Escape to Mexico Part 6: Yoga, Bike Rides and Navigating Without Signal

Having been exhausted the night before I nodded off early and woke before dawn, suffering from terrible allergies. I couldn’t stop sneezing and sniffling. Luckily I had brought some allergy medication with me and having spent time tossing and turning decided to head out and give L some respite from the involuntary disturbance whilst getting some fresh air.

The beach was so serene, I felt it’s calm wash over me with the breeze and headed upstairs to that rocky outcrop the iguana had occupied the day before to watch the sunrise. It was truly majestic, to bask in that singular moment of complete quiet and solitude. I observed my limbs in the soft dawn light. They were still pale, like an uncooked biscuit, I hoped I’d catch some sun today. Now refreshed, awake and serene, I headed back down to get ready with L for one of the complimentary yoga classes offered at the resort.

Back we trekked to the top of the small cliff and the decking now slowly being bathed in morning light. The instructor who greeted us had a wonderful aura of calm and warmth about her. We picked up our mats and foam squares, finding spots on the decking one step below where we could see the instructor clearly and hopefully catch a bit of the morning sun. The moves flowed through from simpler to more complex. I loved the vitality I felt through my body with the movement of muscles perhaps underused so far.

The full effect was dampened somewhat by what soon became one major drawback of our stay. The thunderous construction works that seemed to begin early on many a morning. It vibrated through us as we tried to balance. One of the participants was called upon to play his flute with the aim of creating a more serene backdrop. The melody was beautiful, but it was a bit like mending a crack in the wall with duct tape. I tried to fix my mind on the music, the movements and the sound of the ocean, treated it as a meditative practise.

It was a great start to the day, optimistically we said we'd likely return for another class on the Saturday. Over optimistically. as that would not come to pass. After a bit of beach side frolicking, L was keen to head into town and explore the fancy looking cafes and shops we’d passed on our way here, so we enquired at reception about hiring bikes. It was 250 pesos to hire them for 24 hours, a bit steep when we found out that bike hire at other hotels was free.

Regardless, it would be far cheaper than a taxi so we went for it. They weren’t the best of bikes with no clear breaks (turns out that would be achieved with a back pedal). But they were sturdy and each had a plastic basket attached to the front so that we didn’t need to carry things or bring a backpack. With one of them, the seat was stuck and couldn’t be adjusted. As L is far shorter, I took that one. It stretched me out to get on and made for slightly uncomfortable riding, but I soon got used to it.

I hadn’t ridden a bike in a year and zipping past the jungle foliage on that long, glowing dirt road was truly exhilarating. We didn’t have signal outside our wifi spots, so L had screenshotted the google map directions. Frankly this trip showcased her excellent navigational skills like I’d never seen from her before. We explored a high street with a couple quiet looking shops and stopped at a vegan café, Eatatliefs.

As we perused the menu we realised that the refined, grey-haired gentleman who had just vacated a table nearby, was one of the owners. It seemed that a lot of people from abroad had set up shop in Tulum. I’d been craving an acai bowl since Isla Mujeres so that swayed my decision but though tasty, I have to admit it couldn't compete with the one on the Isla. That being said, the café itself was comfortable and aesthetically pleasing and L’s waffles did look divine.

We used the wifi to get directions to the vape shop I’d been wanting to visit as I had run out. I screenshotted it, but as this trip made clear, the navigator role was not one I could claim. I was sure we were going in the right direction…Or was I? Poor L. We were stopped by an American who saw the confused looks on our faces and hoped to come to our rescue. We’ll call him the recruiter. As he gave me his phone to try to figure out where we were going, L and him got chatting. He worked for a recruitment agency and had decided to take some time to travel and work remotely here in Tulum, like he informed us many Americans had chosen to. L and he exchanged contact details, it was a good idea to have people who knew the area to offer advice.

We found the vape shop in the end, which seemed a lot smaller than the pictures though apparently a little bit famous in the area. As we walked down the road we noticed a couple people selling excursions and L had us stop by the more professional one complete with brochures and ipads (the ones with worn photographs as signs seemed less reliable). L had been keen to visit Chichen Itza, one of the seven wonders of the world and I agreed that though a long journey, it was something we definitely needed to see.

The package we looked at included the tour of Chichen Itza itself, an opportunity to swim in one of the famed Cenotes (a sort of open topped cave with a fresh water pool at the bottom) and a visit to Valladolid, a nearby colonial town. A hot meal was also included in the deal. It was expensive but reasonable when we considered everything included, about £60 each. We were unlikely to do any other excursions and as L rightly stated, when would we find ourselves in Mexico again? We went for it. They would be picking us up early the next day. We grabbed an ice cream and headed back on our bikes.

