The Serpentine

You can’t miss The Serpentine in Hyde Park. It’s a crowd puller like London’s crown jewels. I avoid the lake during the peak season unless it’s during the weekday, when you can walk at your own pace without the crowds. Come the weekend? Forget it. However, nabbing a deckchair early over the weekend can be a good idea too.

A friend persuaded me to go to Hyde Park one Saturday, and we went early. It was enjoyable, and we left as the crowds gathered around the lake.

History

Queen Caroline came up with the idea of a lake in 1730. She felt the park needed a bit of extra zing. It came to life after several grotty ponds were flooded. Two hundred labourers dug out the old ponds to make way for the lake. The water came from the River Westbourne. Today, this 40-acre stunning lake is a perfect reprieve from the hustle and bustle of City living.

You’ll see the joggers doing their thing, people watchers having a merry time, and the cyclists along the designated path. You might even catch the King’s soldiers practising on the horse track on Rotten Row. All of this can be enjoyed in this beautiful old hunting ground.

The Lake

The lake isn’t just pretty, it’s also used for swimming at the Lido. You see hardy souls swimming year-round, even when it’s cold enough to make your teeth chatter. I’ve even seen parts of the lake frozen in January. It’s a sight to behold. Thankfully, there are plenty of cafes for visitors to warm up during winter or enjoy an alfresco lunch or meal during the warmer months.

One of my favourite walks is near the Serpentine, and you can see the crowds thinning out as you move further north. You might even catch herons trying to get a spot of lunch, cormorants diving like pros, plus you can’t miss the plentiful Swans. They’re so used to people that don’t tend to bat an eyelid as you walk past.

Cross the Serpentine Bridge (created in 1826 by George Rennie), and you’re straddling between Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. It gets oh so genteel as you cross over into Kensington Gardens.

19th Century

By the 19th century, it was the place to be seen, with the genteel folk engaging in boating and skating when it froze. Come 1851, the Great Exhibition rolled into Hyde Park, and the Serpentine was the backdrop for dazzling fireworks that had Londoners mesmerised. During World War II, they drained it to a muddy puddle so German bombers couldn’t use its glint as a target—a brilliant move.

The ‘60s saw the Rolling Stones and Pink Floyd rocking the park nearby, with the lake as the ultimate stage prop. It’s hosted Olympic triathlons, like in 2012, and even barmy boat races, like the 1829 Oxford-Cambridge wager that started it all.

The Serpentine Gallery

The Serpentine Galleries, opened in 1970, keep the history rolling with art that’s often weird and wacky, always a talking point. You can’t miss the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, which was unveiled in 2004.

It is a fitting tribute to the Princess who used Kensington Garden and Hyde Park to breathe and be herself incognito. Some say they even saw her rollerblading in the park. I don’t know how true that story is, though.

Parting Comments

You will see Tabby often near the horse track, walking along my favourite route. However, what makes the Serpentine proper London is that it’s our shared backyard. You’ll see people enjoying picnics or sunbathing during summer; you’ll see walkers every season and flocks of tourists enjoying the park, too.

The SolarShuttle, a solar-powered boat, will ferry you across for a fiver, and there are always events going on, including art installations, festivals, and other delightful cultural activities.

The Serpentine’s not just a lake; it’s London’s living room, where history, heart, and a bit of cheek come together for a proper good time.

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