Karachi Chronicles Chapter 3

Playing on a number of high quality grounds was one of the most appealing aspects of this tour. Combined with the unique nature of Pakistani pitches, this was definitely the experience of a lifetime material. Including our warm up matches, we played across five different fields. Some more than a century old, and all with unique characteristics.

Our first two warm up matches were held at the National Bank Stadium Complex. These were on the practice field, located directly out the front of the main Karachi Stadium. Playing in the shadow of the fabled stadium, knowing how many legends of the game had stood here over the years, there was a special vibe in the air. Travelling to famous locations is always a buzz because you can grasp the particular nuances of a place when witnessing them first hand.

On arrival, you travelled through huge gates and down a median striped road before pulling up right in front of the main stadium. Hopping out of the bus, facing away from the stadium and looking in a southerly direction, the view was dominated by a freeway overpass. Flowing across this panorama was an endless convoy consisting of colourful buses, motorbikes and trucks, often with people hanging from the roof.

Hidden amongst the chaos and prestidge this field could have easily been overlooked. Surrounded mostly by a cinder block fence, if not for the stadium, freeway or adjacent Pakistan Cricket Board building, it could have been mistaken for a suburban ground back home. Out in the middle though, one glance at the earthen pitch, basically devoid of any grass cover confirmed we weren’t close to home anymore.

Just to add further to the atmosphere, we were sat under these beautiful white cabanas. Not only were these structures handy for blocking out the scorching sun, but the design screamed of elegance. Made from solid materials, these beautiful constructions were clearly crafted with care. It’s hard to articulate, however the design looked so at home in this part of the world. Although a very minor detail, this local vibe was just the cherry on top.

Over towards the west, past long on, was an area where the ground staff would patiently watch along and offer up conversation when time permitted. Just beyond this vantage point and out through a gate, there was a grape vine entwined through a besser block fence. Seemingly clinging to the white wall in an awkward embrace, it served as a metaphor for the resilience of cricket in this country. Strongly evoking an 80s era vibe, it will forever be a visceral image singed into my brain.

As the location of my first wickets and runs for the country, I will always have a strong connection to this ground. Additionally, we had the absolute pleasure of participating in the Karachi girls cup here. This is an annual event for disadvantaged girls, funded by the Australian Consulate. It was also the location for an iconic photo of our vice captain, Tim Bott, who was captured strutting around the outfield half naked. In his defence, even though we found it amusing, he’d just come in from a solid knock and was desperately trying to cool off.

Botty, as he’s known, is a proud Western Australian. He was an absolute legend to go on tour with and I feel, ideologically, we were on a similar wavelength. His main role in the team was as a middle order batsman, usually coming in at number five. He also managed the impressive feat of staying on the field for every over we bowled during the tour. Beyond this, he contributed further, by bowling some handy medium pace and picking up a few wickets to round out a successful tour. Botty was also instrumental in keeping the vibes high at all times. Even going to such lengths as sourcing a guitar through the local channels, then serenading us after the final game.

For the first game of the actual tournament, we started at the Karachi Gymkhana, against West Indies. Founded in 1886, for most of the twentieth century, this ground played host to first class cricket. Located right next to our accommodation, we had a bird’s eye view from the top floor of the PC Hotel. It was a hard dusty surface, surrounded by a spongy walking track, with a typical grass-free square out in the middle. Nicely air-conditioned change rooms, with huge glass viewing areas sat right near the long off/fine leg boundary. Capping it off, there was also a gently tiered, outdoor seating area that contained armchairs and ceiling fans.

Beyond these creature comforts, there are no doubts that this was still a tough place to play. With a lightning fast outfield, anything hit through the infield raced to the boundary. It also seemed to cop the brunt of the sun throughout the entire day. This made for a hot, dusty and fairly uncomfortable time out in the field. As a pace bowler, it got even tougher with a hard clay wicket, devoid of any grass cover. Not to sound negative, but it can be best described as a batsman’s paradise, where you are probably better off employing spin to do the damage on most occasions.

Game two was played at the Moin Khan Academy complex. Located at the very end of a peninsular, within a suburb called the Defence Housing Authority. From what I saw on the drive there, it appeared to be a rapidly developing, upper-class area. Unlike most of the city we had seen before this, there was plenty of vacant land. Still expanding, this area was an interesting mix of empty lots, shells of half finish construction and fortified luxury mansions. As for the ground itself, it was surrounded by high rise buildings to the south and east and a shopping mall with a cinema to the west.

Facilities at the ground consisted of a four storey pavilion with a restaurant, dressing rooms, commentary box and roof viewing platform. Basically it was unlike any of the grounds I play on at home. Well considering my home field doesn’t even have a permanent shelter, beyond the roller shed, I guess any facilities would meet this description. On the western boundary, there was also a huge grandstand that could hold hundreds spectators. Beyond the northern boundary, there was a training complex, futsal courts and some sport shops that were frequented by locals.

