Indian Travel Diaries : Nagara, a Fort with a view.

The rains were upon us, and after a drive through the famed western ghats in the south-western part of India, one of the annual trips for mental detox was due.

The best way to do this is to choose one of the many ghats that line up from the south to the north of the western ghats (the Western ghats are a mountain range in India). The normal routine is to drive up and through these picturesque ghats from the elevated, hilly east and descend into a plateau. The flatter land will then die away slowly as it reaches the coastline in the west of India.

We are in the Shimoga region of Karnataka in the south of India. It has been a few days on the road, and it was time to go up the Hullickal ghat and descend into western coast town of Udupi, home to one of the most revered temples , the Sri Krishna temple. The morning is a sort of beautiful bluish-grey as the rain clouds hover above. It is raining in spells, but it is more of a drizzle. One look at the sky, and it is easy to judge that the mighty Sun didn’t stand a chance today; in fact, it hasn’t even had a fleeting peek for the past few days.

The wipers on the car can’t rest as the drizzle continues as we head westward. The roads glistened as they cut their way through heavy, green forest cover. The rains have enlivened the mountains, and they have sprung to life. Majestic trees stand drenched and dripping; their barks glisten as they wash away the grime off their skins. The smaller plants and the forest grass have all gained confidence as they sway, dance, stand tall, and smile away.

We drive past a vast lake, shining and brimming. A board on the road points to Nagara Fort. It's a fork to the left, which we take without a thought. The lesser road climbs, for a few minutes and you find yourself in front of the Nagara fort. It is deserted, and a massive gate with a lot of architectural carvings beckons you.

The Fort beckons.

When you go through the gates, you realize the magic of it all. It is a fort that has seen better times; however, what catches the eye is that it is carpeted in green. The rains have worked their stuff, and the whole ground is covered in a carpet of green grass. Many of the internal structures are in ruins. The walls are surprisingly sturdy; they were built with huge square-cut stones and are still in place. Wet and moss-covered, but solid.

Almost all of the outer periphery of the fort is intact, and as you approach it and stand on the top of the fort parapet, a magical sight unfolds itself.

Nature has put on its finest livery; miles and miles of forests stretch out to the horizon. The lake we passed looks spectacular from the height of the fort. There are a few more of them in the distance. The road we took is sparkling too, though one could do without the eyesore in the middle of a breathtaking view.

Nagara's history

With a history that stretches back to the 4th Century, this little fort has seen it all. Archives suggest that it was built by the Kadamba dynasty. More of a vantage point, it was, in tune with times, built with mud and timber.

Over the centuries, as many dynasties came and went, the Nagara Fort underwent numerous changes. The Chalukyas added stone construction and an architectural touch to it. The Hoysalas and the Vijayanagara Empire left their mark on its imposing walls and majestic structures. The increased strife between the local kingdoms meant the fort got fortified as a defensive and observation structure.

Around the 18th century, the fort lost its importance as the British moved into India. Ignored and not useful, the fort crumbled, having lost its battle to the inexorable march of time, and is now just a sad reminder of the glorious days in its past. Remnants of temples, palaces, and ornate gardens, covered in moss, lie around the fort.

We are still on the parapet, seated on the stones, looking out into the distance, soaking in the scene. Silence is supreme; the wind is the only one making noise, flapping our dresses and whistling around the walls. The rain picks up speed, and the drops gain weight, slanting across and enjoying a tango with the wind.

As we drop down from the walls and walk away, I look back and take another look. It's now dark and brooding in the distance. Nature was ready to unleash itself on this human endeavour and chip away as it always does.

The Nagara fort to me,  is yet another of those countless reminders of unrelenting nature and unstoppable time sweeping away everything that mortal man creates.

It is time to go, the Hullickal Ghat roads await us. Further down the hills, Udupi lies in wait.

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Sudhir Bhattathiripad

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