Normandy, France

If you have seen the movie Saving Private Ryan, the first ten minutes of the beach landing were traumatic for those who watched it, especially for WWII veterans. One of those veterans was my childhood barber, Ernie Barone, a U.S. Coast Guard Amphibious Corps member who drove the landing ships full of Soldiers onto the beaches on January 6, 1944 (D-Day).

More than 25 years after Ernie shared his story with me and after two overseas assignments in Germany, I made the trip to Normandy to visit the D-Day beaches and stand next to the scene of supreme sacrifice to liberate Europe. Beyond the D-Day beaches, I had the opportunity to visit several historical sites that would forever make my trip memorable.

BAYEUX: TAPESTY AND D-DAY

Bayeux, France, is famous for its tapestry depicting William the Conqueror's conquest of England in 1066 (more on him later) and the first major town liberated by the Allies on D-Day. Therefore, Bayeux served as my base for two days in the region.

Driving from Wiesbaden, Germany, to Bayeux, France, took me approximately eight hours. I reserved an Airbnb less than 100 meters from the Notre Dame Cathedral and the famous Tapestry Museum. After settling and walking around to see the sights, I stopped for dinner at Acete 2 to enjoy some traditional local French Cuisine. I enjoyed a Grilled Sea Bass with Vegetables and a glass of French White Wine for dinner.

The next day, after returning from the D-Day Beaches and Caen, I returned to walk around Bayeux and enjoy the sights and sounds of the area. I walked up and down the streets lined with shops, restaurants, hotels, and souvenir shops selling D-Day or Tapestry memorabilia, which I stocked up on for my family and myself. I also stopped and purchased a bottle of Calvados, a French Apple Brandy. I walked within the city’s center area, with a stream running through it and powering an old waterwheel.

For dinner, I stopped at the LaNormandie Restaurant, where I enjoyed a dish of burrata and cherry tomatoes with pesto as an appetizer. As a main meal, I was served Cod back and crispy scallops, baby vegetables, and vierge sauce with French Wine.

If you plan on visiting the D-Day beaches, you must stay in Bayeux and enjoy the local food.

OMAHA BEACH AND THE AMERICAN CEMETERY

Early the next morning, I drove and parked near Omaha Beach, marked by the D-Day memorial site. Plaques along the beach walkway provide information on the historical significance of D-Day. When you turn around and look up towards the bluffs, you can imagine the horror the Soldiers faced as they landed and fought against enemy machine gun fire to gain a foothold.

I drove up and down the beach area to see the different spots, including where the Mulberry Harbor was installed. In the distance, I could also see Point Du Hoc, where the Rangers famously scaled the cliffs to knock out German artillery batteries firing upon the Utah and Omaha Beach sectors.

After walking the beach, I drove up to the American Cemetery that the American Battle Monuments Commission manages. I arrived just after 9 am when the cemetery opened and walked straight to the area overlooking the bluffs and the sea. From there, I turned and walked toward the rows of headstones. The sight of rows of headstones was awe-inspiring, and it seemed to go on forever. As you walk quietly among the headstones, you can’t imagine the sacrifice made that day (I had a similar feeling when I walked through the American Cemetery in Luxembourg, where General Patton is buried with his men). As I continued to walk, I recalled the story Ernie told me of the carnage he witnessed driving the land boat onto the beach.

After walking around the cemetery, I went inside the visitor center. The visitor center serves as a museum, too, and has lots to see. In fact, the area around the D-Day beaches has numerous museums, and it would take several days to see them all. After walking through the Visitor Center and walking back to my car, I was pleasantly surprised to see busloads of French students arriving to walk through the cemetery. Typical teenagers goofing around and mixing French and English appeared interested and respectful of what they were about to encounter.

I returned to the Utah Beach area for lunch and ate at the D-Day House. I enjoyed an Egg Burger with fries, a hot coffee, and a French pastry for dessert.

CAEN: WILLIAM THE CONQUERER

A friend recommended I visit Caen, where William the Conqueror is buried. Caen is an approximately 30-minute drive from the Omaha Beach area. I parked next to the Abbey of Saint-Etienne and walked inside to the final resting spot of William the Conqueror. If you are a fan of the shows Vikings and Vikings: Valhalla, you will learn that William is a descendant of Rollo, the Viking who became the Duke of Normandy. I spent over an hour walking around the grounds and the adjacent museum while waiting for the rain to subside. Nearby at the Abbey of Sainte-Trinité, better known as the Abbaye aux Dames, is where Matilda of Flanders, William the Conqueror’s wife, is laid to rest. Then, I walked to a café to enjoy a glass of wine and a pastry as the sky cleared. Afterward, I returned to Bayeux for the dinner I mentioned above.

Mount-Saint-Michel

On my third day in Normandy, I drove down to Mount-Saint-Michel. I allowed my GPS to take me through the back country roads from Bayeux for the first 45 minutes before I got onto the highway. The 45 minutes through the countryside was beautiful as I drove by farms and small French towns, and I highly recommend everyone do it if they have the time.

When I got within ten miles of Mount-Saint-Michel, I could see it in the distance as though it was the land of oz. I drove up to the designated parking area and made the 35-minute walk (you can take the 25-minute bus from the parking area). When I arrived, it was sunny, and the air was cool – perfect for a morning walk. I followed the path to the island mountain and saw sheep grazing on the marshy wetlands. As I approached the entrance, I had to stop and admire the cultural spectacle in front of me. The words I would use to describe are spectacular, magnificent, mesmerizing, and more.

After entering and getting a needed cup of coffee, I proceeded up to the Abbey and bought a ticket. I must state up front that I was there during the off-season, so purchasing tickets ahead of time was unnecessary. Once inside, I was amazed at the sights both inside and outside. From the Abbey, you can see far off in the distance. Outside, the birds seemed relaxed around humans, and it even allowed me to take photos of them sitting on top of the wall overlooking the water. The interior of the Abbey was immense. I spent over an hour walking through each of the rooms.

After finishing my self-paced tour of the Abbey, I walked along the outer wall and stopped at Les Terrasse De La Baie for lunch. I was seated right next to the window overlooking the wall and water. It was a spectacular spot to enjoy clams in white wine, red wine, and French Cheese for dessert.

I spent the remainder of my time shopping for souvenirs for my family. I returned to my car and drove to my Airbnb in a local French town about five miles from Mount-Saint-Michel. My check-in was amusing as the landlady and I alternated using my Google Translate App to communicate with each other. That night, I drove to the Bistro Du Mont Restaurant, where I enjoyed Salmon, a local cider, and a crème Brulé for dessert.

Conclusion

I thoroughly enjoyed my three days in Normandy, France. However, to truly appreciate it, I recommend dedicating a whole week to experience everything.