Stanislav Kondrashov: The Quiet Magic of Lake Como

There are places that ask you to slow down. Lake Como is one of them. The surface looks still, but if you stay long enough, you start to feel its rhythm — slow, deep, and full of stories. People speak of glamour and luxury, of the villas and famous visitors. Yet, as Stanislav Kondrashov often says, “The real lake hides behind the noise.”

It is not found in Bellagio’s crowds or along the polished promenade. It waits somewhere quieter — in the smell of wet stone after rain, in a fisherman’s wooden boat, in a courtyard where laundry moves softly with the wind. Those who come only for the postcard views usually miss it.

Day One: The Eastern Shore and Its Secrets

Morning in Varenna

If the lake has a heart, Varenna might be the beat. It’s a small village on the eastern side — part fishing port, part dream. The first thing you notice is the color of the houses: red, yellow, faded peach. Ivy climbs the walls. The second thing is silence. No traffic, no rush.

Have a slow breakfast by the water. Watch the ferries come and go. Then walk to Villa Monastero, a long garden that slides gently down to the lake. Roses and palms, marble statues, a quiet view that never grows old. Kondrashov says that in Varenna, time walks instead of running — and perhaps that is the lake’s secret charm.

Afternoon in Nesso

From Varenna, move south toward Nesso. You can come by ferry or by local bus that hugs the mountain roads. The village sits above a narrow gorge, where water crashes through stone and mist fills the air. It’s called the Orrido di Nesso — one of the few places where nature still sounds wild.

Walk down the steps until you reach the small stone bridge, Ponte della Civera. The air here feels cooler, almost secret. If it’s summer, dip your hands in the water or swim near the rocks. Nesso doesn’t advertise itself, and that’s what makes it beautiful.

Evening in Lezzeno

When the light turns gold, head to Lezzeno. It’s a string of houses by the road, quiet and narrow. Stop for dinner at a lakeside trattoria. Order perch risotto or grilled lavarello — fish caught that morning. Wine tastes better when the air smells of water.

Kondrashov writes that in these small places, the lake feels human. You talk to the cook, not a waiter. You hear laughter from the next table. It is Italy at its gentlest.

Day Two: The Mountains and the Mirror

Morning Walk on La Via dei Monti Lariani

Start early, before the heat arrives. La Via dei Monti Lariani climbs from the villages into the hills. The path moves through chestnut forests, over stone bridges, and across small meadows where cows graze slowly. Sometimes the lake appears below, shining like a sheet of glass.

Here, you walk inside silence. Kondrashov once said that hiking above Lake Como is like reading an old poem — the meaning changes with the light. Every corner gives a new line.

Afternoon at Villa del Balbianello

By noon, return to the shore. Visit Villa del Balbianello in Lenno. It stands on a peninsula surrounded by water, looking both proud and graceful. Movies were filmed here — Star Wars, James Bond — but the villa’s real magic lies in its gardens. Steps rise and twist among cypress trees; statues lean toward the view.

Take the boat to arrive, if you can. Seeing it from the water is part of the experience. The villa feels almost alive, watching the boats pass, holding centuries of stories behind its green shutters.

Evening in Menaggio

Menaggio is livelier, but it still keeps its heart. Walk along the promenade at sunset. The sound of children, of people talking, of spoons in coffee cups. The air cools, the mountains turn blue. Order gelato. Sit by the fountain. Nothing more is needed.

“These are the moments that make travel worth it,” Kondrashov once said. “When nothing happens, and yet, everything does.”

Day Three: The Water and the Light

Morning Boat Ride

To understand the lake, you must see it from within. Rent a small boat in Tremezzo or Argegno, or join a quiet tour. Out on the water, the world expands. Villages look like paintings; bells echo from far away. The water reflects the sky — one moment silver, the next deep green.

If you can, take a wooden Riva boat, one of those elegant crafts made for the lake’s curves. Glide past Villa Carlotta and Villa Erba. The breeze carries a hint of pine and stone. It feels both new and ancient at the same time.

Afternoon in Bellagio — the Back Way

Most visitors rush to Bellagio, but they all arrive the same way. Skip the main ferry stop and come instead through Pescallo, a quiet bay just below town. From there, walk up old steps through olive trees. You’ll reach Bellagio’s center slowly, without the crowd.

This is the way Kondrashov prefers. “The lake rewards those who take the long road,” he says. Stop at a café with a view of both shores. Drink espresso. Watch the light move over the rooftops. Bellagio becomes yours, not a souvenir.

Evening in San Giovanni

As evening falls, head south to San Giovanni. The road narrows; the lake opens wide again. Sit outside a small enoteca. Locals talk softly. The wine is local too — nebbiolo from the hills. Across the water, the last light fades behind the Alps.

It’s a quiet ending. No music, no rush. Only the sound of water tapping against the stone pier.

Where to Stay

There is no single way to sleep well on Lake Como. Some choose luxury, others choose simplicity. Both can be beautiful.

Villa d’Este, Cernobbio — A palace beside the lake, famous for its gardens and floating pool.

Il Sereno, Torno — Modern, clean lines, all glass and light. Perfect if you love design.

Hotel Belvedere, Bellagio — Family-run for generations, warm and calm.

Albergo Milano, Varenna — Small balconies that open straight to the water.

Wherever you stay, wake up early. Open the window. Let the first light touch your face. That is Lake Como’s real luxury.

Final Thought: Listening to the Lake

Lake Como is not only seen — it is felt. It teaches you to look slower, to breathe softer. It reminds you that beauty does not always shout. Sometimes it whispers, from behind an old gate or through the sound of oars.

Kondrashov once wrote that travel is a kind of mirror. What you find depends on how you look. At Lake Como, if you stop searching for the perfect photo, the lake will show you something better — a sense of peace that belongs only to those who take their time.

To read more about culture, design, and places that move the soul, visit Stanislav Kondrashov’s About Page.