The 1990 Lenin Peak Disaster

‘Extreme’ fascinates me, as my page name may suggest. True crime is my primary interest, not only because it provides valuable insight into the criminal mindset, which I think helps me stay safe, but also because it teaches me so much about the darker side of life in general. A second fascination of mine is extreme mountain climbing. People risk their lives to reach the summit, battling conditions that push the human body beyond its limits, all for a chance to trek into a forbidden place. 

Like many extreme mountain climbing enthusiasts, Mt. Everest has piqued my curiosity from afar. I've spent countless hours watching documentaries covering the coveted trek to the summit. It is mind-boggling to me that people endure all things meant to kill them all for a shot at saying they traveled to a forbidden place, one that is so dangerous and proven time and time again that it shows no mercy.

I struggle to stay upright on a skateboard for more than 10 seconds. Yet, people climb thousands of feet on a steep mountainside, crossing crevasses that can swallow them, all while dealing with a range of challenges, including altitude sickness, cliffs that could send them tumbling hundreds of feet with one wrong move, falling ice, and air so thin it messes with a person's breathing, coordination, and mental state. We can't forget the temperatures that can sink to -30C (-60 with wind chill), hurricane-like winds, and other severe weather conditions.

What is the motivation for climbing dangerous mountains? Climbers have many reasons for risking their lives to reach the top. For a large majority, motivation comes from the massive adrenaline rush experienced after conquering a “forbidden place.

Mt. Everest, while the most famous and well-documented, is one of many mountains that dare climbers to touch its peak. I recently learned about Lenin Peak and the 1990 incident that claimed the lives of 43 climbers. I want to share the story with my fellow ‘extreme’ enthusiasts.

Lenin Peak is the second-highest peak in the Tian Shan mountain range, standing at 7,134 meters. The peak lies on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in Central Asia. It is easily accessible, making it a popular destination for climbers from around the world. 

Like Mt. Everest, Lenin Peak challenges and pushes climbers with harsh weather, crevasses, avalanches, glaciers, and numerous other hazards.

On July 13, 1990, an earthquake struck Lenin Peak. With an intensity of 6.4 on the Richter scale, it barely shook the ground. Climbers felt nothing. Yet the quiet rumble beneath the mountain caused a block of serac (ice) to detach and fall. The serac formed into an avalanche that struck Camp II.  

Forty-five climbers had their sights set on reaching the peak. Those individuals had reached camp II - at an elevation of 5,300 feet - and were resting and preparing for the next leg of the trek up the mountain when the avalanche hit. Forty-three people died, buried under a massive 20 feet of ice and snow. Rescue attempts failed because the debris formed into glacier ice, making it impossible to free anyone. 

The two survivors heard at least one of their fellow climbers pleading for help from beneath the rubble. Yet, they were helpless and could not free the others from the ribble. Both sustained a broken leg and broken arm, which perhaps intensified the remorse, guilt, and shame often felt by survivors.

Only one body has been recovered in the more than 35 years since the tragedy. Their families didn't get a chance to say goodbye or give them a proper burial, which I would imagine tremendously intensifies the pain of their losses.

Mountain climbing is dangerous. Every climber who sets their sight on reaching the peak understands that so many things can go wrong; this trip may very well be their last.  But for those who find happiness in exploring things beyond reach for the average person, it’s a risk worth taking.