Borshch and Beyond

In the bustling heart of Kyiv, amid the eerie calm between sirens and uncertainty, something unexpected is simmering—not just in kitchens, but in the soul of a nation. Ukrainian cuisine, long overshadowed by Soviet influence and global culinary trends, is experiencing a powerful rebirth. And at the forefront of this cultural revival is Chef Yevhen Klopotenko, a man who is using food as both shield and sword in the battle for Ukrainian identity.

While war rages on, Klopotenko is waging a different kind of fight—one for the survival and recognition of Ukraine’s culinary heritage. His kitchen has become a battlefield, his ingredients the weapons, and every dish he revives is a stand against cultural erasure. With roots deep in tradition and a vision reaching far beyond borders, Ukrainian cuisine is no longer just about food—it’s about freedom, pride, and resistance.

A Chef’s Mission in a Time of War

When Russia invaded Ukraine in February 2022, Chef Klopotenko could have left. Instead, he stayed. Trapped in Kyiv under martial law, he turned to the only tool he knew—his passion for food. He began sharing traditional Ukrainian recipes online, not just to feed people, but to remind them who they are and where they come from.

His efforts gained international attention when UNESCO added borshch—the iconic beetroot soup—to its List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding, acknowledging it as uniquely Ukrainian. This move was more than symbolic. It was a loud, flavorful rebuttal to years of cultural appropriation and historical confusion that blurred the lines between Russian and Ukrainian cuisine.

Rediscovering Ukraine’s True Flavor

Klopotenko's journey didn’t begin with war—it started years earlier, driven by a simple yet profound question: “What is Ukrainian food, really?” What he found was a patchwork of forgotten flavors, hidden behind decades of Soviet standardization. During the USSR era, culinary individuality was discouraged. Recipes were simplified, modified, and standardized to erase national distinctions. Borshch became “Soviet soup.” Dumplings, pies, and porridges lost their regional roots.

Determined to restore the past, Klopotenko immersed himself in historical texts, oral traditions, and old village recipes passed down by Ukrainian grandmothers. He traveled across the country to document the culinary diversity of Ukraine’s regions—from the hearty dishes of the Carpathians to the fish-forward cuisine of the south. His meticulous research led to the categorization of Ukrainian food into three strands: ethnic Ukrainian, Soviet-influenced, and multicultural regional cuisines.

In 2021, he published The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen, a cookbook that is now being translated into multiple languages. It's more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a political and cultural manifesto.

Food as Cultural Resistance

For Ukrainians, food has always been a way of life, but now it is also a form of protest. In the face of aggression and attempts at cultural domination, reclaiming traditional dishes has become a symbolic act of resistance.

Chef Klopotenko is using food to educate, unify, and empower. He partnered with First Lady Olena Zelenska to modernize school lunches across Ukraine, replacing processed Soviet-era meals with fresh, locally sourced dishes rooted in Ukrainian tradition. Even during power outages caused by missile attacks, his dedication didn’t waver. Schools prepared meals in basements, by candlelight, ensuring children not only stayed fed—but connected to their culture.

Internationally, Klopotenko has taken his message on the road. He has cooked at the UN, hosted Ukrainian food events across Europe and North America, and been featured in major media outlets. Through every spoonful of borshch, every plate of varenyky, he’s telling the world: Ukrainian culture is alive, defiant, and delicious.

A Global Audience With a Growing Appetite

What started as a national effort has now sparked global curiosity. Ukrainian cuisine is trending in restaurants from Berlin to Brooklyn, and food bloggers across Canada and the U.S. are scrambling to share authentic recipes. Ukrainian pop-ups are appearing in cities like Toronto, Chicago, and London—offering not just meals, but stories, music, and history.

Part of this surge is driven by solidarity—people want to support Ukraine. But part of it is simply the irresistible allure of the food itself. Earthy, bold, comforting, and diverse, Ukrainian cuisine resonates with the modern food movement’s focus on local ingredients and slow cooking.

Dishes like holubtsi (stuffed cabbage rolls), syrnyky (cheese pancakes), and pampushky (garlic bread rolls) are becoming social media darlings. Influencers and TikTok chefs are trying their hand at Ukrainian recipes, sparking further interest from younger generations.

Preserving More Than Just Recipes

In times of peace, food is comfort. In times of war, food is identity. What Klopotenko and others are doing is more than just cooking—it’s preserving the soul of a people.

Ukraine’s cultural survival is being fought not just in trenches, but at tables around the world. Each time someone learns to make borshch, reads a Ukrainian cookbook, or asks about the origins of a dish, they are participating in the preservation of a culture under threat.

Conclusion: A Taste That Tells a Story

Chef Yevhen Klopotenko is not just preserving a culinary tradition—he’s redefining it. He’s turning every meal into a story, every recipe into a history lesson, and every flavor into a call for remembrance and respect.

As the world watches Ukraine with admiration and empathy, food has become one of the most powerful bridges between nations. In the clatter of pots and pans, in the aroma of beetroot and dill, in the quiet moment of sharing a meal—Ukraine is telling its story.

And the world, it seems, is hungry to listen.