The summer taste in the Southeast Coast of Fujian

My hometown is a hamlet on an alluvial plain along the southeast coast of Fujian. I have always been fond of exploring everything in my hometown. Our lifetime is like one dinner party after another, and we establish ties with food among them.

Food is born from life, and life reveals itself through food. The best way to understand this patch is through its cuisine, which evokes the flavours of the four seasons in our memories.

For years, I have argued that there may be no better summer dessert than Siguotang(Four Fruits Soup). Despite its name, this delightful treat is not a soup. It's a unique creation that emanates the refreshing aromas of fruit, herbs, and the sea, blending sweet and honey in surprising ways.

Let's start with the bowl's star: Seaweed Jelly, or Shihuagao(石花膏) in Chinese. Made from gelidium, red seaweed that thrives on rocky reefs in shallow coastal waters. Min Chinese often prepare by placing these seaweeds in a filtering bag and simmering them in a pressure cooker with 3 kilograms of water. No process is complete without adding vinegar to eliminate any fishy smell. The seaweed is then simmered for an hour, gradually allowing the gelatinous agarose to dissolve. Once removed from the heat, the liquid is left to cool, transforming into a translucent gel. Its mild flavour and silky, melt-in-your-mouth texture are enough to tempt your tastebuds.

Next up is Grass Jelly, also known as Xiancao (仙草) in Chinese， a delicacy made from the leaves of the mesona plant. Its recipe closely resembles that of Seaweed Jelly. The plant boils to extract its gel, while a small amount of starch and baking soda enhances its smoothness and springy texture. The jelly then chills and solidifies into a dark, jelly-like substance.

If you find those two jellies' smooth and soft taste and texture dull and uninteresting, we have tapioca pearls to balance this bland mouthfeel. These milky white, tiny, QQ (chewy) bite-sized pieces(often like little cubes or pearl balls ), called A-Da-Zi(阿达子)in Chinese, are made from tapioca starch. We prepare 200g of tapioca starch, 20g of white sugar mixed in a bowl and 160g of boiled water aside. Gradually pour some hot water each time while simultaneously stirring the mixture quickly until it forms into a smooth, lump-free texture dough. After that, we roll the dough into a log and chop it into bite-sized pieces. If you don't want to look like a rookie at cooking, dust the pieces with extra tapioca starch to prevent sticking. Then, we throw them into the boiling water until they are soft. Compared with the smooth jelly ingredients, they are tender and chewy yet toothsome and require more patience to chew.

Foodies are always brave to challenge classic tastes from the past.They run wild in their imagination. They can pick any flavour, anything they like—taro for purple hues, spinach for green vibes, mango, passion fruit, sweet potato for a sunny touch, or dragon fruit for bold magenta pops —each adding its splash of colour and taste to this dessert.

Let's move on to the hard pick —a complementary component choice for this dessert. We have mung beans, red beans, Job's tears, lotus seeds, white fungus, and raisins for you to choose from. They all have health benefits, whatever one you pick. Mung beans are cooling in nature, and red beans are rich in fibre; they bring clear heat and detoxification. Job's tears and lotus seeds eliminate inner dampness from your body. White fungus is good for the lungs, and raisins support your heart. Apart from raisins, they are all slow-cooked until soft and chewy yet toothsome while keeping a subtle bite.

We finally get into the refreshingly cool part. Want a fresh crunch? The juicy,vibrant-coloured seasonal fruit can blend crispness with a burst of sweetness. The foolproof classics are mango, watermelon, and pineapple; their refreshing coolness will take this dessert to the next level.

That's not the end of it! During the most extended, hottest summer, shaving ice into fine, fluffy granules piled atop these mixtures of ingredients while a drizzle of honey or simple syrup feels like throwing out a lifeline. Scoop each spoonful, a quick relief from the hot summer. You pick up the penetrant cool bowl against the sun-scorched skin; the icy sweetness melts on your tongue, trickling down your throat, and then a blast of chill air runs wild and squarely tugs at your heartstrings. The experience of eating this dessert is not just about the taste but also the sensation of coolness and the refreshing relief it brings amid a scorching summer.

This small dish, a sublime combination of ocean and land flavours to beat the summer heat, tells the labouring people's wisdom and reminds us of our cultural roots, which even form the critical patches of our lives.

It's another summer day; intense heat has pressed heavily into ancient towns and alleys. Those who left home miles away have grown up. Years ago, they were fresh-faced kids; now, they have grown into faces with rough-hewn features and still miss this nostalgic summer taste day and night. Some must drive or fly miles away to copy and set the scene again—sitting under a tiny stall under the home's banyan tree, savouring every mouthful.

Each refreshing, chill and sweetness of Siguotang delights people and brings back memories of carefree summer days and the warmth of home. There is always one food that stands deep throughout everyone's lives. What kind of flavour do you have through your seasons?