Karachi Chronicles Chapter 11

As visiting international cricketers, we were kept under a high level of security. This meant we weren’t able to freely cruise the streets in our downtime. Although our main focus was playing cricket and recovering, the thought of being confined to the hotel complex was an interesting situation. Working with our conditions, our gracious hosts made sure we still got to attend multiple functions and rub shoulders with a host of influential people. 

First of these forays out into the wider Karachi area, was to the Opening Ceremony. Held at the Governor of Sindh Province’s residence, although just around the block from our hotel, it still got us out and about. This was also our first opportunity to don the blazer and tie. After getting dressed up, our convoy fought the evening traffic and crawled around the block. Upon arrival to the huge palatial residence, we entered through the sponsor’s archway and proceeded down the red carpet. It felt like something straight out of the entertainment industry and no doubt unfamiliar territory for most of us.

Once in the courtyard, I was blown away by the size of the event and the level of planning. I wasn’t expecting it to be like a night back at the bowling club after a game but being involved in such an event was hard to fathom. There were coloured lights everywhere illuminating up a spectacular stage that was erected on the steps in the Governor’s backyard. After speeches from the tournament organiser, Fawad, and the Governor, more festivities followed. All the captains got on stage and cut the ribbon, which unleashed a ten minute fireworks display. This was followed up by dinner, dancing and mingling.

Disappointingly, I didn’t manage to shake the Governor’s hand, not the end of the world but it would have added to just how ridiculous my situation had become. He was surrounded by one of the most elite security details imaginable, so there was no chance to push the boundaries just for a laugh. It was also my first taste of the Nepalese team’s amazing spirit. At one stage, they were dancing in a huge circle, everyone moving to the tradition Pakistani grooves and just loving life in general. Although I didn’t quite have the courage, or skill, to mess it up in a dance off with the Nepalese, I did manage to meet a few legends of the game. Most exciting, was getting to briefly chat with the iconic Javid Miandad and a Moin Khan sighting.

Even though we spent the majority of our days on the field, we did swing the odd daytime outing as well. On one of the earlier rest days, a trip to a local beach was organised. It was decided as a group that we would not partake in this trip as we were still acclimatising to the conditions and were already fairly depleted from the games so far. Personally, I wasn’t completely devastated because we have some amazing beaches in Ballina. In hindsight, this was also the only time I broke from my game plan of attending anything that they offered up. I was however disappointed that our trip to the UNESCO Heritage listed Makli Necropolis was cancelled later in the trip. No doubt the logistics of this trip were a little too complex when considering our security situation, so maybe next time.

Most of our extracurricular trips were prearranged with a security protocol. Obviously rigorous and preplanned, it made last minute itinerary changes almost impossible. On one evening there was a break from this protocol, and it led to an interesting serious of events. We had the option to attend a function at the super exclusive Sind Club of Karachi. This members only club, started in 1871, and is one of the oldest in Pakistan. Accordingly, it has very strict rules, regulations and traditions, much like the bigger, cooler older brother of a private golf club. Even though it isn’t my kind of scene, I was still keen to check it out.

Being an optional event, approximately two thirds of our squad headed down to meet the bus at the scheduled pick-up time in the lobby. As usual this was delayed, which wasn’t out of the usual considering our security protocol. Occasionally we’d joke about being on “Fiji Time” but, in reality, fully appreciated the logistics involved in hosting us. However, things were a bit different on this occasion, as news filtered through that our reservation to the Sind Club had been cancelled at the last minute. Apparently, someone had printed out formal invitations for the function, which is against the Sind Club’s strict rules. Once they got word of the invitations, the club immediately cancelled our booking.

This was enough for a few of the blokes, who headed back up to their rooms for a well-earned rest. We were assured other arrangements would be made, so I operated on the theory of I’ll never be here again so I’ll see where it takes us. That was the personal rule I was referring to when I turned down the day trip to the beach earlier on. It was probably the only chance I would get to experience Pakistan and I was going to make the most of it. Eventually, after milling about for another hour or so, we finally headed out into the night via military convoy. Two minibuses, or coasters as they are called in Pakistan, off to whereabouts, unknown!

