Bookish Travels: Edinburgh

Of all the things I long for during lockdown, today I miss being able to browse second-hand bookshops most of all. So, as a wistful reminder, I thought I'd share an article I wrote about a bookish trip to Edinburgh back in spring 2019...

Armchair Books

Located in the winding stone streets of West Port – something of a book-lover’s haven in the city – Armchair Books possesses a very quaint and romantic allure. Its façade alone seems to be flung from some kind of fiction-fanatic’s fairytale, and the interior is no less charming.

Inside, the shop bursts with battered second-hand paperbacks and antiques, all arranged in wonderfully clumsy clusters and cluttered shelves. The walls are strewn with posters, pictures, photographs, stuffed toys, model aeroplanes – an eclectic array of mystery and charm.

Armchair is way larger than it first looks, too. It’s an absolute labyrinth, boasting an astonishingly large collection of treasures, ceiling to floor. The fiction section was a genuine odyssey (in a good way), while surrounding shelves offer troves for readers of all tastes: poetry, thrillers, mystery, fantasy, art, philosophy, literary criticism, history, natural history, science, children’s books…

I must say, though, that it’s Armchair’s collection of antiquarian books which make it so memorable. There were some absolutely amazing finds – from the banal to the breath-taking – and they were all absolutely stunning to look at and to hold. A little on the pricier side, of course, but they really were treasures.

Armchair’s books aren’t too pricey in general, though. Customers might pay roughly around £3-4 for a paperback, and they are all genuinely excellent, perhaps slightly worn in quality. Armchair also offers a 20% student discount, which was a wonderful surprise when I reached the counter. Plus, they sell an adorable Armchair Books tote bag, just in case – as I actually overheard someone lament during my visit – a customer accidentally picks up £70-worth of books to lug home…

Despite Armchair’s charm, I should mention some minor issues: the shop is seriously cramped. Like, I would not be surprised if a fair few customers have been physically unable to walk through, or have found it far too claustrophobic to even consider. This is definitely worth remembering if you consider a trip here. I don’t personally struggle with issues of claustrophobia or anxiety, but even I got pretty frustrated and weary of jostling past other customers every 20 seconds. Perhaps it would be best to avoid visiting on weekends.

Besides this, though, Armchair books is practically and aesthetically faultless, and unbelievably charming. I highly recommend it to any book-lover wanting to while away an hour or two in this beatific city.

Tills Bookshop

On our final day in Edinburgh, we journeyed up to the east end of the Meadows – a picturesque gem of sprawled stone streets and gorgeously imposing terraced buildings beneath Arthur’s Seat – to find Tills Bookshop. Another independent, second-hand bookshop, Tills is a smaller, though far less cramped alternative to its West Port counterpart.

Upon entering, customers find themselves in a bright, wide room, with all four of its walls lined with refreshingly orderly shelving. A further delve inside, past the shop’s cosy curtained counter, and shoppers will find themselves in a somewhat smaller room. Here, books line the walls once more, save the far wall which boasts an old fireplace. In its center, there is a rogue, diagonal bookshelf serving as something of an island. Ladders are also made available to customers who want to have a nosy at the books lined close to the ceiling.

Despite its size, Tills boasts a great selection. There is a large array of fiction dominating two walls, with a separate classics section, foreign literature, and even some shelves dedicated to poetry. It offers a wonderful range of thrillers, mysteries, pulp fiction, LGBTQ+ fiction, science fiction, women’s fiction and African-American fiction – even screenplays. For non-fiction lovers, there is an astonishingly wide range to choose from: history, art, natural sciences, music, philosophy, anthropology, sociology, self-help – basically every conceivable topic! Unusually, there is even a solid selection of comic books and graphic novels, too.

While it lacks the classic ‘cramped charm’ of stereotypical second-hand bookshops, it has a very singular, unforgettable style: classic film posters plaster the walls, as well as Time magazine covers, vinyl sleeves and old photographs. Mysterious speakers also play classical music for customers as they browse, which is quite strange at first, but very atmospheric.

The best part of Tills, though – by an absolute mile – was its owner. I failed to catch his name, but he is a timid, grey-haired man who flits in and out between his desk and shelves, answering every and any question in a gentle, lilting American accent. He was endlessly helpful, personable, knowledgeable and accommodating. A real delight.

Though Tills does not offer a student discount, its price range is around the same as Armchair – most of the paperbacks I prised from its shelves were marked to around £4, and they’re all of brilliant quality. I absolutely implore any bookish traveller to pop inside if they are passing by, for its relative obscurity – rendering it a tad less cramped and stressful than others in the city – and its wide and meticulous collections, but above all for its friendliness and unique charm.