Going home again at summertime

Having not seen my birth home for a very long time, I had misgivings and apprehensions about returning home. So much would have changed, people and everyday activities would have changed. Everything that I remembered would have to be reevaluated and reassessed. But the things that cannot change are the traditions of many a generation in the making.

I stepped from the cool interior of the terminal building and was greeted by a bracing oppressive slap of heat across my face. Yes, I have arrived in Jamaica. I recalled the words of the final attending immigration agent on my way out. She was very upbeat, and made me feel really great to be back.

Two simple words were all it took to bolster my self confidence.

"Welcome home", the smart looking young lady said, giving a quick smile as she stamped and handed me my passport back.

"Thank you kindly", I replied, hoping my apprehension at rediscovering my roots was not showing.

My mind was really on the food that I had sorely missed the whole time while away. No matter how much you try to recreate the dishes when away from home, it never tastes the same.

The ackee fruit.

This fruit which makes up the national dish of my country can be highly poisonous and lethal if eaten before it is ripened and allowed to open on it's own. It is best to leave the fruit on the tree until it matures and opens naturally, or if it should be picked before it opens, lay it outside in bright sunlight until it opens, again naturally by itself. The red outer skin is also said to contain traces of cyanide. This should be discarded as soon as the fruit is extracted.

The toxin known as HYPOGLYCIN A, is found in the ackee fruit and is highly toxic, and is found in the unripe and unopened fruit. If the fruit is forced opened and eaten, it can cause discomfort in the abdomen within two to six hours of eating the fruit, followed by sudden onset vomiting. In dire cases, such as in children, or more susceptible or undernourished persons, dehydration, coma and death have been known to occur. As soon as the fruit opens naturally, the poisonous toxic is expelled without harming anyone or anything.

However, modern care in ackee poisoning has been focused on relieving symptoms, and providing supportive care with restoration of fluids, electrolytes, glucose and PH balance. One should seek medical attention as soon as vomiting begins. This phenomenon is a very rare occurrence.

This disclaimer had to be given. This does not at all deter us from pigging out on this food that we love so much.

So why is this our national dish one may ask. This innocent, delicious, simply made dish that we love so much has been enjoyed by many over generations with delight and without worry. So I introduce this recipe with the best of intentions and the hope that the brave will dig in and take a bite of our Island fare.

Recipe

1 to 1, 1/2 pounds of salted fish

Ackee, one dozen – Freshly picked is best or sometime after picking, if not ready to use, it can be pre-boiled for about 5 minutes (which is required of any fresh picked ackees before using), cooled and then frozen. Canned as a last option.

Salted-fish – pre-boiled and picked into small pieces.

Ham – pieces optional or bacon works well too.

Tomatoes – Preferably plummy or nice ripe ones diced.

Onions/Scallion – cut horizontally.

Green Bell Pepper – or red or yellow

Fresh Thyme Leaves

Scotch Bonnet Pepper – Just to taste or more if you want it spicy.

Black Pepper to taste

Herbs as needed, basil, rosemary etc

Prepare ackee by draining tin and shaking off any excessive water. With fresh ackee, remove all traces of the seed and the red pod. Be thorough, never cook or eat the red parts of the ackee as it contains traces of cyanide.

Boil saltfish in a pot of water for 45 minutes. If using fresh ackee, boil it in a separate pot. Leave to boil until ackee is almost soft. Drain water from both fish and ackee, and breakup saltfish into small pieces.

Heat up a generous amount of coconut oil in a large enough pan. Add onions and tomatoes and fry until cooked.

Add saltfish and fry for a few minutes. Later add the ackee, being careful while stirring it so it doesn't end up like mush. Let simmer for another 5 minutes and then serve.

Ackee and saltfish is usually eaten with Breadfruit, rice or whatever one fancies to partake of. There are many choices available.

Before all this food specialization however, and while travelling home I can see the myriad of fruit trees as I drive along the roads, mangoes of every variety, coconuts and pears, but mostly mangoes, I cannot wait to chow down on the mangoes. The thing in this country is that your neighbor will plant trees, you plant trees, and the limbs of all trees protrude over all the fences and walls allowing everyone a wide and pleasant variety of fruits, vegetables and whatever is offered by nature in abundance.

Mangoes.

The more exotic food and fruits, like watermelon and apples which are not offered in the towns can be procured deeper in the countryside or in the huge marketplaces all over the country. Many people just leave the specialization crops to the experts.

Watermelon in summer, yummy.

I finally get home, and after greeting everyone who has not seen me in a while, I head to the back yard. The neighbor's lovely Julie mango tree limb hangs over the wall and I brave the wasps and birds to reach up to pick a few mangoes. I have to grab them and sprint away, bees are buzzing and warning me to leave the area. How rude, there are enough for everyone.

I eat so many mangoes, and the days being so hot, I then resort to the blending of the mangoes, bananas, and whatever fruits are available to help in quenching the insatiable thirst of the sunny days. How much water can a body drink, it is a welcome change to add smoothies to the summer mix.

So the Jerk Chicken, Coconut water, fried plantain, Curried Goat, Fried Fish and Festival are yet to come. Do not forget the Rice and Peas.

Yes, it is summer, and I am home.

Let the gourmandizing and gluttony begin!

N.A.