Lifehack logo

What to Look for When Buying Your First eBike

Everything You Need (and Nothing You Don’t) Before You Ride Off Electric

By Deborah FergusonPublished 7 months ago 5 min read
What to Look for When Buying Your First eBike
Photo by KBO Bike on Unsplash

So… you're finally doing it. You're entering the electric bike world. Welcome! You're now one step closer to speeding past traffic like a smug superhero on two wheels, and no, you won’t even break a sweat doing it.

Buying your first eBike is exciting, but let’s be honest; it can also feel like trying to pick a phone plan while blindfolded in a maze. Motors? Watt-hours? Torque? Uhh… what now?

Don’t worry. I’ve been there. I’ve also made a few rookie mistakes (we’ll get to those), and I want to help you skip the regrets and roll straight into eBike bliss.

Let’s break it down:

Types of eBikes: What Kind of Rider Are You?

First things first: you gotta know your vibe. What do you actually need the bike for?

Commuter eBikes

These are built for smooth city rides. Lightweight-ish, usually with fenders and racks. Perfect for dodging traffic and parking drama.

Mountain eBikes (eMTBs)

Big tires. Beefy shocks. Great if you plan on tearing through trails or pretending you’re in an action movie.

Cargo eBikes

Got kids? Groceries? A dog that insists on coming everywhere? Get a cargo bike. They’re like minivans with pedals. (Yes, I just said that.)

Folding eBikes

Live in an apartment? Ride to the train station? These babies fold up like origami and fit into tight spaces.

Cruiser eBikes

Casual weekend vibes. Wide seats, relaxed posture. Think boardwalk, not Tour de France.

Tip: If you don’t know which one you are, you’re probably a commuter or a casual rider, start there.

Motor Type: Mid-Drive vs Hub Motor (Don't Zone Out Yet)

This part sounds nerdy, but it actually matters, especially if you don’t want your bike to feel like a scooter from a 2005 college campus.

Hub Motor (Rear or Front)

Sits in the wheel hub.

Pushes (rear) or pulls (front) the bike.

Cheaper and simpler.

Not great for hills.

Mid-Drive Motor

Placed near the pedals, powers the crank.

Better balance, more torque, smoother uphill.

Pricier but worth it if you deal with steep climbs or want a natural pedaling feel.

IMO, mid-drives ride more like real bikes. Hub motors are fine for flats, but they can feel... twitchy. Kinda like riding with a ghost giving you a gentle shove.

Battery Basics: Watt-Hours = How Far You’ll Go

Here’s where most newbies mess up. Bigger battery = longer ride, but it's not that simple.

Look at the "Wh" (watt-hours). That tells you how far you’ll go on a full charge.

300-500 Wh: Short commutes (20-40 km)

500-700 Wh: Medium rides or hilly areas

700+Wh: Long distances or if you hate charging

Some batteries are removable (yay, easy charging). Others are built-in (boo, garage-only charging). I learned that the hard way when I had to drag my whole eBike into the hallway just to reach a plug. Not cute.

FYI: Cold weather can suck the life out of your battery faster than Monday mornings.

Fit & Frame Style: It’s Gotta Feel Right

Ever tried riding a too-big bike? Yeah, it's about as fun as jeans that won’t button.

Step-Through Frame

No high bar. Easy to hop on and off. Ideal if you’re short, wearing a skirt, or just don’t like karate-kicking your leg over the seat.

Step-Over Frame

Traditional. Slightly more stable for rougher rides.

Size Matters

Ask for sizing help. Or Google it. Don’t guess based on your height and “vibes.” Trust me.

Suspension or Nah?

Front suspension: Softens the blow on curbs and potholes.

No suspension: Lighter and cheaper for smooth paths.

Weight: Can You Actually Carry This Thing?

Spoiler alert: eBikes are heavy. Like, gym-membership heavy.

