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Climbing Manaslu: Risks, Rewards, and What You Need to Know

For many mountaineers, Manaslu is seen as the "starter 8000er"

By Anya GurungPublished 9 months ago 4 min read

Standing proudly at 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), Mount Manaslu is the eighth highest mountain in the world. Located in the remote Gorkha region of Nepal, Manaslu offers climbers a unique blend of physical challenge, stunning landscapes, and relatively fewer crowds compared to Everest or Annapurna.

But climbing Manaslu is no small feat. It comes with significant risks, immense rewards, and a set of challenges that every aspiring climber must be prepared for.

Here’s everything you need to know before taking on this majestic Himalayan giant.

Why Climb Manaslu?

For many mountaineers, Manaslu is seen as the "starter 8000er" — a first step into the world of climbing 8000-meter peaks. While no mountain above 8,000 meters is ever easy, Manaslu is often considered more accessible than Everest or K2 due to its lower technical difficulty and more straightforward summit route.

Here are some reasons climbers choose Manaslu:

• Achievable Summit: It’s often seen as one of the “easier” 8000-meter peaks.

• Stunning Scenery: Dramatic glaciers, hanging ice cliffs, and endless mountain vistas.

• Fewer Crowds: Compared to Everest, the Manaslu expedition is far less crowded.

• Experience Building: Ideal preparation for those aiming to climb Everest or other technical peaks later.

However, make no mistake — climbing Manaslu still demands serious preparation, endurance, and respect for high-altitude conditions.

Understanding the Risks

No high-altitude expedition comes without risks, and Manaslu is no exception.

Here’s what you need to be aware of:

1. Avalanche Danger

Manaslu has a history of deadly avalanches, especially between Camp 2 and Camp 3. Heavy snowfall can dramatically increase avalanche risk, making it crucial to monitor weather forecasts closely and rely on the expertise of experienced guides.

2. Crevasse Hazards

The route traverses numerous glaciers riddled with crevasses. Using fixed ropes, ladders, and having glacier travel experience is vital to navigate safely.

3. Altitude-Related Illnesses

Climbers face the real threat of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), HAPE (High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema), and HACE (High-Altitude Cerebral Edema). Proper acclimatization and immediate medical response can be life-saving.

4. Unpredictable Weather

Manaslu’s weather can turn quickly. Snowstorms, whiteouts, and high winds are common, especially above 7,000 meters.

Climbers must be prepared for long waiting periods at base camp or high camps.

5. Physical and Mental Fatigue

Spending weeks at high altitude, coping with freezing temperatures, and making summit pushes through the night are mentally and physically exhausting.

Without solid fitness and mental toughness, success becomes unlikely.

The Rewards of Climbing Manaslu

Despite the risks, the rewards are unparalleled.

Standing atop Manaslu, with the vast Himalayas stretching out beneath your feet, is a moment few people ever experience.

Here’s why it’s worth it:

• Sense of Achievement: Summiting an 8000-meter peak is an extraordinary accomplishment.

• Spectacular Views: Witness endless glaciers, pristine snowfields, and nearby peaks like Ganesh Himal, Annapurna II, and Himlung.

• Cultural Immersion: The approach trek through the Manaslu Conservation Area offers an authentic glimpse into remote mountain villages and Tibetan Buddhist culture.

• Personal Growth: Facing your fears, pushing past your limits, and discovering new reserves of strength.

Manaslu doesn’t just test your body — it transforms your spirit.

When to Climb: The Best Seasons

The best time to climb Manaslu is during the autumn season, particularly from mid-September to late October.

• Autumn (September–October): Offers more stable weather, clear skies, and better snow conditions.

• Spring (April–May): Possible but less popular due to heavier snow accumulation and higher avalanche risk.

Many climbers aim for late September, when monsoon season has ended but winter storms haven't yet begun.

The Climbing Route: What to Expect

Here’s a general breakdown of the Manaslu climbing route:

• Base Camp (4,800m): Set on a rocky moraine near the Manaslu Glacier. This becomes your home for several weeks.

• Camp 1 (5,600m): A steep climb up through icefall and crevassed glacier.

• Camp 2 (6,400m): Located on a broad, snowy plateau. It’s safer but can be extremely cold and windy.

• Camp 3 (6,800m): A short but steep climb. Higher risk of avalanches.

• Camp 4 (7,400m): Final camp before the summit. Exposure and fatigue are major factors here.

• Summit Push (8,163m): A long, arduous day — often 12–16 hours round trip — but the reward is reaching the eighth highest point on Earth!

Typically, expeditions use the traditional Northeast route with fixed ropes placed by Sherpa teams.

Do You Need a Guide?

Yes, absolutely.

Since 2023, Nepal has made it mandatory to have a registered guide for high-altitude expeditions — and for good reason.

A reliable guide company will:

• Handle logistics (permits, base camp setup, food)

• Help with acclimatization plans

• Provide experienced Sherpa support

• Offer emergency evacuation support if needed

Attempting a Manaslu expedition without a professional team is extremely dangerous and not recommended.

Essential Preparation and Training

Training for Manaslu should start at least 6–12 months before the climb.

Focus on:

• Cardiovascular fitness: Long hikes, running, cycling.

• Strength training: Core, legs, and endurance workouts.

• Altitude experience: Pre-climb treks like Everest Base Camp or Mera Peak are excellent preparation.

• Technical skills: Crampon use, ice axe arrest, fixed rope techniques.

Also, mental preparation is key. Staying positive, managing fear, and pushing through discomfort are what separate summitters from turnarounds.

Permit and Costs

The Manaslu climbing permit costs approximately $1,800–$2,000 per person during the autumn season.

Additional costs include:

• Guide and Sherpa fees

• Base camp logistics

• Insurance

• Personal gear

• Flight and hotel expenses

Most climbers budget between $12,000–$18,000 for a complete expedition, depending on services and support.

Final Thoughts: Is Manaslu Right for You?

Climbing Manaslu is an incredible adventure for serious climbers ready to take the leap into the world of 8000ers. While it’s less technical than other giants, it demands deep respect, careful planning, and absolute determination.

If you are physically fit, mentally prepared, and passionate about high-altitude mountaineering, Manaslu offers one of the most rewarding experiences in the Himalayas.

It’s not just a summit — it’s a journey into some of the most remote and beautiful parts of Nepal, and into the depths of your own capabilities.

Standing on the summit of Manaslu, with endless mountains stretching beyond the horizon, you realize: the real climb was not just up the mountain — it was within yourself.

Nature

About the Creator

Anya Gurung

I am a traveller/explorer

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