Walking the Edge of Heaven: My Journey to Indrahar Pass

Some journeys begin long before you lace up your boots. Mine started while scrolling through pictures of snow-capped peaks late one night. I’d been craving something raw, something that would push me, quiet me, shake me awake. That’s when I came across Indrahar Pass Trek.

Located above Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, the trail climbs into the Dhauladhar range, kissing the sky at over 14,000 feet. It looked wild, untamed, and beautiful. I didn’t need more convincing.

With a few friends and our backpacks ready, we set out for what would become one of the most challenging and soul-shifting adventures of my life.

From McLeod Ganj to Triund – A Gentle Beginning

Our trek began at McLeod Ganj, the town of monks and prayer flags. There was something comforting about starting in a place so spiritually rich. After a warm breakfast and some last-minute shopping for wool socks and trail snacks, we began the first leg—to Triund.

The trail was forgiving, weaving through pine forests and rhododendron patches. With every step, the city noise in our heads melted into birdsong and wind rustling through leaves. We reached Triund by late afternoon, where the sun cast golden shadows on the snow-draped Dhauladhar range.

Camping there that night, under a sky flooded with stars, I felt something shift. The mountains weren’t just scenery—they were becoming part of me.

Snow, Silence, and the Steep Climb to Ilaqa Got

The next morning, we packed our gear and headed toward Ilaqa Got, a high-altitude meadow surrounded by towering ridgelines. The air grew thinner, the wind colder, and the terrain steeper.

We crossed melting snowfields, jumped over icy streams, and passed shepherd huts tucked into valleys. The trail tested us with every step. But with every glance back, the view grew more rewarding

By the time we reached Ilaqa Got, my legs were sore, and my lungs felt the altitude—but my heart was full. The campsite was surreal. We were surrounded by walls of stone and snow, and the silence was so deep, it echoed. That night, wrapped in layers inside my tent, I watched the moonlight fall over the white peaks. I felt small—but in the best way.

The Push to Indrahar Pass – Beauty and Brutality

Summit day began before dawn. It was bitter cold, and the headlamps barely pierced the darkness as we began the final push to Indrahar Pass. This stretch was the hardest. The trail disappeared under snow, and we had to rely on our guide’s memory and footsteps.

Every step felt like a battle—with the altitude, the cold, and the voice in your head telling you to turn back. But there’s something about walking through snow with wind howling in your ears and mountains rising above you—it strips away everything that’s not real.

And then, finally, we were there.

Indrahar Pass. 14,245 feet.

We stood at the edge of the ridge, with the whole of the Kangra Valley sprawling behind us and the snowbound expanse of Chamba stretching ahead. The wind roared, the prayer flags fluttered, and for a moment, there was no past or future—just this wild, breathless now.

I cried. Not because it was over. But because I had never felt more alive.

The Descent – And Holding on to the Feeling

The climb down was quieter. Exhaustion had set in, but so had something else—gratitude. The rocks we cursed on the way up, the cold that bit through our gloves, the moments we questioned ourselves—it all made sense now. That’s the thing about treks like Indrahar Pass—they break you open so that light can come in.

We reached Triund by evening and McLeod Ganj the next day. Everything felt louder, faster. But I held on tightly to the calm I had found up there.

I remember sipping ginger lemon tea on a rooftop cafe, watching clouds roll in over the hills. My legs were sore, my lips chapped, my skin sunburnt. But inside—I was weightless.

Why Indrahar Pass Was More Than Just a Trek

The Indrahar Pass Trek isn’t just about snow trails and killer views—though it has plenty of both. It’s about finding out what you’re made of. It’s about letting the mountains humble you, heal you, and teach you to slow down.

It’s not for the faint-hearted. It’s cold. It’s steep. It’ll make you question yourself. But at the top, when you look out over the world from the spine of the Dhauladhars—you’ll understand. You’ll know why people keep going back to the mountains.

If you’re looking for more than a vacation—if you’re looking for a story to carry with you forever—go trek Indrahar Pass.

Because somewhere between the snow and the sky, you might just find yourself.