Backcountry Backpacking the Lakeshore Trail in the Smoky Mountains: A True Test of Grit

I just returned from a 3-day backpacking backcountry trip in the Smoky Mountains. For those who love the Smokies, the call of the wilderness is irresistible. Winding footpaths, hidden campsites, and the promise of solitude pull hikers deep into one of the most beloved national parks in the country. Among the network of more than 900 miles of official trails, a handful stand out as true tests of endurance and patience. The Lakeshore Trail is one of them.

I am currently working toward joining the 900 Miler Club, an informal but respected community of hikers who have completed every trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Fewer than one thousand people are known to have accomplished it. With just about 150 miles left, I have seen the highs and lows of what this park has to offer. But I can honestly say the Lakeshore Trail is one of the toughest hikes I have ever tackled, despite the books and blogs that paint it as the easiest long trail in the Smokies. Let me be clear: this trail will kick your butt.

The Lakeshore Trail stretches roughly 33 miles point to point, starting near the infamous Road to Nowhere tunnel outside of Bryson City, North Carolina, and ending at Fontana Dam. On paper, the description sounds manageable: rolling terrain, access to water, campsites along the way, and a route that parallels Fontana Lake. Many descriptions present it as an easy long-distance hike, perfect for trail runners, section hikers, and backpackers. But the truth on the ground tells a very different story.

The trail is remote, underused, and less maintained than many others in the park. For casual hikers who wander a mile or two past the tunnel and then turn back, it might feel like a pleasant stroll. But for those who attempt the entire route, especially with overnight packs, it quickly transforms into a grueling test of stamina, navigation, and mental toughness.

If you picture a lakeside walk with gentle terrain, think again. The Lakeshore Trail is a relentless series of ups and downs. Flat stretches are rare, and every time you get a reprieve, another climb or descent is waiting around the bend. These are not long, dramatic ascents like you might find on the Appalachian Trail, but the accumulation of short, steep climbs drains your energy mile after mile. By the time you are deep into day two, the constant elevation shifts take a toll on knees, ankles, and hips. Even experienced hikers accustomed to long days in the mountains will find themselves humbled. Personally, I have hiked from Springer Mountain in Georgia to the Grayson Highlands of Virginia on the Appalachian Trail, a challenging stretch in its own right, and I still felt more beat up after three days on the Lakeshore Trail.

Navigation adds another layer of difficulty. The trail is poorly signed, and junctions can be confusing. Spurs that count toward the 900 Miler Club add unexpected mileage. In places you will find yourself questioning whether you are still on the right path. Blowdowns, massive fallen trees, often obscure the route entirely. Some are so large you have to take off your pack just to crawl over them, while others force you into an awkward limbo beneath their trunks. Add in slippery acorns scattered like marbles across the ground, and it feels more like an obstacle course than a hiking trail.

One of the saving graces of the Lakeshore Trail is its wild beauty. The path meanders through quiet forests, across creeks, and near sections of shoreline that few people ever see. Solitude is almost guaranteed. On my trip, we saw only three other hikers over three days. Wildlife encounters are frequent. Birds, deer, and small mammals are common companions. Near Campsite 81, signs of wild boars become obvious. Rooted earth and torn patches of ground show where they have been, though thankfully we never crossed paths with one. In this isolated stretch of backcountry, you are reminded that you are a visitor in a place that belongs to the wild.

Water sources are plentiful, but a filter or purifier is essential. Campsites are another story. Many of the designated backcountry sites along Lakeshore Trail are overgrown and rugged. Do not expect manicured tent pads or easy fire rings. This is rough camping at its core. You will want a solid backcountry setup, including multiple ways to start a fire, because most of the wood is damp and reluctant to burn. Permits are required for camping, so you must reserve sites in advance. The remoteness of the trail often means you will have your campsite entirely to yourself, which is both a blessing and a challenge.

The small challenges along the way wear you down. Acorns underfoot make descents feel like skating on marbles. Fallen trees force repeated pack off maneuvers. Damp wood turns fire building into frustration. And then there are the chiggers. After more than 15 years of hiking and backpacking, I have never had bites like I did after this trip. These tiny pests are easily overlooked when planning, but once you have been through the Lakeshore Trail in summer, you will never forget them. Combine all of this with the constant climbs and the fatigue sets in fast. By the end of our hike, I felt more physically punished than on any other multi day trek I have ever attempted.

Another surprise was the distance. Officially, the Lakeshore Trail is listed as 33 miles long. But if you hike it, you may find yourself questioning that number. My own calculations suggested it was much longer, especially when factoring in the spur trails that must be completed to count toward the 900 Miler Club. Just when you think you are making progress, you realize you have more miles to cover than expected. Mentally, this can be draining and is another reason the trail should not be underestimated.

The bookends of the trail add to its unique character. The starting point at the Road to Nowhere tunnel outside of Bryson City is an abandoned project from the 1940s that has become both a curiosity and a trailhead. Many day hikers walk through the tunnel and onto the first mile or two, enjoying an easy out and back stroll before returning. At the other end lies Fontana Dam, a striking and historic structure that also serves as a gateway for Appalachian Trail thru hikers. Connecting these two landmarks gives the Lakeshore Trail a sense of continuity, linking modern history with wild backcountry.

So, who should attempt the Lakeshore Trail? In my experience, it is best suited for seasoned backpackers prepared for adversity. This is not the place for beginners or casual hikers to attempt a first multi day trek. If you are used to rough conditions, can handle route finding, and thrive in solitude, then this trail offers a rewarding challenge. The isolation is profound, the scenery is untouched, and the sense of accomplishment is immense. But you must prepare for obstacles, discomfort, and unpredictability.

Preparation is everything. Carry a detailed map, GPS, and compass. Do not rely on signage. Bring at least three methods of fire starting because the wood is damp. Wear long pants and use permethrin treated clothing to fight off chiggers. Sturdy boots with excellent traction are essential because acorns and slick ground make footing treacherous. A reliable filter or purifier is a must for water. Be ready to remove and put back on your pack repeatedly to climb over blowdowns. Most importantly, prepare yourself mentally. This hike is harder than it looks on paper. Patience and persistence are your greatest allies.

The Lakeshore Trail is not the easy Smokies hike that some resources claim. It is a bruising, humbling journey that tests even seasoned hikers. Yet for those willing to endure the obstacles, it is also an unforgettable experience. Solitude, wildlife, rugged wilderness, and the satisfaction of conquering one of the park’s longest and most misunderstood trails await. Go into it with eyes wide open, respect for the backcountry, and the preparation to survive whatever the Lakeshore throws your way.

For me, this trail was a reminder that the Smokies still have wild, untamed corners where hikers can feel truly tested. As I edge closer to completing all 900 miles, the Lakeshore Trail stands out as one of the hardest and most memorable sections of the journey.