After traversing the downtown area and heading through the now semi familiar Defence Housing Authority neighbourhood, we arrived at a nondescript street. Military had cleared the whole block and we briefly stepped out into the humid night air that seemed to envelop you like a sheet. This scene was so visceral, the moment my foot met the dusty pavement in a Karachi backstreet still rolls through my head like a movie. Within seconds, we entered through a large gate, complete with a terracotta tiled arch, into a scene that wouldn’t have looked out of place in Latin America. We were greeted by a courtyard brimming with round tables, draped in white linen and a full buffet with an entourage of wait staff to boot.

Before there was much of a chance to take the scene in, we were summoned into the residence, which was standing at the end of a large driveway covered in Persian rugs. Upon entering we were greeted by the host and led to a well stocked bar. Rest assured that our drinks were never empty due to the warm hospitality of the wait staff. Along with another great session alongside the Nepalese team, we had a few with Rudy from team USA and to my surprise the American Consulate General. Leaving the event, we experienced yet another surreal moment, which I will cover in a later chapter talking a little about our security during the tour. 

Another notable evening, was a visit to the Chaupal Buffet Restaurant. This eatery was located on the beachfront down in the Defense Housing Suburb. Fitted out with amazing decor, it was expansive and modern. Many different seating areas fed out from a central area that contained a small stage, under an ornate tree wrapped in a string of lights. Inside at the buffet there was an incredible spread of both western and local fare, with basically any kind of food you could have imagined.

Located on the coastline, I was keen to suss out the beach but couldn’t see through the glary glass looking out into the night. After asking a waiter for a better look, I was escorted up to a section that was under construction but afforded a view down to the dark beach below. I was surprised that, even though it was night-time, there wasn’t a person in sight. I’d watched enough YouTube clips to know this area is usually teaming with all manner of people. I asked my chaperone why and he responded, “can you see those torch lights?” Peering off a few hundred metres down the promenade, I could see some lights moving around the silhouette of what I presume was a beach shed. He continued, “the army has cleared a perimeter for your safety, that’s why no one is on the beach between here and there.”

Heading back down stairs my head was swirling with mixed emotions. On one hand I was very appreciative that they were going over the top to make sure nothing happened to us. On the other, I felt a little guilty reflecting on how much we displaced and probably inconvenienced some of the locals during our stay. I would assert that us taking international cricket to Pakistan and having so many positive interactions with the locals made this a fair compromise but it still resonated with me a bit. Reloading my glass, I went and sat with the Nepalese guys and tried to push it out of my head for a while.

It didn’t take long for my mind to be snapped back into the here and now. Out on the main floor, some of the Pakistan team were in the midst of a heated karaoke session. Although I missed it, I was informed that Dicko Bogarted the mic at one point and belted out a few tunes to get the party started. Dicko, formally know as Chris Dickson, is from the Newcastle region of NSW. He was the only previously capped member of the squad, having toured New Zealand earlier that year. Primarily a pace bowler, he lead the attack, where he often grabbed an early pole. Beyond this, he also contributed some handy lower order runs when called upon. We had a fun partnership when we first played Pakistan in the National Bank stadium, putting on thirty odd runs together for the last wicket.

Towards the end of our trip, we had a dinner with the Mayor of Karachi in the park outside the landmark Frere Hall. We were still fenced off and surrounded by security but it was great to see one of Karachi’s more famous buildings. Built in 1865, during the British Colonial era, the yellow limestone building now serves as an art gallery. After dinner we had a look through the current exhibition that was on display. Upon entry to the hall, most striking was the mural painted on the ceiling. Painted by Sadequain Naqqash, this impressive artwork was dedicated to the citizens of Karachi. Unfortunately, Sadequain passed away before completing the whole ceiling. For me, it invoked a very similar feeling to when I stood in front of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper in Milan. Not that I am an art critic, but the empty space next to each of these masterpieces seems to add to their mystique.

Visiting Frere Hall, in regards to sightseeing, was probably the most touristy thing we managed to do during the trip. With playing cricket as our main objective and our spontaneity confined by the security detail, it was cool to squeeze a little bit in. My one regret was not getting to visit a few more of the spectacular buildings Karachi has to offer. I would have loved to see the white marble of Mazar-e-Quaid or the brilliant mosaices of Shah Jahan Mosque with my own eyes. However, missing a couple of famous landmarks was a small price to pay for actually visiting such an exciting destination and making so many great memories out and about with a bunch of awesome people.