A wave

Silence,

as the warm ocean water cradles like a babe,

Silence

As the torrent of white above rives away,

Silence

As you lay motionless in free fall.

Nothing but the inky blue below,

The void as it seems relaxes you,

Nothing but space, space to think, space to be.

Detail only in the light drifting around you,

Turning the dark into something warmer.

A change, one of focus, bought by the tug on a heel,

The leash connecting you too your platform of safety,

Your singular island in a vast ocean of nothing.

Your chest tight, low on it’s usually supply,

Your mouth tempted to gulp but stayed in place,

Your mind switching to that of action.

Your limbs warmed by the push of red,

Powerful but steady motions begin to twist,

Pointing up now at the lead and the cracking board above,

Your target and home in sight.

A chill hits first your face and then your shoulders,

Like breaking through ice your emerge into the wind,

A gasp filling you lungs with the salty air,

Rejuvenating all of you with a flood of senses.

Never more alive have your felt, only inches from death,

But well within your comfort,

But time you need,

time to recoup,

and position yourself.

You paddle towards that island bobbing in the rough,

In seconds reaching and smothering it colours,

Better than the best mattress,

As rest is well earned,

but shortly kept.

The subtle lift behind you, a deep blue mass,

You only pray you are in the right direction,

A last ditch scramble to balance for what’s about to come,

The next wave is here.