Our Journey Through the Forbidden Kingdom: An Upper Mustang Diary

Located at a height in the Himalayas above 4,000 meters, Upper Mustang also known as The Kingdom of Lo, was isolated and restricted to access until 1992.

Although the area resembles a desert environment, it has ancient monasteries and a living culture of Tibetan Buddhism that is not impacted by modern influences. What trekkers find intriguing is the mystique of being one of the last places of Tibetan culture outside of Tibet that had once been an independent kingdom, and trade heart between India and Tibet.

This hidden part of the Himalayas is visited for many reasons including cultural curiosity, adventure, and an element of spirituality. Trekkers will witness different unique customs, stunning landscapes, and interactions of Tibetan Buddhism and the pre-Buddhist spiritual practices of Bon. Additionally, the rich history, spirituality, and intersections of nature make the old monasteries and cliff-hanging towns alluring, which have not changed in hundreds of years.

Travelers of all kinds can visit this place via trekking, jeep tour or motorbike. Upper mustang motorbike tour is also an unique adventure to get in to this region. Adventure, spiritual exploration, and a historical interest were the motivators for many of the participants in this journey. Every person brought a unique insight, contributing to the richness of group experience, and understanding of this amazing domain. Overall, the Upper Mustang tour can be physically demanding, as well as, enlightening in terms of cultural and personal information.

Preparing for the Adventure

Before embarking Upper Mustang journey, travelers need to obtain a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). The RAP is required for all foreign travel due to the sensitive cultural and environmental nature of the area. The RAP will cost around 500 USD per person for the first 10 days and will be an additional 50 dollars for each additional day thereafter. The RAP can be obtained through a registered trekking agency or licensed guide. Additionally, travelers need an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), if they are trekking through the Annapurna region.

The best time to visit Upper Mustang is in spring and autumn when the weather gets clear with moderate to warm temperatures. These months have the least amount of rainfall, the best trekking weather, and a view of the Himalayan landscape. Winter months are too cold and harsh and the tropical monsoon season can create heavy amounts of rain which can sometimes make trekking difficult.

For upper Mustang high-altitude desert trekking, you'll want to pack gear to insulate you from temperature changes like layered clothing, good trekking boots, sun-protection items, and a good quality sleeping bag for cold nights. You'll also want to plan for your hydration, bring a first-aid kit, altitude sickness medication, and light but warm layers for a dry and windy climate at high elevation.

Entering the Kingdom: From Pokhara to Lo Manthang

The adventure started with an exciting flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, where the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Mountain Ranges hovered ahead like silent elephants. The tiny plane rumbled through the mountain winds, revealing deep valleys below. Upon landing in Jomsom, trekkers can see turbulent skies that are surrounded by dry, crisp air and rugged mountains.

As the traveler continued the trek through Kali Gandaki Valley, the valleys expanded with rugged hills and tinted cliffs. The Kali Gandaki River is the world's deepest river and it has carved out tremendous crags and gorges in this valley. The valley is also a dry desert-like region evident in the red and orange rock formations. The contrast between the edifice of the deserted cliffs and the distant snow-capped mountains is exhilarating and foreshadows the adventure.

Just beyond Kagbeni, the landscape morphed into a desert-like expanse—a horizon dotted with wind-sculpted climate cliffs and caves. This old village is the meeting point of rivers, the last place to stay before the restricted kingdom. Its Tibetan-style architecture and local life are evidence of the preserved culture of the Forbidden Kingdom and increased our anticipation of how it would feel to travel deeper into Upper Mustang.

The Hidden Treasures of Upper Mustang

Ancient Cave Dwellings and Monasteries

The sky caves of Chhoser, located in Upper Mustang are enigmatic prehistoric structures dug into the cliff face. The caves were first utilized as burial sites roughly over 2,000 years ago and later served as sanctuaries and meditative spaces. Their spiritual significance, combined with their inaccessibility, along with traces of associated Tibetan sky burial practices gives an incredible insight into the region's distant past and its culture.

