A Glorious Weekend In Cappadocia, Turkey

It was June 2022 and I had been in Turkey for a little over two months. After a great month in Istanbul, another in Izmir, and a week in Fethiye on the Mediterranean, I was finally heading for Cappadocia.

I booked a return bus ticket from Ankara to Ürgüp and two nights in a cave hotel. Most international tourists stay in the town of Göreme but my Turkish friends suggested I stay in Ürgüp instead, so I did.

Despite being late spring, the day was hot as I stepped off the bus after the three-and-a-half-hour ride to Nevşehir. I looked down at my phone as I pulled up Google Maps and typed in the address of the hotel. Not too far, by the looks of things, I thought. It was definitely walkable, which was my preference to overpriced taxis.

The Efendi Cave Hotel was quaint and located up a slight hill. I'd been up since before 6 a.m. to catch the train and bus to my destination, so I was quite exhausted, the heat packing a punch to my fatigue.

Entering the cave-like hotel room was enchanting. I wandered slowly through the bedroom and into the bathroom, loving the textured walls and exquisite touches. The spa bath looked extremely inviting, but I needed to get some food in my stomach so I headed back out into the town.

Wandering into a local restaurant, I ordered a steaming dish of vegetables, salad, and fresh bread. The pan came sizzling to the table and I cleaned my plate, scooping every single bite into my grateful stomach as I took in eyefuls of the view. An exquisite rock formation loomed large over the town, looking down over people as they wandered around below, shopping and searching for restaurants.

I had a hot air balloon ride scheduled for the next morning and had to be up at 4 a.m., so I ambled back to the hotel, belly full, to make use of the spa bath and get an early night.

Slightly bleary-eyed, I was ready and waiting when the shuttle bus arrived to take me to the launch site. The driver informed me that high winds were forecast and take-off was looking doubtful. After an hour of waiting around, we were informed that we couldn't go up that morning and I was dropped back off at the hotel a little disappointed. The hot air balloon ride was the main reason I was visiting the region but I also knew the risk.

I downed another cup of coffee as I texted the hotel staff to see if they could get me on the next morning's schedule. As I ate some breakfast, they said they would try.

I had also arranged a sunset horse ride through the stone chimneys but it wasn't until the evening so I set off to check out some areas of interest in the charming little town. I wandered up to the Kayakapı Neighbourhood, one of the first settlement zones in Ürgüp. Formed by hundreds of caves and historical structures, it is supported by UNESCO and the World Heritage Center. Unfortunately for me, it was under construction but offered a wonderful view of the town.

Temenni Tepesi, or Wish Hill, was next on my list, both for the incredible view and the historic terrace house museum located nearby. As I wandered the perimeter taking in the sight, I made a wish of my own, closing my eyes for a moment as I sent it out into the vast universe.

For only 5 Turkish Lira, about 15 American cents, I was able to wander with abandon through the beautifully restored rooms. Sofas and a crib adorned the living room as well as a carpet-making bench. I stared in awe at the rudimentary furniture in the dwelling, a far cry from what we have in our houses today.

The Barn Room is the house's most valuable room as it can maintain a constant temperature, allowing food and animals to be stored there without the constant heat ruining either. I found a gorgeous old radio in the sparsely decorated Bride Room, which looked out at an amazing view of Mount Erciyes' snowy peak in the winter.

Time was running down and I was beginning to fatigue from the heat, the early morning start having an effect on me. I headed back to the hotel for a couple of hours rest before another shuttle arrived to take me to a ranch about twenty minutes from the town.

Oh joy! Horses!

I sprang into the saddle of a speckled white mare and set off behind the tour leader.

The ride was two-and-a-half hours which was more than I was expecting, making me extremely happy. We were guided through many of Cappadocia's gorgeous valleys, including Stone Valley, Sword Valley, and Rose Valley. The sound of the 20-year-old mare's hooves plodding along gently combined with the beauty of the region made the ride memorable.

We rested for a few minutes so the horses could get a bite to eat and we could explore a cave, and then we were off again into the sunset. Wandering through a nearby town, I noticed that other horse enthusiasts had stopped for a drink or two and the scene made me smile.

My old gal wanted more to eat and kept trying her luck at grabbing some grass on either side of the trail as we went. If it had been up to me, I would have let her graze as much as she wanted but my guide seemed determined to pull her up and keep going.

The sun dropped lower and lower, the glow making the scenery even more spectacular. Through waving green fields and paths surrounded by stone mammoths, we plodded along until we were back at the ranch and I had to say goodbye to the gorgeous mare. I whispered a thank you and gave her a kiss before dragging my tired body back into the shuttle.

We reached the hotel around 8:30 p.m. and although I was exhilarated from my day, I was also exhausted as I sunk into another deep bath. The staff had contacted me earlier to let me know that they were unable to get me on a balloon ride the next morning and despite my sadness over not being able to tick the item off my bucket list, I had accepted my fate and settled into bed with a movie.

Around 9:30 p.m., my phone rang. It was my host calling to let me know that she had managed to get me on a balloon ride at the last minute and the shuttle would collect me at 4 a.m. the following morning. Delighted, I thanked her profusely and turned out the light. I needed to get some sleep if I was to be up before dawn once more.

Again, I was informed that the wind (and this time the rain) may put a stop to my skyward journey. Fortunately, Mother Nature calmed everything down long enough for the balloon ride to go ahead. Loaded into the basket next to a Spanish couple who didn't understand a word of English, I used my broken Spanish skills to translate the instructions being laid out by the captain.

And then we were up, up and away, soaring above the fairy chimneys and the beautifully barren landscape. It felt surreal up there as a sense of calm descended on us. Excited squeals and the occasional phone conversation pierced the air as the intense quiet was broken, but a general feeling of peace was felt above it all.

I stared in awe at the landscape, unable to comprehend in that moment how truly lucky I was. I was witnessing something that only a small percentage of the earth's population had seen before.

All good things must come to an end though, and as we crouched down, our legs aching, we braced for landing. My spectacular bucket list expedition was over after an hour suspended above the ancient land. Champagne flowed as we were handed certificates as proof of our once-in-a-lifetime journey.

Soaring over the expanses of soft volcanic rock shaped by erosion into towers, cones, valleys, and caves, was an experience I won't forget any time soon.

Making my way to the bus terminal at midday, I took a final look at Ürgüp, hoping I would find my way back there again one day.

Please feel free to watch the video for more of the scenery.

Please feel free to buy me a coffee if you like what you read.