Finding the Backroads of France

So, how about really experiencing the backroads of France, and getting away from the heavily touristed cities and sites? There are ways to do it if you plan correctly.

1. Plan to go off season.

Your best best for France, as well as many locations in Europe, is to go off season. This means Spring (April-early June) or Fall (mid-September to mid or possibly late-October). Honestly, these can be the best periods for weather, too. Not as hot, and plenty of sun, especially in central or southern France.

2. Stay in an Airbnb near the small villages.

We stayed near Miers, France in a lovely Airbnb that had plenty of room (4 full bedrooms, 2 full baths, kitchen, living room and came with a small patio and pool) for $120 per night. We had the entire house, on a rural property that was shared with a house the hosts lived in (a comfortable distance behind us). Our location was very convenient to several locations we wanted to see and experience (Rocamadour, Collonges-la-Rouge, Saint-Cirqe-Lapopie, La Roque-Gageac, Martel).

3. Get adventurous.

Plan on being an adventurer. Some of our best experiences were riding bikes in the countryside, kayaking the Dordogne River, and hiking between Loubressac and Autoire.

Our Airbnb provided bikes (ok shape, no added cost) with helmets and we used them two days. On the first bike ride we traveled country roads, experiencing the beauty of well-groomed farms and countryside, wild red poppies, and riding about 12-15 KM. Yes, there were some hills and we are used to being on bikes. For those who like to bike, no sweat. For others, it is best to get in bike shape before you go too far.

Our second trip on a bike was a bit more adventurous and led us to a couple of nearby tiny villages. We wandered around, taking pictures and enjoying the sights, and rested in the second village, enjoyed a glass of beer before returning to our Airbnb.

Our hike from Loubressac to Autoire was wondrous and easy. No difficulties or strenuous climbing. The total distance was about 10 KM. The trail was fairly well-marked, too. We found the route on a website for local hikes (in French, we had to translate) and were able to follow the translated instructions. Incredibly, we didn’t meet another person on the route. As you can see from the picture below, the sights and scenery are spectacular.

Kayaking the Dordogne

Hiking in the Lot region

4. Learn from the locals.

In much of France, you will find weekly market days. Make sure and go! There are schedules you can find on travel websites (and local French sites) that identify what villages have markets, on which days. Many are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but there are a few on other days as well.

Don’t be intimidated by the language! We weren’t. Our command of French can be captured in a few phrases and words, that’s it. We struggle, but find most locals to be understanding (restaurants can be hit or miss). You will miss out on a great adventure as well as great food if you don’t try.

We were able to find fresh produce (carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, etc.) wine, cheese, bread, desserts (walnut cakes are popular in the Lot) and much more at reasonable prices. Bring cash (Euros).

Staying in an Airbnb made our trips to the market extra nice. We often ate a 3-course meal at lunch in the village we were visiting, and then have a lighter meal made from the fixings we picked up at the market. Delicious! That way, we weren’t traveling on unfamiliar roads at night, under the influence of wine, and we could have a more leisurely meal in our beautiful Airbnb setting. And what can be better than a quick meal of wine, cheese, bread, grilled veggies, fruits, and dessert. Win-win!

5. Embrace the quirks of travel, and enjoy the serendipities.

My wife and I have been to France several times, as well as other parts of Europe. On most every trip, we will have a glitch or two and yet we also have a few moments of serendipity too. We have learned to search out the serendipity, especially if we are experiencing a glitch! You will be amazed at the results. Let me explain.

We went searching for an art fair, based on our poor translation of a flyer we saw posted. We went to the town we thought the art fare was to be in, and found the town square deserted! So, we searched out a spot for lunch to contemplate our next move. During lunch, searching the web, we found out a very famous and lovely garden was close by, so we headed off there after lunch.

So, we never found the art fair, but we did find an unbelievable garden. Not a bad trade-off.

Our second experience was discovered during a lunch break. We were dining on an outdoor patio in Autoire, admiring the views to the mountains across the valley, when I discovered a “ruin” on the hillside. We did a bit of research and found out we could possibly walk to the ruins. The directions on the web talked about having to climb a “ladder,” which made my wife nervous. However, she was game to check it out.

There wasn’t a ladder. It could have been a poor translation of the hike, as there were “steps” in the route that were steep, but not treacherous. What a find! This excursion was one of our favorite, serendipity moments. (See picture, above, of Chateau Iglesias at start of article.)

Be open to such moments, expect a few detours, and they will, quite possibly, make the best memories of your trips.