After relaxing for a bit by the beach we came to decide our plans for dinne. The recruiter had suggested a great, authentic and ceviche specialised restaurant in downtown Tulum. He would meet us for a drink at his favourite local afterwards. The restaurant was called Negra Tomasa. It was in a fashionable looking area surrounded with beautiful looking shops, the air buzzing with the activity of people commencing their evening. It was full, a promising sign, and the waitress informed us it would be a 15 minute wait. She handed a remote to us which would buzz when the table was ready.

I was in a long dress that mimicked the ocean and felt like it truly matched the tropical beach vibes of the area. L and I darted into a nearby boutique that caught our eye. As with many of the shops in the area, it definitely had a mystic and spiritual vibe. Full of beautiful jewellery, assortments of gemstones and eclectic clothing. A pair of stunning hoop earrings caught my eye, the alternating blue stones matched my dress perfectly and it felt like fate. Purchases made, we headed back to claim our table.

We sat in a little corner, the only annoyance being the massive fan stood right next to us that threatened to make me eat my own hair with every rotation. The food looked colourful and fresh. Being by the ocean, it felt natural to sample the abundance of sea food on offer, there were many sashimi or ceviche style dishes as well as cooked street food style choices on offer. I found everything including the cocktails absolutely delicious and it was fairly priced too. Would highly recommend visiting if you find yourself in Tulum.

The restroom was unisex, something I’m not particularly used to though you do see it here and there in the UK. Upon going to wash my hands, I heard a voice behind me.

“You look like a movie star!”

I turned to see a large Mexican man in the entrance. I nervously thanked him, but it was the most comically uncomfortable timing and place for a compliment I’d ever received. No one wants to be complimented by a man in a toilet. L and I had a good laugh about it before heading off to enjoy the rest of our evening. We were told to walk down the main strip to find the recruiter friend there, but had no signal outside the restaurant. An abundance of shops lined the strip, but Tulum so far didn’t really seem the place for night life like Cancun is. It was fairly quiet, though as we were told, people didn’t start going out till quite late. That wasn’t an option for us with our trip the next day, and it hadn’t been the point of this trip to begin with so we were unfazed. It was supposed to be a trip that reset us.

With no signal, no way of contacting anyone or knowing precisely where we were, I was sceptical of finding the recruiter at all.

“Stop being a negative Nancy,” L chastised. “We’ll find him.”

I had my doubts. But somehow, lo and behold L was right, I was being a negative Nancy because somehow he appeared. We followed him through the town, winding past beautiful street art and bars hung with lights that gave an ethereal feel to the night. He told us a bit about his stay, that the digital nomad life here could be quite lonely. Friends he made were often travelling like ourselves and didn’t stay long.

We finally approached a pretty looking pub called La Gloria de Don Pepe that twinkled and beckoned to us like the foodhall in Spirited Away. There were multiple floors, and it felt like we trawled through them all before settling on the outside terrace. I was glad I hadn’t worn heels with so many climbs to navigat, though being above average height even in the Uk, I guess I’d always known I wouldn’t wear them in Mexico.

I had a few beers and here would recommend, if you wanted to try the local beer, to give "Victoria" a go, a refreshing choice. L stuck to cocktails. Children drifted between the tables, trying to sell little touristy bits like bracelets and fake flowers. It was an uncomfortable sight, in a pub so late in the evening, though apparently quite normal here. The recruiter made the same joke every time the little boy passed, saying he could only offer him beer. Unfazed, the boy maintained quite the persistent sales technique. He argued that he didn’t want the beer but that the pretty ladies deserved a bracelet. Recruiter was unswayed and the boy finally relented and went in search of better custom.

Whilst pleasant to visit these new parts of the town, we didn’t stay long. Firstly, in anticipation of our early start the next morning. Secondly, because whilst I struggled with a temperamental tap in the one toilet, the recruiter had revealed to L, in the most arrogant and entitled manner, that he was trying to hit on us both and was sad he had to pick. As if the choice was even on offer. We left him, politely of course, we are British after all. He was alone once again and, truth be told, seemed rather lost.

Another story for the holiday books closed. We headed straight to bed, tomorrow would be a long day.

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Stay tuned and follow along to see what Chichen Itza had in store as we dive into Part 7! Any hearts appreciated if you're enjoying my journey so far. Don't hesitate to let me know your thoughts in the comments as well as anything else you might like to see written about!

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Parts 1-5 if you missed them:

• Escape to Mexico: Part 1- The Curse to be Lifted
• Escape to Mexico: Part 2- Casa Nomis and Isla Mujeres
• Escape to Mexico Part 3: Papacito, Playa Norte and the Mariachi Band
• Escape to Mexico Part 4: Coco Bongo
• Escape to Mexico Part 5: Paradise and Diamante K Resort