Light eBike: 35-45 lbs (usually folding ones)

Regular eBike: 50-70 lbs

Cargo eBike: 80+ lbs (good luck if the battery dies halfway up a hill)

Don’t just think about riding, think about carrying it upstairs, loading it into your car, or lifting it onto a rack. If you skip this, your back will hold a grudge.

Must-Have Features for Beginners

When I bought my first eBike, I focused on motor specs and totally ignored the basics. Then I had to duct-tape a flashlight to my handlebars 😬

Look for these:

Integrated lights (front and back)

Fenders (so your butt stays dry)

Rear rack (bags, baskets, backpacks)

Kickstand (you will need it)

LCD Display (battery level, speed, mode)

Pro tip: Bells are cool again. Get one. Make it loud.

Price Range: What You Get at Every Level

Let’s talk cash. You don’t have to sell a kidney, but don’t go too cheap either. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Under $1000

Entry-level

Short battery life, no-name parts

Usually hub motors

Good for flat commutes or testing the waters

$1000–$2500

Best balance of quality and price

Mid-drive options appear

Better range, stronger build

Good support and warranties

$2500+

Premium build, branded parts

More range, torque, and comfort

Fancy screens, apps, tracking, etc.

Honestly, I spent around $1800 on mine and still feel like I scored. Just don’t cheap out on brakes or battery-unless you like living dangerously.

Safety & eBike Laws: Don't Get Caught Slippin’

I know, rules aren’t sexy, but hear me out.

Helmets: Some places require ‘em, some don’t. Wear one anyway. Your brain deserves it.

Speed limits: Class 1/2 eBikes usually top out at 20 mph (32 km/h). Class 3 can hit 28 mph.

Where to ride: Not all parks or bike paths allow eBikes,check before you roll up like a rebel.

Quick note: Some insurers now cover eBikes. If you just dropped 3K on a ride, maybe don’t leave it unlocked with a smiley face emoji.

Where to Buy: Online vs Local

Online Retailers:

More options

Often cheaper

No test rides though

Local Shops:

Test rides = priceless

Can help with sizing

Service and warranty support

If you're the “I wanna feel it before I commit” type, go local. If you know what you want and have done your homework (ahem, like reading this), online can save you some bucks.

Rookie Mistakes I’ve Made So You Don’t Have To

Let’s call this the “Don’t Be Me” list:

Bought the wrong frame size: My knees still hold a grudge.

Ignored range estimates: Battery died halfway through a ride. I pushed 65 lbs home. Uphill. In August.

Didn’t check if it fit on my car rack: Yeah. That was fun.

Skipped lights: Riding in the dark with a flashlight taped to your head is not peak coolness.

Final Buying Checklist

Here’s your quick-hit cheat sheet before you swipe that card:

Choose the right eBike type (commuter, cargo, etc.)

Decide on motor: mid-drive or hub

Check battery range (watt-hours!)

Make sure the frame fits you

Weigh the bike, literally

Look for key features: lights, fenders, rack

Know your local laws

Set your budget and avoid under-buying

Test ride if you can

Read reviews, compare brands

Final Thoughts

Buying your first eBike isn’t rocket science. It’s just about knowing what matters, avoiding the flashy gimmicks, and picking something that fits your lifestyle (and your backside).

So take a breath. Think about how you’ll use it. Test ride a few. And whatever you do, get a good helmet.

And hey, when you finally zoom past your first traffic jam while grinning like a maniac, think of me.

Now go ride something electric. You’ve earned it.

techtravelcrafts

About the Creator

Deborah Ferguson

Content Creator.

Reader insights

Be the first to share your insights about this piece.

How does it work?

Add your insights

Comments

There are no comments for this story

Be the first to respond and start the conversation.

Sign in to comment

    Find us on social media

    Miscellaneous links

    • Explore
    • Contact
    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms of Use
    • Support

    © 2026 Creatd, Inc. All Rights Reserved.