Karachi Chronicles Chapter 14

When travelling overseas, one of the things that I get the most pleasure from is visiting local convenience stores and supermarkets. Mainly because it’s an easy introduction to local snacks, drinks and vices. Although it may be slightly materialistic and safe, beyond this, I find it an interesting window into the day-to-day life of local citizens. This fascination probably stems from my time living in Japan, where konbinis† are quite literally on every corner. To be clear, I’m talking about a world before Facebook and where every Aussie with a passport hadn’t yet “discovered” the Karaage-kun and dollar chuhais at Lawson.

While in Karachi, we didn’t get many opportunities to just roll up to a local convenience store. As much as I was hoping we’d be able to sneak down to Burns Road one evening, to just be in Pakistan was definitely worth this compromise. Our main priority was playing cricket and every moment in this land was a bonus. Reflecting further on the bigger picture, a few small compromises on our behalf probably benefited more people than most would or even could appreciate.

I must admit this philosophy was hard to follow on both the times we played at Moin Khan Academy. Within direct line of sight from where we were perched up on the second storey of the pavilion, there was a local supermarket called TEE-EEM Mart. Adorned with the recognisable Pepsi logo, a familiar sight in Pakistan, it was tantalisingly close enough that I could mentally part with all my rupees. There’s no debate that I’d definitely been dispatched for sixes further than the distance to this shop before. Drifting off between balls, I was imaginarily buying all manner of random treats, yet in reality was stuck impossibly so far away due to our security protocol.

Fortunately, we did have a couple of snack vendors located within the confines of our hotel complex, so no one went without. For anyone visiting, the first of these encountered, was a small stand located right inside the lobby at the front entrance. Specialising almost exclusively in sweet, prepackaged snacks, such as chocolate bars, it was handy if you needed a quick hit. Most of the products here were also Western brands and hence quite familiar to us all. Although these were probably a welcome sight after a long day in the sun or to any home sick traveller, they were a little too familiar for my liking. I still did purchase from here occasionally but it was more just to share the love around to our gracious hosts.

Very close by, down a side corridor, sat a few more retail stores. These were mostly targeted towards selling souvenirs so weren’t really useful when hankering for a snack. Think more grandma’s plate collection or Louis Vuitton belts than drinks and treats. Heading back in the other direction, down another thoroughfare, was the only other option available. Outside of the restaurants and cafes, this was our remaining, proverbial port in a storm. This nameless, low key shop turned out to be the crew's Sydney Harbour in a raging East Coast low.

We affectionately called it the “Kwik-E-Mart” and to be honest I’m still not sure if this place has a name. However, besides not being able to spread the word, that’s not the hugest deal. Like that unassuming random at a party that has stories for days, lying behind the sleek, yet bland facade was a myriad of surprises and bargains. There was an array of goods on offer here and the prices were ridiculously cheap compared with back home. Even though it was a fairly small shop, they made up for it by stacking goods on shelves and behind glass displays all over the place. It had all the usual suspects but also some other oddities as well.

Starting the party off was a cacophony of chips, ranging in flavour from paprika or masala to yoghurt and herb, all for fifteen cents Australian a packet. Another personal favourite was the soft drink fridge that had a range of interesting flavours, of which I was quite partial to the creaming soda notes that emanated from a green can of Pakola. Beyond the safe or downright risky, this place also served as a pharmacy where you could get a range of elixirs, many of which are now controlled in Australia. Interestingly, they were usually sold by the sheet instead of a box at a time.

Of all the team that frequented this place regularly, a few of us were quite passionate about the array of goods it had to offer. As a self proclaimed convenience store connoisseur, I would have to vote Steve McClymont as the leader of the pack. From what I’ve already touched on, he established a few firsts on this trip. Not only did he get his first nickname, Tripod, but this trip was also his first time on an aeroplane. Watching him peruse the shelves with the discerning taste of a seasoned backpacker in a Moroccan bazaar belied the fact this was his first excursion to foreign shores.

Steve was selected for his amazing wicket keeping skills. His hands are not only safe, they are quicker than a pickpocket during European summer vacation (sorry to judge on nationality). Unfortunately sometimes too quick, like the leg side stumping he took in one of our games at the Karachi Gymkhana. Whipping the bails off in the blink of an eye, the umpire had no choice but to signal for the third umpire. Only with the aid of technology could we see that the batsman was clearly out of his ground, but alas not out, due to the ball being gloved in front of the wicket.

Another memorable, yet more triumphant effort, was when I spontaneously bounced the USA number ten, first ball*. After taking an eternity to stroll out, I secretly made the snap decision to go upstairs, without the protection of a fine leg. Surprised, he wore it on the gloves attempting a hook shot, while reacting too slow and almost losing his helmet in the fray. Leaping into action, high and wide down the leg side, Tripod not only saved a boundary but took an amazing athletic catch at full stretch. As stupid and brazen as my decision was, it turned into one of the more spectacular catches of our journey.

It also turns out, Stevie was just as proficient at holding onto classic products from the convenience store downstairs. Many an hour was spent discussing his latest find at the “Kwik-E-Mart.” Special mention should also go out to Rodger here, as he seemed to find and concoct some interesting meals from there as well. Probably his best find was some of the cup ramen, stashed amongst the clutter, which were great when the guts weren't playing ball. Between these two, I'd been inspired to head to the Konbini on many occasions, even when I didn’t feel up to it or necessarily need to.

Not that I really needed an excuse but the daily treks to the shop with mates were much more fun than flying solo. Being confined to the hotel, this was often a big part of our afternoon social scene. It was also great fun bantering with the staff and negotiating the price, that seemed to drop the better your chat was. Over the three weeks we managed to get to know the staff, who were mainly from the same family. Their English was great and since they were not the hugest cricket buffs, which is rare in Pakistan, the chats were a great break from each day’s play.

On the final day, a few of us made sure to stop by and say a final farewell. I tried to film the shop but realised the footage didn’t do it justice due to the location actually being what made this place so special. Not to talk it down because it had all manner of goods and as mentioned the staff were awesome but I don’t think it would have had the same impact if I passed it on a street back home. In saying that, you wouldn’t be able to by pseudoephedrine or codeine for thirty cents a packet back home either.

Inevitably, we left with fond memories of the “Kwik-E-Mart” and may have even picked up a random souvenir or two, one of which rose to the job of team mascot. My only one minor regret was that I didn’t get to try paan, a leaf wrapped chewing tobacco, from a local street vendor. This was probably a blessing in disguise as I’m not sure that I would have handled it particularly well, under my condition anyway. At the end of the day you can’t do it all but what we did, even during our down time, made the whole adventure that little bit more special. So, from myself and on behalf of the lads, cheers to the “Kwik-E-Mart” and all its legendary staff.

† Konbini - the Japanese loan word for convenience store.

* This is the same wicket Abdul Razak was joking to me about in Chapter 12.