The Ultimate Guide to Dress Shirt Collars

If you’ve ever looked at dress shirts and thought, Why are there so many collar styles, and why should I care?—you’re in the right place. The truth is, the right collar can make or break your look. But don’t worry, I’ve got you covered.

Whether heading to the office, a business dinner, or a wedding, choosing the right dress shirt collar isn’t about being a fashion expert—it’s about knowing what works for you. And let’s be real: Off-the-rack shirts just don’t get it right. They either choke you out or leave you looking like you borrowed someone else’s shirt. That’s why bespoke, custom, and made-to-measure shirts are the only way to go.

Let’s break it down.

1. The Classic Collar – Your No-Fuss, Go-To Choice

Best for: Everyday business wear, smart casual

Also known as the Kent collar, this is your reliable, no-nonsense collar. It’s a medium spread, meaning it works with or without a tie. If you want a foolproof option that always looks good, the Classic collar is it. Think of it as the white sneakers of dress shirt collars—versatile, clean, and effortless.

Wear it with:

• A business suit and tie for work
• A smart casual blazer with an open collar for dinners and networking events
• Anything—really, you can’t go wrong

2. The Cutaway Collar – The Modern Power Move

Best for: A bold, confident look

The cutaway collar is wider than the Classic collar, meaning the points angle outwards. This is a powerful, modern choice—ideal if you wear ties often because it pairs perfectly with a full Windsor knot. If you want to look like a guy who knows what he’s doing (even if you don’t), go for this.

Wear it with:

• A sharp, tailored suit and a bold tie
• A well-fitted dress shirt and no tie for an effortless but put-together look
• Confidence—this one makes a statement

3. The Button-Down Collar – The Laid-Back Classic

Best for: Business casual, smart weekend looks

Button-down collars have small buttons securing the collar points to the shirt, making them slightly more casual. If you’re the kind of guy who wants a shirt that works for both Zoom calls and weekend brunch, this is your collar.

Wear it with:

• A blazer and chinos for an easygoing, professional look
• A sweater layered over your shirt for a classic preppy vibe
• No tie—it’s more relaxed and doesn’t need one

4. The Mao Collar – The Minimalist’s Dream

Best for: Casual, modern, and stylish outfits

The Mao or Mandarin collar is short and band-like, with no collar flaps. It’s a great choice if you don’t wear ties but still want to look sharp. If you’re going for an effortlessly stylish look without trying too hard, this is a solid pick.

Wear it with:

• A tailored suit jacket for a cool, modern twist
• Linen or lightweight dress shirts for summer evenings
• A confident, less-is-more attitude

Why Bespoke or Made-to-Measure Shirts Are the Only Way to Go

Here’s the thing: A collar is only as good as the fit of the shirt it’s on. It doesn’t matter if you pick the perfect style—if your shirt is too tight, too loose, or just plain uncomfortable, it won’t work.

Why should you go custom?

• Perfect Fit – No more guessing your size or dealing with awkward, baggy shirts.
• Better Quality – Tailor-made shirts last longer, fit better, and feel amazing.
• Your Style, Your Choice – Pick the exact collar, fabric, and fit you want—no compromises.

Think about it: You wouldn’t settle for a one-size-fits-all suit, so why settle for an off-the-rack dress shirt?

Final thoughts

Choosing the right dress shirt collar doesn’t have to be complicated. Keep it simple:

Want a classic, no-fail option? Go for the Kent collar.

Want a bold, modern look? Try the Cutaway collar.

Want something casual but sharp? The Button-Down collar is your best bet.

Want to keep it minimalist and sleek? The Mandarin collar is the one.

And remember—fit is everything. If you want to look sharp, comfortable, and confident without spending hours shopping, a made-to-measure dress shirt is the best investment you can make.

Now go on, get yourself a shirt that actually fits. Your future well-dressed self will thank you.