equality.

The early 20th century brought more dramatic shifts. World War I and II saw women entering the workforce in unprecedented numbers, taking on roles traditionally occupied by men. Practicality became a priority, and women began wearing trousers, overalls, and uniforms. These garments, while initially functional, symbolized a temporary blurring of gender lines. The postwar period, however, often attempted to restore traditional femininity, pushing women back into skirts and dresses.

Nevertheless, the seed had been planted. By the 1920s, and especially in the 1930s and '40s, women like Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn became icons of androgynous style. Their choice to wear suits, ties, and tailored trousers was both a fashion statement and a declaration of independence. In the hands of Hollywood stars, masculine dress took on a glamorous edge, suggesting that strength and sophistication were not solely masculine traits.

Fashion was an important part of the gender revolution during the 1960s and 1970s. Influenced by second-wave feminism, women embraced androgyny as a political and aesthetic choice. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent made waves with pieces like the iconic “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit for women, which combined masculine lines with feminine elegance. Wearing a suit was no longer merely about borrowing from men’s wardrobes—it became a bold assertion of power and self-definition.

During the "power dressing" era of the 1980s, this trend persisted. Women in corporate environments adopted broad-shouldered blazers, tailored trousers, and structured silhouettes to project authority in male-dominated spaces. The look challenged the notion that femininity and authority were mutually exclusive, reflecting and promoting women's expanding professional roles. In the 21st century, the boundaries between masculine and feminine dress have become increasingly fluid. Today’s fashion celebrates gender diversity and non-conformity, with many women—alongside non-binary and trans individuals—freely experimenting with all forms of dress. Gender-neutral clothing can be found in both high fashion and streetwear, and voices and designs that challenge conventional categories have been amplified thanks to social media. It has never been solely a matter of fashion for women to adopt masculine clothing. It has always carried deeper implications about power, identity, and resistance. Women who embraced masculine attire, from early reformers to current style icons, did so to assert control over their bodies and lives. Each pair of trousers, each tailored jacket, became part of a broader narrative questioning who gets to wear what—and why.

Ultimately, the history of women in masculine dress reflects a wider cultural evolution: one that moves toward greater freedom, individuality, and acceptance of gender as a spectrum. In clothing, as in life, women have continually pushed boundaries, turning fabric into a form of rebellion and expression. Their choices continue to inspire and shape the ever-changing conversation around gender and style.