The age-old monasteries in Upper Mustang such as Lo Gekar and Thubchen Gompa are outstanding stewards of Tibetan religious practices. Both Lo Gekar and Thubchen Gompa are vital pilgrim destinations that allow anyone to experience the practices of Tibetan Buddhist life. Lo Gekar is rich in religious significance, while Thubchen Gompa is filled with beautiful murals and artifacts. In addition to being functioning houses of worship, these monasteries introduce tourists to the area's rich religious history and age-old customs.

The Walled City of Lo Manthang

Exploring the medieval streets of the royal capital is like being inside a living museum. Lo Manthang, which was constructed in the 15th century, is surrounded by a 6-meter-high earthen wall with 14 ladders. The narrow alleys and traditional Tibetan-style houses maintain the ancient feel of the city and preserve its cultural heritage.

Meeting with the local people provides an exceptional chance to understand their traditions influenced by Tibetan culture and their Buddhist practices. The hospitality of the Loba community is at its best during lively festivals and reflects their lifestyle, which has hardly changed in centuries. The king's former palace, a functioning five-story mud, and stone building is a part of the royal heritage where you will find ancient manuscripts and religious relics.

The Barren Beauty of Mustang’s Landscapes

The vivid red cliffs, washouts of canyons, and desert-like expanse surrounding Upper Mustang present an impressive, alien landscape that goes well beyond its barren surroundings. The rough beauty of this topography is in stark contrast to the rich cultural life within the walls of Lo Manthang.

Both pilgrims and locals find enormous spiritual significance in the sacred place of Damodar Kund. The lake, only accessible by a pilgrimage through the rugged terrain, is a site for ritual purification and devotion. This enhances the natural beauty of Mustang's terrain by adding a profound spiritual dimension.

Challenges & Surprises Along the Way

High-altitude adaptability in the Upper Mustang can be difficult because trekkers enter in thin air. With the weather instantly shifting from hot sun to cold gusty snowy winds, high-altitude adaptability required a lot of effort. Travelers may struggle to keep their pace and stay hydrated. It was crucial to be cautious to quickly acclimate and appreciate the breathtaking yet erratic mountain conditions.

Spontaneous cultural interactions added richness to the experience. Travelers will have the fortune of sharing in vibrant local festivals, rich in traditional rhythms, music, and dance. Additionally, travelers can get a peek at the Loba people's constant way of life through their hospitality and compassion.

The upper Mustang represented the duality between isolation and connection. The isolation of this remote region allowed for a remarkable sense of solitude and raw beauty. The connections with other tourists and friendly locals created a warm sense of community, which allowed for deep reflection but also social bonding.

Reflections: Why Upper Mustang Stays With You

Getting to Upper Mustang almost feels like travelers have transported themselves hundreds of years back in time. Old customs, untouched landscapes, and a leisurely pace evoke an almost dream-like quality. The medieval towns and sacred areas have remained relatively intact and offer perspectives of an immense time when good travel was reasonably static over time and place.

The spiritual and emotional presence of Upper Mustang can be striking with beautiful monasteries, immense desert landscape, and friendly locals, there is plenty of space for contemplation - allowing you to envelop yourself in the culture. This trek leaves you with a sense of tranquility and humility that is fully entrenched in your heart and mind.

Sustainable tourism is important in perpetuating Upper Mustang's delicate environment and unique culture. Community participation, responsible travel practices, and visitation with respect contribute to the preservation of this unique kingdom for future generations. Supporting the livelihoods of residents, while reducing ecological impacts will ensure that the magic of Upper Mustang is preserved and will remain to be experienced.

Conclusion

A journey through the Upper Mustang - Forbidden Kingdom is an incredible experience, where adventure, culture, and spirituality collide. From ancient caves to colorful monasteries and the timeless walled city of Lo Manthang, the exceptional history and beautiful landscape inspired and humbled the visitors at every turn.

This experience highlighted the need for sustainable tourism in Upper Mustang and the protection of its fragile environment and traditions. The memories and lessons travelers learned during this trip are something that will cherish forever and will always treasure the experience of being in remote places where history, culture, and nature coexist in a meaningful way.