Rounding it out, at both ends there were high rise camera towers for top class match coverage. Besides the armed guards on top, these structures reminded me of the diving towers we used to session while staying in Grafton on junior cricket trips in the 90s. Outside the main stadium, this was also one of the only grounds equiped with high quality lighting. Making the most of these huge floodlights, all of the games at this location were scheduled as day/night fixtures.

Next up, was the grandest location for the trip, National Bank Stadium. This is the main test ground in Karachi and has been the host of many historic achievements over the decades. Examples include Viv Richard’s 181 during the 1987 World Cup, Imran Khan’s eight wicket haul against India in 1982 and Younis Khan’s triple century against Sri Lanka in 2009. It is also known as the “fortress of Pakistan,” as Pakistan did not lose a test here between the years of 1955 and 2000. Uniquely, after Eisenhower watched a day’s play between Pakistan and Australia in 1959, it purportedly has the distinction of being the only cricket ground in history to host a sitting American President during a match.

Needless to say, for any cricketer, playing on such a quality ground is a dream come true. In addition to being a venue steeped in history, the facilities are elite. Arriving in the change rooms I spent a while fawning over the expansive viewing area, complete with live television coverage of the game, before hurrying out to the middle. Passing down the two large flights of stairs, crossing the cobbled floor and skirting around the sight screen, it was quite the journey. Finally reaching the playing area, I was engulfed by the fourteen brightly coloured enclosures circling the ground. On approach to the pitch, I could see a pit behind the stumps where all the wires went for the stump cam. In awe, all I could do was shake my head in disbelief and somehow try to focus on the game.

Before heading back to peruse the away sheds, that had hosted so many cricket icons over the years, I quickly snapped a few photos of my home club's hat next to the pitch. Underneath I was also wearing my club budgie smugglers, hoping to spiritually share the ride with all my club mates back home. Later, I also managed to give them a shout out when I was interviewed on live TV, while waiting for my chance to bat at number eleven. For me, this ticked all the boxes and anything that happened on the trip after this was really just a bonus. Playing on a test ground was on the bucket list and getting to do it in a cricketing mad nation like Pakistan made it even sweeter.

Fifth and final of the grounds we had the privilege to utilise was the NBP Sports Complex. Located in Clifton, yet another beautiful facility welcomed us, with an amazing view out to the South of Karachi. Once again, sporting fantastic change rooms for viewing, with large sliding windows on the second storey looking right over the ground. It also proved to be a happy hunting ground for us, with three victories from three games. Most satisfying, was beating USA in our final tour game to end up finishing third in the Global Cup.

Playing against Hong Kong on our first trip to this ground, I witnessed yet another example of amazing kindness from the locals. Early in the day, I noticed a large hawk stuck way up in the net surrounding the complex. It was wrapped so tightly in the loose cloth netting, similar to a soccer goal but finer, that I thought its chances of survival were nil. To make matters worse, this netting was protruding from the top of a three metre high fence that was only about two bricks wide. Trapped upside down and inaccessible, I felt sadness that this beautiful creature would end its days with such a slow, uncomfortable death.

Around an hour later, I ran into a few of the grounds staff and pointed out the bird. They said they would try something but, like myself, didn’t hold much hope for the bird’s survival. At first they took my Swiss Army knife, strapped it to a long pole and tried to cut it free. When that didn’t work, they stepped up to a large saw on the end of the huge pole. Once again, this was fruitless, so I returned to my duty of carrying the drinks. At least I felt content that the lads had given freeing the poor creature a good crack. They’d done more than I think a lot of people would have done and I was certainly impressed with their efforts.

Continuing about my duties, thankfully, I didn’t have much time to dwell on the fate of the powerful hawk. However, later on I was not only reminded of this majestic beast, but my faith in humanity was also confirmed. During a break in play, I glanced around the back of the pavilion and saw an incredible sight. Two ground staff were steadying a huge, rickety ladder that reached up to two more ground staff who were perched atop the narrow brick wall. There, they were somehow balancing while holding the ladder on their shoulders. Finally, like an acrobat out of the Cirque Du Soleil, another was precariously poised on the end of the five metre ladder. Up there, swinging wildly at the mercy of the flimsy netting and his mates, he hacked around the tangled mess of feathers, talons and fibre.

Eventually, after a few close calls and a shoulder injury, the imposing bird of prey soared off into the sky. When the boys got back down safely, I thanked them for their mercy and kindness. They were exhausted but the battle had been worthy. For me it was not only another demonstration of the local hospitality but also a fantastic example of how there are great people no matter where you go. There wouldn’t be such great facilities in Pakistan if there weren’t great people to produce and maintain them. Needless to say, the quality of our treatment throughout the tour was just as high as the quality of the grounds.