Falling for Manuel Antonio: A Three-Day Love Story

I didn’t expect to fall madly, deeply in love with Manuel Antonio (the place, not the man!). Sure, I’d lusted after photos of its beaches and knew the national park was supposed to be spectacular, but I wasn’t prepared for how quickly this place would feel like home. Three days turned out to be nowhere near enough time in this corner of Costa Rica that surpasses all expectations.

Day 1: An Unexpected Welcome

Our hostel offered a free guided tour to a local waterfall on our first morning, and on a blistering hot day, we gratefully escaped into the shade of the trees. This was my favourite kind of walk — no manicured pathways, just hopscotching over stones across rivers and clambering over tree roots, our faces dappled in green pools of sunlight. We brought the hostel dog along, who was so completely in his element, skipping joyfully through the forest.

We reached the waterfall from above, where you could either jump down or take the tricky path along the side. I chose the path, which ended up being somewhat treacherous and even scarier than just jumping! But the morning was sweet and simple — just us, nature, and a dip in cool water.

Back at the hostel, hot and sticky, we surrendered to the afternoon. We showered, read our books, went to yoga class, and made friends. Even better, we made friends with the hostel puppies. The hostel partnered with a local animal shelter to foster dogs before adoption, and these adorable puppies were there, receiving constant play and attention from delighted travellers. Everyone was madly in love with them, and honestly, it seemed like a surprisingly wonderful environment for the pups.

After just one day, I couldn’t believe how at home I felt.

Day 2: The Day That Made Me Want to Stay Forever

This was my favourite day in all of Costa Rica. I could happily have stayed in Manuel Antonio for the rest of my life.

Manuel Antonio National Park was our entire reason for visiting, and for good reason.

The entrance surprised us — large man-made boardwalks that felt oddly separate from the surrounding nature, more zoo than national park. Fortunately, this didn’t last long. Soon we were back on woodland trails, surrounded by thick trees and all kinds of life.

Seeing our first sloth of the day filled me with joy. I love the way they lounge on tree branches as if they’re the most comfortable chaise lounges in the world. We climbed to a hidden viewing platform in a treehouse that overlooked white sand beaches peeking out from behind palm trees. We discovered a vulture stalking in the dirt and a bright tropical bird shining like a hidden gemstone.

But the stars of the show were the Capuchin monkeys — Joe nicknamed them the Ross Geller Monkeys. They moved with such grace and playfulness that we stood transfixed, huge smiles plastered on our faces. Watching a mother nurse her child while another baby explored the trees, attempting dangerous leaps, was pure joy. The braver ones performed full-blown acrobatics — climbing, jumping, playing, running across the branches, their very own jungle gym. I could have watched them all day. Their adorable plasticine cartoon-like faces, circled by fluffy white manes and striking against glossy black bodies with curled tails wrapped around branches — we couldn’t stop talking about how cute and special they were.

Then all our adoring chatter stopped when we saw the beach, and our jaws hung slack in astonishment.

The beach we’d been waiting for, the one we’d lusted after in photographs, was everything. A perfect, curved, bow-shaped bay of soft white sand cradling calm, clear turquoise water, sheltered by palm trees providing natural shade. It ticked every single box. We were so very happy there.

I felt rudely awakened from a pleasant dream when the staff ushered everyone away at closing time. If I could travel back in time, I would have arrived at the park as early as humanly possible to spend every minute I could in this place. I would have also stayed an extra day and visited a second time, we really couldn’t get enough of this magical place!

As we sadly trudged toward the exit, the park gave us a parting gift. Alone on a quiet path, we heard rustling. Peering through the maze of foliage, we spotted a deer and her fawn tentatively treading through the thicket. I loved the stillness and magic of this moment, just when we thought it was all over.

Day 3: A slice of local life

On our final day in Manuel Antonio, we headed to the main beach. It was busy, full of families having picnics and teenagers listening to music on small speakers. The vibe was completely different from yesterday’s beach, but still beautiful in its own way.

For sunset, we went to a restaurant I’d read about — one built inside an old airplane overlooking the ocean. The view of the phenomenal sunset was perfect, made even sweeter by an evening of entertainment watching Capuchin monkeys scramble over the roof and treetops. One even danced across the ceiling beams of the restaurant.

A Bittersweet Goodbye

Three days in Manuel Antonio taught me something about travel: sometimes a place doesn’t just impress you — it embraces you. From the fostered puppies at the hostel to the monkeys performing their aerial ballet to that deer appearing like a benediction, this corner of Costa Rica felt alive with generosity.

I arrived expecting beautiful beaches and good wildlife viewing. I left having found a place that felt like home after a single day, wishing I’d planned to stay much, much longer. If you’re planning a trip to Costa Rica, give Manuel Antonio more time than you think you need. Trust me — you’ll want it.

Thank you for reading! Hearts and tips are always welcome and your support is very much appreciated.

This story was originally published on Medium

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