Benidorm – A Sun-Drenched Comeback Story

Benidorm. The name alone brings back memories of sangria, sunshine, and the kind of youthful adventures that should probably have come with a warning label. I visited in 1977 — almost fifty years ago — when my days were filled with sunburnt optimism and my nights with activities I’ve since filed under “things I no longer bounce back from.”

Fast-forward to today: I’m 70, considerably wiser, and far less interested in waking up with a palm leaf in my pocket. I still enjoy sunshine, of course — but now I prefer my days to include good food, comfortable shoes, and experiences that don’t require a recovery plan.

And here’s the surprising part: Benidorm has grown up too. The wild 70s version put on a clean shirt, cut its hair, and discovered gastronomy.

Sure, you’ll still spot groups whose main cultural activity is consuming enough alcohol to forget their own room number. And yes, I sometimes walk past them in the evening and think: “Tomorrow morning will be significantly harder for you than for me, my friend.”

Because while they hit snooze for the 17th time, I’m already out enjoying another sunrise. I’ve been in their situation once or twice (or slightly more), and let me assure you — I do not miss it.

The Food — Oh yes, the food

This is Benidorm’s secret superpower.

The restaurants today are excellent — almost suspiciously so. During our full month in the city, we didn’t have a single bad meal. Not one. Whether it was fish, meat, or pasta, everything tasted fresh, homemade and reasonably priced.

We could have tried a new restaurant every day, but you know how it goes: you find a dish you love, you go back “just once more,” and suddenly the waiter greets you like an old friend. We also visited Denia and Alicante, and both delivered food so good it should come with fanfare. Honestly, the entire Costa Blanca could rebrand itself as “The Edible Coast.”

And if you want true adventure?

Hop on the tram. There are dozens of small villages along the route, each offering charming eateries that might just change your life — or at least your lunch plans.

So… what do you actually do in Benidorm?

For me, every day started early. I’d head out for a morning walk at around 7 AM — an hour before sunrise — wearing nothing but shorts, a T-shirt, and a faint sense of self-discipline. The temperature was perfect. I walked along Playa de Poniente for three or four kilometers before turning back.

My morning entertainment was simple but satisfying: admiring the giant skyscrapers towering above me. Some stretch past 40 floors. Impressive, yes — but personally, I consider anything higher than the second floor an act of bravery.

Sunrise to sunset: The two souls of Benidorm

Benidorm is really two cities hiding in one:

Playa de Levante – where the sun rises and the party never quite goes to bed.

This is the energetic, beach-umbrella jungle. Back in the day, we lay packed in the sand like sun-loving sardines, surrounded by radio music, suntan oil, and the eternal hope of achieving a golden tan. Today it’s Bluetooth speakers and selfie sticks — but the spirit is the same.

Playa de Poniente – calm, classic, and charmingly Spanish

Across the rocky divide, life moves at a gentler pace. Families stroll slowly. Elderly men in hats discuss important matters. Women shade themselves with elegant parasols. The air smells of coffee, sea salt and something delicious being grilled in a beach bar that never seems to hurry.

Old Town – the historic peacekeeper.

Between these two worlds lies the Old Town — a white-washed buffer zone that acts as Benidorm’s diplomatic guardian. Here, you can watch both sunrise and sunset without choosing sides. Neutral territory, perfect for indecisive travelers.

A place with something for everyone

Benidorm today is a buffet of possibilities:

Want to get healthier? The walks, swims and hills will gladly assist you.

Want to drink sangria from breakfast to bedtime? The city won’t stop you — though your liver might file a protest.

Prefer to sit at a café and watch the world pass by? Excellent choice. People-watching in Benidorm is a full-time sport.

Love architecture? The skyline looks like a group of skyscrapers got lost on their way to Dubai.

And if you ever tire of Benidorm — unlikely, but let’s pretend — just hop on the tram. Go west to Alicante or east to Denia. Or stop in any of the forty tiny coastal villages along the way and discover your new favorite place.

Benidorm may not be what it was in 1977.

Honestly, thank goodness for that.

Because what it has become might just be even better.

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