Life’s a Breeze in Valdez, Alaska

During my Alaskan road trip, I was told the salmon were spawning in Valdez during August and that it is a must-see. Despite the backtracking, I caved and added it to my spontaneous itinerary. I’m glad I did. With shockingly beautiful glacial mountains, more fish than one can imagine, and a tragic historical past, there’s much intrigue to draw all kinds of folks to this special place.

Valdez is situated on the coast of Alaska, near Chugach National Forest and nearly 300 miles from Anchorage. I drove from Tok, along Highway 1, which turns into Highway 4 near Copperville. This is where the scenery goes from wild to breathtaking. There are gas stations, convenience stores, and roadhouses along the route that will keep both your tank and belly full. It took about five hours, including stops, to reach the coast.

My van and I have been on many drives, but none were as strikingly beautiful as this one. As soon as I got service I felt it was my duty to call my family and friends and let them know they needed to immediately add Valez to their bucket list.

The first night, I visited The Fat Mermaid for Rock Fish tacos. I easily found parking, but the restaurant was crowded with locals, tourists, and fishermen. Luckily, I managed to find a spot at the bar. Everyone seemed in good spirits, sharing fishing tips and travel stories.

As a notorious boondocker, I avoided the RV parks (aka parking lots) in town. I opted for a spot I found on airport road that was lit and had no signs prohibiting camping or overnight parking. It was relatively quiet until the morning when big trucks started going to work.

Day two brought history to life at the Valdez Museum. Tickets for adults were $12, with cheaper rates for seniors, youth, Alaskans, R.O.V.E., and active military. This ticket includes two museum locations; one along Egan Ave. and the other near the shoreline on Hazel Ave.

This museum will tell stories of the old town, the subsequent earthquake and tsunami, and the rebuild of Valdez in its new location. Known as the Good Friday 1964 earthquake, it is the strongest one to ever hit North America and the second strongest ever recorded. I highly recommend watching the movie at the blue museum on Hazel Ave. to hear harrowing first accounts of that day.

Tragedy struck again, however, this time man-made, in 1989 with the Exxon Valdez oil spill. The devastating environmental effects are still felt today, with over 10 million gallons of crude oil released into the Prince William Sound. The pain the community feels over this injustice is summed up well by Stan Stephenson, a Tour Boat Operator, who said, “I really don’t want to keep remembering the Exxon Valdez, but I think it’s very important that we do.”

I stopped for an Americano at the Coffee Co., which had free Wi-Fi and cute handmade gifts for sale. Food trucks are common as well, with anything from crepes to po-boys. I checked out the Boardroom during Gold Rush Days. It was a lively pub with many folks from overseas, such as the Dominican Republic, in attendance after finishing their shifts on their fishing boats.

I had no idea what to expect when visiting the hatchery on my way out of town on the third day. Blue skies and sun made for an exceptional viewing experience of the salmon and seals. The size of these mammals is substantial and cow-like, yet they glide through the water gracefully, sending schools of salmon into a frenzy. Watching the salmon climb the ladder is also a highlight you can’t miss.

Leaving was hard to do. I never went fishing or took a boat to see marine wildlife. But I had to keep some things a mystery because I plan on coming back next time with a friend in tow.

Have you visited Alaska? What are your favourite spots?