Wind on the sands

Between the villages of Barra de Valizas and Cabo Polonio is one of Uruguay's most dramatic national parks. The path along the coast traverses desolate dunes, whimsical grasslands, rock hewn outcrops and lengthy stretches of golden sand beaches cleansed by the Atlantic ocean.

In summer it is a hike that enlightens the spirit and takes one away from the routines and troubles of the world. The pristine environment, only tarnished by the occasional skeletal remains of wildlife, is a testament to nature and to what the world should be.

Every now and then, the crystal clear wind rises briefly to dust the crests of the dunes and scatter fine granules of sand to change the shape and form of the Atlantic coast. The gentle mist of creamy saffron grains hovers momentarily before settling and creating a new landscape, viewed only by the wafts of time and the rare walker.

Barra de Valizar is a quaint settlement to the north of the National Park. Its roads are dust. Its houses are relics of timber constructions not well suited to the raw elements of the Atlantic coast. There is a magic about the corroded vehicles lining the grassy verges and shading the languid canine residents. The occasional cat peers curiously from cavities in the wooden structures.

On the beach is the windswept restaurant with its open walls, sand encrusted piles and a stimulating scent of fresh seafood and Spanish influenced spices. The temperature beneath the awnings is marginally lower than under the unobstructed sunlight. The first beer is inconsequential. The second removes the dryness from the lengthy bus ride from La Paloma to the south.

The residents of the hamlet are friendly without being warm. They appear tired of the heat. Tired of the Summer and tired of the wilting flora. They will smile, but the conversations are generally limited to transactions.

From this ramshackle collection of deceased vehicles, dying houses and funereal roads one crosses the delta of the inappropriately named Lagoon of Canada, and with soft sand beneath your feet, head south.

It is the tremendous and ever moving dunes that confront the walker initially. To go around? To clamber to the sandy mist laden peaks? The latter provides the walker with views of an uninterrupted and uninhibited environment. The vast landscape shudderingly reduces you to a tiny morsel of the land, not the arrogant species of those intent on crushing nature.

Scarred granite rocks , constantly pounded by foaming salt water wait patiently for you to crawl, clutch and cling to as you cautiously traverse the varying outcrops. What lies around the bluff is a stretch of glorious, unfitted and untamed beach. The surf is wild yet silent. The sand soft yet firm underfoot. The dunes, rounded and parsley plumed with long stands of olive tones grasses.

Upon the wind there is a fragrance of salt, rarely tinged by the rotting carcasses of lost bovines or bloated sea lions.

In the far distance is the settlement of Cabo Polonia. This refuge from the tarmacs, pavements and power poles is silent and welcoming. There is plenty of colour in the structures. Varying sounds of chatter, music and the ever present hum of generators providing an underlying soundtrack for a village firmly rooted in the Age of Aquarius.

Rainbows. Peace symbols. Aquatic creatures adorn the unsophisticated hovels. Lovers walk hand in hand, pausing for the occasional embrace and kiss. More often than not, they are young and beautiful. Scant beards and tanned skin entwine as boys kiss boys. Drawn back hair and rattling bracelets combine as girls kiss girls. Raw cotton shirts rub together as boys kiss girls. The love is natural, unhampered and so real.

As the sly darkens to an inky indigo, the couples chat and display affection around fire pits. The music of their voices permeates the air and the village settles slowly into a blend of humour, unbridled love and a quest to avoid the return to what the Americans call civilisation.

Either alone, or with company, traipsing from the rustic hamlet of Barra de Valizas, with it's derelict collection of Land Rovers and shambolic cafes, to the eco-friendly and Seventies inspired settlement of Cabo Polonio, this is a day long walk that allows you to leave only your footprints and take away only your memories.