Stepping Into Tuscan Tradition

Spending time in Siena was a major highlight of one of a couple of trips to Italy that I’ve enjoyed. Having missed out on visiting the city during my first Italian excursion, it was one of the first things on my to-do list when I returned to Tuscany and I wasn't disappointed.

Siena is easily reached by rail or road and our trip from Cambiano, a small village handily situated between Siena and Florence. It took a swift 20 minutes on the surprisingly reliable local rail service. We hadn't prepared for the uphill slog from the station to the heart of the city, along steeply inclining and winding roads, but the views were magnificent and once we reached the summit, we very quickly decided that it was well worth it.

The Real Italy

Head down a maze of narrow streets that snake towards the city's main square and what greets you there makes you feel that you've reached the real Italy. Yes, the city is popular with tourists, but it doesn't feel like it's designed for tourists in the sense that it has an incredibly traditional aura about it and you won't find tacky tourist shops on every corner. Instead you'll come across a range of small artisanal shops selling traditional products, including a plethora of fashion accessories and food products made from Wild Boar! If you’re a vegetarian or vegan, you might want to prepare yourself for the sight of raw meat hanging outside the delicatessens, including the occasional boar’s head as you make your way through the city.

Siena also features a host of upmarket fashion retailers, cafes, and restaurants tucked away down quiet side streets. You’ll have to work to find some of them, but what you discover there will make it worth the effort.

Siena's Breathtaking Cathedral and Main Square

At the crest of the hill on the way into the city is the impressive Duomo, shining white in the sun and made from marble, with beautiful gold inset frescos on its front. This impressive Romanesque-Gothic cathedral is simply breathtaking. Step inside and it’s like a treasure trove of renaissance works by Michelangelo and Donatello and frescoes by Pinturicchio. You’ll be tempted to look up at the wonderful adornments above and around you, but the marble panels decorating the floor of the cathedral are some of Siena’s most precious artworks — so don’t forget to look down at your feet!

The Piazza del Campo — the city’s historic centre — is one of the most beautiful central squares anywhere in Europe and houses a wide variety of good quality restaurants, with a great atmosphere and the chance for some alfresco dining as you watch other visitors discover this magical city. We ate at Ristorante alla Speranza, which specialises in pasta and pizza, so is a good pit stop for something to keep you going as you explore the city. If you happen to be in the area in early July or mid-August you can also see Siena’s famous Palio di Siena horse race with bareback riders competing to come out on top in a frantic race around the square. It’s quite a spectacle!

The architecture, heritage, and relaxed vibe of this city made me feel right at home. It’s a great alternative to Florence — though I’d recommend visiting both to feel the full benefit. In truth, you won’t find a huge number of tourist attractions in Siena, in contrast to its neighbouring city, so it’s not somewhere to visit if you feel the need to flock to the most popular sites. But if you don’t go to Siena, you’ll be passing up the opportunity to feel that you’ve truly stepped into Italy’s past and experienced some authentic Italian culture. The city has preserved much of its original medieval architecture and is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Siena has true character and spirit and if you miss it, you’ll be sorry.