PERRELET TURBINE PILOT

The Perrelet Turbine Pilot does not subscribe to the traditional pilot’s watch style. On the contrary, the Swiss firm has conceived a very original aviation-themed timepiece that sidesteps convention with its bold use of colour and animated dialscape. Angus Davies gets ‘hands-on’ with this aviation-themed watch.

Back in the 1930s, the German Ministry of Aviation, or Reichsluftfahrtministerium (RLM), created a specification for pilots’ watches. These were intended for use by the Luftwaffe, serving as a supplement to the plane’s cockpit instruments. The watches had to be 55mm in diameter and needed to have a large winding crown, facilitating manipulation even when wearing gloves.

The RLM also made additional stipulations that suppliers were obliged to meet. For example, all pilots’ watches had to be equipped with a hacking seconds, allowing the wearer to halt the second hand by pulling out the crown. This was an essential feature when synchronising watches ahead of a bombing mission.

The watch also needed to have a Breguet hairspring, chronometer certification and a long leather strap allowing it to be worn over a flying suit. Furthermore, the RLM specification stated the watch had to be housed in an anti-magnetic case. Even the triangular-shaped index at noon, with two dots on either side, was a requirement of the RLM. Several companies were entrusted with supplying the Luftwaffe with these watches, sometimes termed ‘Grosse Fliegeruhr’ or ‘B-Uhr’ timepieces. These firms included Lange & Söhne, Laco (Lacher & Co), Stowa (Walter Storz), Wempe and IWC.

Many pilots’ watches after WWII continued to incorporate elements that were originally specified by the RLM. Although the Grosse Fliegeruhr may have been robust, precise and highly legible, it was never intended to be attractive. Today, some pilots’ watches have received a touch of cosmetic surgery with a nip and tuck here and there, improving wearability and augmenting eye-appeal. However, in many cases, the genre’s utilitarian origins still remain apparent.

Recently, I had the opportunity to get hands-on with the Perrelet Turbine Pilot and appraise its composition at close quarters. The Maison from Biel/Bienne has not followed the same path as others, preferring to look at the pilots’ watch with a fresh set of eyes. Vibrant colours enliven the model’s dial which also incorporates an enchanting dose of animation. Consistent with traditional pilot’s watches, the Perrelet Turbine Pilot is a practical proposition, but it also possesses a fresh-faced, handsome visage.

The dial

The Perrelet Turbine Pilot is available in seven different variants, encompassing a variety of hues and even a camouflage variant, ideally suited to covert military action. My press sample was rather more flamboyant, sporting various ebullient red dial details.

White luminescent hour and minute hands convey meaning with notable efficiency. The boss in the centre of the dial, connected to the canon pinion, is oversized, introducing a stylish departure from the norm.

The hours are denoted with plump Arabic numerals at the cardinal points and rectangular batons in between. Interestingly, the indexes are affixed to the underside of the sapphire crystal. The dialogue between the hands and indexes is notably clear and intelligible.

As the model’s name implies, the watch is endowed with the Maison’s ‘turbine’ system. To understand the rationale for this system, it is necessary to look at the company’s past.

Abraham-Louis Perrelet invented the automatic pocket watch (1777) and it remains very much at the heart of everything today’s eponymous brand does. In 1995, the firm released its first ‘double rotor’ watch. Both of these rotors were functional. However, the dial-side rotor proved particularly interesting to clients who were no doubt captivated by its revolving motion. Perrelet unveiled the inaugural ‘Turbine’ model in 2009. The dial-side rotor didn’t tension the mainspring but was designed to deliver a unique animated display. The turbine blades, similar to those found on an aeroplane engine, readily spin, intermittently revealing detail on the lower dial level.

Beneath each index, located on the said lower dial level, are red chevron markings emulating those often found on cockpit instruments.

The indications include a black central sweep seconds hand with a prominent orange tip. Perrelet has incorporated other flight-themed references such as the fletching style counterweight affixed to the central sweep seconds. Quite simply, the Maison has expended much effort on this watch, lavishing various surfaces with a plethora of details.

Various scales in eye-popping red hues encircle the main dial area. An additional scale adorns the bezel. The aviation style slide rule doffs its hat to a pre-electronic era when pilots made calculations manually.

The case

Measuring 48mm in diameter, the scale of the Perrelet Turbine Pilot may prove off-putting to some potential buyers. However, when affixed to the wrist, the watch feels smaller than the stated dimensions suggest. When the watch is placed on its side atop a table, the strap readily curves, eager to encircle the wrist. Another reason for the watch appearing smaller is that the lugs are comparatively short and they arc sharply downwards. Personally, I found the watch granted an ergonomic union with my wrist and it conferred impressive wearer comfort.

The stainless steel case is dressed in black PVD, imbuing it with a stealthy nature and providing a wonderful juxtaposition with the model’s vibrant red tones. Four sections emanating from the caseband rise upwards and hug the bezel. Two similar sections of metal, positioned centrally between each set of lugs, provide a further link between the strap and the watch head.

Perrelet has equipped the Turbine Pilot with a ‘bi-material’ leather strap enriched with an alligator pattern. Interestingly, it was only after I read the specification sheet that I determined the strap wasn’t made from reptile skin. As more people express concern about using alligator skin, Perrelet’s approach seems very sensible.

Tactility is an important factor when appraising the composition of any watch. With an outstretched index finger and a keen eye, the Perrelet Turbine Pilot rewards the senses with a palpable sense of quality. The crown features cross knurling, inviting the wearer to caress it and derive cathartic benefit from its texture.

To the rear of the watch, an exhibition caseback affords views of the self-winding movement.

The movement

The Perrelet Turbine Pilot is fitted with an in-house automatic movement, the calibre P-331-MH. Recently, I reviewed this movement in detail, however, for those readers who are time-poor, I have detailed some points below that are worth mentioning:

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o The bridges that are positioned centre stage are adorned with perlage, while the visible edges of the mainplate feature colimaçon.

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o The oscillating weight is an openworked design, affording superior views of the components below.

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o COSC certification provides independent validation of the model’s accuracy.

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o Various types of tests have also been performed to ensure robustness, water resistance and tolerance to various temperatures. This test regime forms part of the Chronofiable certification standard (independent assessment).

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o The rate is adjusted with an index-adjuster

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o Assuming the watch is fully wound, the Perrelet Turbine Pilot will run autonomously for 42 hours.

Closing remarks

The dial of the Perrelet Turbine Pilot proves very legible. By fitting the indexes to the underside of the crystal, adding the turbine and the lower dial level, Perrelet has introduced layers of detail that confer depth and masterfully play with light.

Moreover, by equipping the dial with various graduated scales, the Swiss marque has endowed the display with many numbers and markings. Those prospective purchasers who prefer less detail can select one of the company’s Turbine Evo models which eschew the aforementioned red elements, thereby bestowing a calmer temperament. Personally, when wearing the Turbine Pilot, I adored its liberal application of red hues. This is a watch that exudes optimism and will readily elicit a smile on any face.

One thing is clear, Perrelet has never looked over anyone’s shoulder and copied their work. Indeed, its design is very much its own. Some traditional pilots’ watches were produced with practical considerations in mind and little thought to the aesthetic charms they might proffer. Over the years, some military pilots’ watches have received a make-over with perhaps a green dial or by using more avant-garde case materials, etc. However, the approach taken by Perrelet has not been to adapt an existing style of watch, but to conceive something fresh and new. Indeed, Perrelet has looked to the heavens and conceived a timepiece that delivers both practicality, ingenious animation and an extraordinary amount of style.