How Adidas, Asics, and Other Shoemakers Deal With Waste

In a world where nearly 50 billion shoes are produced annually, a staggering majority end up in landfills. However, a groundbreaking initiative in the Netherlands claims to have cracked the code for recycling footwear at a rate of up to 2500 shoes per hour. Notably, major brands like Adidas are also taking steps to reduce waste by incorporating materials derived from ocean plastic. So, why is recycling shoes such a challenge, and are these efforts from big brands making a difference?

Your everyday running shoe is a complex assembly, consisting of approximately 40 different parts made from various materials such as plastic, nylon, metal, rubber, and ethylene vinyl acetate—a type of foam. Mass-produced shoes typically rely on powerful glue to hold these layers together, making them notoriously difficult to break down and recycle. The glue must be removed to avoid contaminating the separated materials, which shoemakers need in their purest form to create new shoes.

Entrepreneurs Danny Pormes and his wife Arna claim to have found a solution to recycle every single part of a shoe. Operating under the name Fast Feet Grind (FFG), their company processes shoes from the Dutch military, collection boxes in stores, and even directly from manufacturers. FFG's automated mechanical system, free of chemical solvents like glue, separates different components efficiently. While the exact details of their process remain undisclosed, FFG ensures that the final products are meticulously separated by type, with foam and rubber ground down into particles free from contamination.

Apart from grinding and recycling shoe materials, FFG also extracts valuable resources from the shoes, such as fabric from uppers, which can be transformed into yarn for new shoelaces, and metals from safety shoes. The Pormes duo, who initiated their recycling journey in their own shoe store, Runners World Horn, envisions transforming the entire shoe industry. Their commitment to change reflects not only a passion for sustainability but also a strategic approach to revolutionizing the field.

Big-name companies worldwide are also exploring ways to produce less wasteful shoes. Adidas, responsible for manufacturing over 420 million pairs annually, began using plastic collected from the ocean to create sneakers and apparel in 2015. Although this marked a significant step towards sustainability, the company's vision expanded further in 2021 with the introduction of Futurecraft Loop—a shoe made entirely from virgin plastic, eliminating the need for glue. This innovation allows Adidas to break down and recycle the shoe without concerns about contaminants, provided customers return their old pairs.

Despite these efforts, some challenges persist. Shoemakers like ASICS acknowledge that recycled materials come with limitations. Current sneakers made from recycled materials might not match the performance standards of high-performance running shoes. The goal remains to create recycled sneakers that are not only environmentally friendly but also functionally equivalent to their non-recycled counterparts.

Researchers at UC San Diego are exploring biodegradable materials for footwear, using algae to create environmentally friendly flip-flops. Their straightforward process involves converting algae oil compounds into flexible and rigid foams, forming the sole and footbed of the flip-flop. The resulting product is 100% biodegradable, breaking down in 3 to 6 months in a compost pile or approximately a year if it ends up in the ocean.

In India, an innovative entrepreneur has taken a different approach by creating shoes from plastic waste. The company, known as DAILY, cleans plastic bags without chemicals, converts them into sheets called DAILY Tex, and assembles them into sneakers. With each pair containing 10 plastic bags and 12 bottles, the manufacturing process involves die-cutting, stitching, and assembling, resulting in a 100% biodegradable shoe.

Back in the Netherlands, William Turtas' company is utilizing recycled shoe materials to construct a mini soccer pitch. The ground shoes, mixed with a polymer binder, provide a soft and bouncy surface for play. This creative repurposing breathes new life into sneakers that might have otherwise ended up in landfills.

Exclusive International, another company working with FFG's materials, transforms them into displays for brands like ASICS. By bringing a significant percentage of ground material back into sheet form, they contribute to sustainable practices in the manufacturing industry.

In conclusion, while the road to sustainable shoe production is still under construction, these initiatives and innovations underscore a shared commitment to reducing waste in the footwear industry. From recycling every part of a shoe to creating biodegradable alternatives, the journey toward eco-friendly footwear is a collaborative effort involving entrepreneurs, researchers, and major brands. As these efforts gain momentum, a future where shoes are not only stylish but also sustainable seems increasingly promising.