Spirit Island

2021, fresh out of COVID territory, my Ex and I decided to go somewhere after spending the year in lock-down while going through his cancer treatments. It was a trying year and we both were in desperate need to live again. He decided upon Calgary, Alberta – specifically to visit the Canadian Badlands in Drumheller, Banff National Park and Jasper National Park of Canada.

A total of five days is what was decided would be needed to see everything, how gravely wrong we were. Aside from the exhaustion we felt, there was a still exhilaration in our every movement as we journeyed to every pin point on our map.

Drumheller was easy, it was our first day, we had a lot of pep to our steps and energy for everything. We learned why the Badlands got it’s name, very difficult to traverse or even set up living quarters. We hiked about Horseshoe Canyon which according to history got it’s name due to it being the place horse thieves tend to hide out back in those days. After we had enough, we moved on to the Hoodoos of Drumheller where we climbed and maneuvered ourselves around these massive sandstone pillars to take pictures with these giant mushroom like structures. It was a lot of fun but it left us hungry for more adventure in these parts. As excited we were to experience this all in one day, tiredness did not take very long to happen upon us.

We woke up bright and early and headed to our next destination – Banff National Park where we intended to spend two days and two nights. The drive was easy and calm being a weekday but I could not control my giddiness that rose within me as Steve pointed out the silhouette of the Rockies in the distance. As they became more visible as we made our way closer the scenes became more and more spectacular. I had no idea what was in store for me. We arrived at Lake Louise first and as we strode fiercely towards the lake and the scene unfolded I was blown away, it was like walking into a postcard. My heart slowed and I felt in that moment I was right where I needed to be. We spent the day hiking through the trails of the park stopping by each of the two tea houses which were cute, perfect little rest spots for any unprepared visitors such as we were. This activity took us eight hours to complete and allowed us to visit scenic spots such as Mirror lake which you must pass as you make your way up to The Beehive and the first tea house. After the trek to the Beehive was successful and we felt sufficiently rested, we made our way to the final tea house where we got beautiful shots of the Plain of Six Glaciers and a hot soup to rejuvenate us enough to make it back down to our car in the parking lot.

The next day we woke at the ungodly hour of 3AM to make our way to Lake Moraine. Steve read somewhere that this would be the best time to visit to avoid parking issues and to get the best views of this picturesque scene. It was freezing but we were prepared in that sense atleast. To answer in regards to whether it was worth it – YES! Every wink lost was worth it. Experiencing the serenity of this place as the sun made its ascent, placed a resounding silence on the on-lookers present. I was graced with the respect that nature commands and thankful that I was able to be here with Steve after everything he had been through in the past year. We hiked about the trail in this park and by lunch we were ready for a nap.

We slept soundly that night and rose early to start making our way to Jasper National Park of Canada. Along the way we found a parking close to the Columbia Icefield and spent a few hours hiking the area and even got the opportunity to get on to the icefield. In our books that was a major plus. We got to Jasper later that day and spent the afternoon and evening walking about the town and gathering souvenirs.

The next day we made our way to Maligne Lake, and I had no idea how much this visit would have impacted me as much as it did. We took a boat along the lake where we were educated on the history of the land and the wildfire that almost destroyed a majority of the park. We had taken note of this as we drove to Maligne Lake that day, the burnt trees stretched on for acres and we were appreciative to have someone narrate the cause and tragedy. Unlike the most recent fire in 2024 that engulfed the town of Jasper we walked about serenely in 2021, the fire we were educated about had never reached the town.

The boat ride ended at Spirit Island, a place only accessible by boat that feels magical and holy as you take in the entire surrounding. It should be known that Spirit Island is not actually an island and is connected to the shore. Due to melting snow and heavy rains the water levels rise high enough to cover the connecting land to the shoreline giving the land and island-like impression.

Our guides spoke of this place being sacred to the Stoney Nakoda First Nation and report first hand that when the natives of the Stoney Nakoda First Nation visit, it is a spectacle to behold. Wild life particularly bald eagles descend upon the land as if to welcome them. As they told us beautiful tales of the land, the hairs on my neck stood on end. They spoke of the island being the meeting place for two young lovers belonging to feuding tribes that used the island for their forbidden love. It is said the young woman decided to confess the affair to her father who then forbade her from ever visiting the island again. Her lover journeyed back year after year to the island in hopes she would return. The Stoney Nakoda First Nation believe the mountains surrounding this island are the physical representations of their ancestors. This belief is sort of backed up by artist and explorer Mary Schaffer – the first European to happen across Maligne Lake in 1908. Although she never mentioned the island, she did reference the area as the “Hall of Gods”. Primarily, because one of the mountains shapes a face staring into the heavens. When we took this picture, it was never with intent to capture the mountain but to capture the island in it’s true beauty and serenity. What we managed to capture in the background was more than we bargained for – the face that they spoke of, staring up into the heavens.

As I write this all, I recall crying during this experience and Steve hugging me to him for comfort. I recall the guides speaking of people travelling to this sacred place to find peace and direction - lost and weary souls looking for solace. Visitors would bathe in the lake as cold as it might be and even fill their water bottles with water from this box canyon in which Spirit Island resides. I was not aware at the time or ready to acknowledge the weariness of my spirit at that time but while there I did venture down to the shore and placed my palms into the waters with the intent and belief that I too would find my best path.

We left Jasper the next morning and a sadness overwhelmed me. I was happy to have been here but I also knew that this was the beginning of an end. Steve and I parted ways shortly after due to irreconcilable differences but much love in our hearts for the other. I can’t say for sure if the waters of this canyon, the energy of this place or the fact that it was the last point on our journey had anything significance but I can say when I look at this picture now, I feel acceptance and absolute assuredness that I was where I needed to be and still am.