The Flavor of Butter Can Change by Season

It’s true. I love butter. Smooth, silky, creamy butter. There is nothing like it to transform pan sauce into a glistening, slightly thick, lip-smackingly rich perfection. Substitutes just will not do.

I remember my grandma talking about “oleo.” During World War II, butter became scarce, so oleomargarine became the norm. Thrifty people found ways to convert all of their recipes requiring butter to this vegetable oil-based invention.

I thought it was created during this war, but no, Emperor Napoleon III in the 1800s was the one who demanded something to feed the poor and the military. Scientists initially used beef tallow to create a butter-like spread that was of lower quality and cheaper than real butter.

Eventually, beef tallow was hard to source, so vegetable oils were used to create oleomargarine. In the U.S., the term “oleo” was used, while in Australia this spread was colloquially known as “marge.”

Honestly, I wish we called ours “marge.”

But, all of that aside, and even growing up with a multitude of butter substitutes, I prefer actual butter.Did you know that butter can have different flavors? The breed of cow, the content of their diet, and even the time of year can influence how it tastes.

If you have a chance, go to a really good grocery where butter from different regions is available. Pick up two or three different ones, then conduct your own taste test. When you find a favorite, use that one in dishes where the butter flavor will shine.

In my butter fanaticism, I keep butter in not one, not two, but three locations.

1. On the counter

Softened butter occupies a place of honor on the counter. Kept fresh in a butter keeper, ready to spread at a moment’s notice. Don’t let this freak you out. Butter will keep perfectly fine this way. The bottom bowl has water in it. When you turn the top dish over, the one containing the butter, the surface of the butter seals against the water.

I couldn’t tell you how long it will keep this way — we always eat it before it has a chance to spoil.

2. In the fridge

There are packages of butter awaiting use in the refrigerator, stick by glorious stick. Before sticks of butter make their way to the counter, I have several in reserve in the refrigerator.

There are times when cold butter is best: to melt into a pan sauce, to cut into flour for a pastry or to tuck a pat into hot mashed potatoes.

3. In the freezer

And there is always butter in the freezer. Usually purchased 16 or 20 pounds at a time at my local warehouse supply store. Butter stores perfectly well in the freezer. I can’t chance running out.

In the interest of full disclosure, I do a lot of baking that requires butter. During farmers market season, I make around 200 scones for sale each week. This requires three pounds of butter, so no wonder I have a lot in stock.

I also preserve herbs in butter, making logs of rich herb butter to freeze — later sliced and added to everything one can imagine.After all this talk about butter, I know what you’re thinking.

“Her arteries are so clogged with all that butterfat, there’s no oxygen to her brain.”

“Bet her blood flows thick as frozen butter.”

“Cholesterol must be off the chart.”

The low-fat movement is surely having a stroke about now.

Yes, I use a lot of butter — along with all the other full-fat ingredients.

I’ve stopped using canola oil, shortening, corn oil, butter substitutes, and reduced-fat milk and cheese. In my opinion, these options are not healthy, whole food. Many are GMO-laden or composed of unrecognizable ingredients. I have stocked my kitchen with organic coconut oil, avocado oil, extra virgin olive oil, and full-fat milk and cheese.

And butter. Lots and lots of creamy butter.

By the way, my cholesterol is down.