Climbing The World’s Highest Tree Lookout

From the top of the world’s highest tree lookout one question floated on the surrounding tree tops: how can this—this vast expanse of massive looming gums, the tranquil winding rivers begging to be kayaked, hiking trails that in any other country would classify as a pilgrimage—how is this not iconic.

We arrived yesterday, Chelsea and I, at Drafty’s Campground. Set inside the Warren National Park in Western Australia (W.A.), Drafty’s seems a sweet spot with a river snaking its way through a thick gum forest. To just call this a gum forest is somewhat of an injustice. The Karri trees that rise up before you when you enter the national park are nothing if not striking. Densely set, climbing up to 90 metres up and perfectly straight there is an imperiousness about them, a permanence. We have be beach hopping for what seems like an eternity. I love the beach, but not in the way I love the bush. The love I have for the bush is settled deep inside me; no matter how much time I spend in or out of it I am never tired of it, I am always craving it. Perhaps the vastness of these trees seems only greater for having been in coastal scrub for so long, but perhaps regardless of anything else they are simply magnificent.

Despite my love of the bush, the driving force in us coming here was the weather and Chelsea. Chelsea has a similar love of place, but hers is to the beach. Almost nothing can drive her from it, but fortunately gale-force winds and the persistent threat of a thunderstorm while living in a tent can. Chelsea, after a good deal of searching through Wikicamps (for any campers out there, if you don’t have Wikicamps, it is the single best app for finding a good spot to pitch up) found Warren National Park and Drafty’s, where we could wait out the weather. We both knew of the Karri forests and the treetop walks in this area, but we only had a vague sense. Before we had left for W.A., we had done what any self-respecting tourist would do and looked the place up. We saw Karri forests and the treetop boardwalks and added them to our list. After spending months on the road through the middle of Australia and down the east coast, visiting some of the world renown landmarks and beaches along the way, our list has been constantly added to and ticked off or saved for next time as we have come and gone. Some places there was no way we would miss; too iconic, too beautiful to not visit. Uluru and Kata-Tjuta, the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef all too big to miss. The Karri forests in W.A. do not have that same immediate name recognition, and perhaps they shouldn’t they but they should be well above their current standing of low to mid-level tourist attraction.

What do think when you hear Western Australia? For most people, I’m guessing beaches. It is true what you have heard: there are none better. The sand is crisp, the water clear and turquoise. There is wild surf in the south and tropical heat in the north. Snorkelling, diving, boating, fishing, and sunbathing. Western Australia has it all along the coast. And not just the odd beach. Every stop you made, every five minutes in any direction is another beautiful place. From wild southern ocean around and silicon sands of Esperance to the wine region of Margaret River just north of where the Indian Ocean and the Southern Ocean meet, all the way up to Ningaloo Reef. There is a reason you have heard of these beaches. But why haven’t we all heard of the Karri forests? Among the tallest trees on earth! The highest tree lookout in the world.

These ancient Karri forests are only in the southwestern corner of Western Australia. An area known as the Warren Biogeographic Region. The peoples of the Noongar Nations are the traditional owners of these lands, having lived there for more than 45,000 years. There is fantastic history everywhere you look in this area. Magnificent underground caves, trees that are over 300 years old. You can feel the age of the forests as you walk. Not in tired, dusty way—you feel its permanence. Through these forests there are all sorts of activities. There is a tree top walk near Denmark. While pretty, this is not the main attraction for me. The caves between Augusta, Margaret River, and Yallingup are spectacular. Lake Cave near Margaret River has the world’s largest floating stalactite table that sits above an underground lake. That ranks highly on my list. But, for its sheer magnificence, its thrill, beauty and uniquely understated presence, the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree Climb hits the top of my list.

Set in the Warren National Park, surround by those glorious Karri trees the world’s tallest tree climb is absolutely not what you would expect. No harness, no net. 165 rebar posts inserted into the tree spiralling up 65m to an old fire lookout, old pig wire fencing along the side your only obvious safety feature. There is nothing flashy about this climb, but it deserves recognition for what it is. The climb is nerve racking—if you don’t do well with heights it is probably not for you unfortunately—the view is amazing, but best of all is the bit just before you reach the top. There are plenty of ways to look out over tall forests. There are points on mountains, from aeroplane or helicopter windows, but what is less common is being right on the treetop line. Looking through the tops of the trees—and not just any trees, these massive, beautiful Karris. Having worked your way up 60 metres, 5 to go, with sweaty palms and legs that feel like they are floating, looking across, looking down and up and being entirely surrounded by leaves. There is something unnaturally fantastic about that natural space.

The climb down is just as nerve racking as the climb up—more so even—but the second you are at the bottom and look up you are again filled with the wonder of these spectacular trees. There is that desire to go up again immediately. Chelsea, who does not fare well with heights, only made it up a few steps on her first attempt but came back the day after our first visit because the draw of the climb is intoxicating. She pushed through and climbed. The draw of the Karri was too strong.

We camped a few more nights in the forest and then went on our merry way. We stayed in the area for a good few months altogether and visited more of the beaches nearby, went through the caves and kayaked up the rivers, but the tree climb and the Karri forests held their place in my mind with such clarity that I came to wonder how they are not be more of an iconic regional destination than they are.

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