Why "pop-up" restaurants are everywhere now

As the clock ticked towards the evening, I saw a growing line of eager customers outside, waiting for me to open. The line stretched with 20, then 50, and soon 100 people, each person ready to taste what we had to offer. I put my head down, focused solely on the task at hand, and began making tortillas with a steady rhythm: boom, boom, boom. There was no other way to keep up with the demand.

According to the National Restaurant Association, the restaurant industry faced a severe crisis in 2021, with nearly 90,000 restaurants closing across the United States. The pandemic brought unprecedented challenges, particularly for the restaurant sector, which was already vulnerable to economic fluctuations. As people lost jobs and struggled financially, many sought alternative ways to earn a living and connect with others. This situation led to a significant rise in pop-up restaurants.

The concept of pop-up restaurants isn’t new, but the pandemic catalyzed their growth. In 2022, there was a 105% increase in temporary restaurants compared to the previous year, and in 2023, the number surged by an additional 155% from 2022. While the pandemic didn't create the idea of pop-ups, it certainly accelerated their proliferation. This raises an important question: What does it take to make a pop-up restaurant successful, and can this model be sustained over time?

Eric Huang, a seasoned chef who spent nearly a decade in fine dining, had always dreamed of opening his own high-end restaurant. Before the pandemic hit, he was working in Las Vegas and had plans to open another restaurant in Brooklyn. But as the pandemic unfolded, everything changed. In January 2020, just before the lockdowns began, Eric left his position at 11 Madison Park. With everyone stuck at home and the restaurant industry in turmoil, he found himself unemployed and had time on his hands. This period of uncertainty led him to experiment with a new venture. Eric began rolling taquitos in aluminum foil and selling them from his car, offering them to passersby at Home Depot and local car washes. To his surprise, people were enthusiastic about the taste of his tortillas.

Similarly, Jorge Aguilar and Amanda Rosa, chefs and owners of Border Town, had to adapt to the new reality. The pandemic pushed them to take their specialty tortillas and tacos directly to the streets. They found success through grassroots efforts, including their first pop-up which originated from a Craigslist ad. The momentum built quickly, with Instagram becoming a crucial tool for promoting their pop-up. They spread the word about their Sichuan-style fried chicken and tacos solely through social media, which proved to be an effective and low-cost marketing strategy.

The success of their pop-up led to long lines of customers, with the demand sometimes exceeding their capacity. On one occasion, the line for their tacos stretched to the end of the block, with only a few people able to serve hundreds of customers daily. Managing this overwhelming response was challenging, particularly when it came to disappointing those who couldn’t be served.

As pop-ups gained popularity, many chefs and restaurateurs found themselves at a crossroads. The temporary nature of pop-ups can be both exhilarating and exhausting. The physical demands of setting up and breaking down equipment, coupled with the challenge of managing high customer expectations, can be taxing. For many, the joy of running a pop-up is tempered by the realization that it may not be a long-term solution.

Data on the success and failure rates of pop-ups is limited, partly because each small business has its own set of goals. Some pop-ups, like Apocalypse Burger in Indianapolis, found success but chose to close in order to focus on other projects. Others, like Southeast Roadhouse in Texas, emerged as new ventures from chefs with previous pop-up experience. For many, the limited run of a pop-up is a deliberate choice rather than a stepping stone to a permanent establishment.

The pandemic disrupted traditional business models and gave many individuals the freedom to pursue their dreams in ways they had never considered before. It shattered conventional rules and opened up new possibilities. Without the pandemic, many of these chefs might still be working in someone else's restaurant rather than building their own businesses.

The rise of pop-ups has led to a number of new storefronts opening this year, many of which owe their success to the audiences they built through Instagram and other social media platforms. Transitioning from a pop-up to a brick-and-mortar location involves learning new skills, such as negotiating leases, setting up insurance, and managing workers' compensation—things many chefs had never dealt with before.

For Border Town, the future is clear: they aim to establish a permanent restaurant. This goal reflects a return to the core of what it means to be a chef—making people happy through food. The experience has been deeply fulfilling for Jorge and Amanda, especially when they see the joy on their customers' faces and hear their gratitude. This personal connection and the success of their business have also led to positive personal milestones, such as meeting a future spouse.

In summary, the pandemic has transformed the restaurant industry, leading to a surge in pop-up restaurants. While these temporary ventures offer a flexible and innovative way to connect with customers and test new concepts, they also come with their own set of challenges. The future of pop-ups is uncertain, but their ability to adapt and thrive in changing circumstances highlights the resilience and creativity of the culinary community.