Camino de Santiago, Day 12 – 13

I’m here to dust off my notes from the Camino, dig deep into my memories – which I still cherish… – and give you all the belated updates.

After yesterday’s extra 4 km to Santovenia de Oca, today seemed like short and easy. We were a bit off track so I had to ask the hospitalero how can we go to Burgos. He said there are 2 different ways from here, one is a bit longer and harder, through Atapuerca and the small villages and the other one goes next to the main road.

We chose the easy route, which I regret a bit now, looking back on it. It really goes all the way next to the cars – safely tho’ as it was a concrete walking path. Very loud, very boring, very hot during the summer days, and not much to see around. As you reach the outside skirts of Burgos, you arrive at a huge industrial area. Full of warehouses, more and more traffic, truck stops and everything. It’s not a pleasant scenery, honestly, and going through it takes a good hour before you start to reach the city.

Meanwhile, at the other route, you have Atapuerca. There’s an archeological site there – which you can visit – and it contains the earliest human remains in Europe, from nearly one million years ago. Enough said already, I think you are convinced. I love history, and hell there’s quite a piece of history lying there. If I could go back, I would probably have a rest day in Atapuerca and book a visit.

You can read all about this place here: Atapuerca Project

Either route you choose, slowly but surely you will arrive at Burgos and its medieval walls. Most likely you will – actually, you should… – enter through Arco de Santa Maria which is the main gate to the old town. After crossing the bridge and the gate, it’s pretty hard to miss probably the sight of the Cathedral – one of the most impressive in Spain and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sadly, there was a huge queue in front of the cathedral when we arrived… And the day after when I intended to go in again, it was a wedding… – which I didn’t want to crash – so unfortunately I missed out on the inside visit.

I had a rest day in Burgos, so after we arrived and checked in to the hostel we took it eeeeeaaaaaasyyy. I went for a quick spin in the old town, but I left most of the sightseeing for tomorrow… because it was time to settle for dinner.

The food in Burgos is – as usual since we are in Spain … – is truly amazing. There’s a local dish you need to try, it is called Morcilla de Burgos. It’s a sausage made with – … vegetarian readers, please look away… – mostly pork blood. As a Hungarian, it’s not really shocking for me. Actually, we have our own, sometimes questionable, gastronomical choices. My peeps from England might recognize it as something similar to black pudding, and there goes a mini shout-out to Scotland, and their Haggis too which is similar just add a bit more bits and pieces.

…Okay, now that I probably lost the majority of my vegetarian subscribers… I wanna recommend you Cervecería Morito if you want to eat well in Burgos. We went back to this place both days for dinner.

One of the many good things about Spain, you see… are these aquarium-sized wine glasses filled with tinto de verano – or sangria if you wish… and if you are a true guiri 🤫

After dinner, it was time for a well-deserved rest. The next day I woke up with no rush and then headed out for some sightseeing … cuz obviously I needed that 12 km in my stepcount, instead of resting.

Burgos is beautiful, it’s a mix of medieval charm and modern vibes. I can’t get enough of the old town – the little streets, the buildings… I love it. The walls can be followed relatively easily, and there are still many well-preserved remains.

The Arco de San Juan is one of the entrances of the city, as well as the Arco de San Martín, the door of the Jewish quarter, and as I mentioned earlier, the main one is Arco de Santa María. – more about these here

Just outside the old city walls of Burgos, you will find the remains of the great San Juan Monastery, and you can take a walk on Paseo del Espolón.

Casa Del Cordón and Plaza Mio Cid are worth a mention here, you can easily find them while just strolling around a bit in the city center. The castle is also worth a visit and the nearby Mirador del Castillo. If you’re up for the hike – remember, I warned you…

My Camino friend Clemens visited the Human Evolution Museum in the “modern” part of the city. He said it was amazing, and the area itself is really cool to explore and walk around – but I had no time and energy left in me at the end of my “rest day”…

After my big lunch, I wasn’t too hungry, my original plan was to head back to the hostel. But after Clemens messaged me that the gang was in Cervecería Morito I couldn’t do anything else but take a sudden turn and go back for another one of those aquariums – duh… – strictly to help me sleep better.

See you next time,

Buen Camino

Noemi