Comme des Garçons The Art of Anti-Fashion
Comme des Garçons

The Comme des Garçons is not just a brand - it is a challenge for a philosophy, a movement and fashion criteria. Built by Japanese designer Ri Kavakubo in 1969, Com Des Garcons (French for "Like Boys") re -defined what is meant for dress, design and disintegration. In a world where fashion is often decided by trends and seasonal aesthetics, Kavakubo's label is different as a stronghold of ideological artistry and radical innovation.
Original and development
Ri Kawakubo, born in Tokyo in 1942, did not start as a traditional designer. With a background in fine arts and literature, he contacted not as clothes but as creative expressions. In 1969, he founded the Com Des Garcons in Tokyo, and until 1973, it became an official company. The early collections were primarily black, asymmetrical, and disintegrated - enhancing the idea of beauty and femininity which dominated both western and eastern fashion.
In 1981, Com Des Garcons made his Paris debut. The collection surprised critics and spectators CDG equally. The model went down from the runway in clothes which appeared torn, missing and incomplete. Kawakubo intended to be traditionally not to make flattery fabrics, but to instigate, question and offer a new aesthetic vocabulary.
Deconduction and "lumps" year
One of the major contributions of Com Des Garcons for fashion is the idea of decomposition. Borrowed from architectural and philosophical concepts, decomposition in fashion refers to the rupture of traditional dress structures. This may include exposed seams, odd silhouettes, incomplete hem or clothes that challenge body size.
The Comme Universe: Guerrilla Stores and Diffusion Lines
Comme des Garçons has grown into a multi-faceted fashion empire, but unlike other luxury brands, it has done so on its own terms. One of the most innovative concepts was the "Guerrilla Store"—temporary retail spaces opened in unexpected locations like Berlin, Warsaw, and Reykjavik. These stores would appear for one year only, in raw, unfinished spaces, reinforcing the brand’s ethos of impermanence and disruption.
The brand also has numerous diffusion lines and collaborations, including:
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus – Avant-garde menswear shown in Paris.
Comme des Garçons SHIRT – A more accessible line, focused on shirting and streetwear.
PLAY Comme des Garçons – Known for its heart logo designed by Filip Pagowski, this line has become a pop culture icon, especially through collaborations with Converse and other brands.
CDG A streetwear-inspired sub-label introduced in 2018.
These offshoots have allowed Comme des Garçons to maintain its artistic integrity while also expanding into mainstream markets.
Collaborations: Art Meets Commerce
Comme des Garçons is known for its unlikely and often high-impact collaborations. These partnerships range from mass-market brands to high art institutions. Notable collaborations include:
Nike – Avant-garde sneakers that merge performance and design.
Supreme – Streetwear collabs that sell out instantly.
Converse – The heart logo Chuck Taylor sneakers are a global favorite.
LouisVuitton – High-fashion collaborations that marry heritage with experimentalism.
Perfume – CdG fragrances, particularly the original Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum, broke perfume norms by introducing scents like tar, ink, and burnt rubber.
Gender and Identity
Comme des Garçons has always pushed the boundaries of gender expression. Kawakubo has consistently blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear, rejecting traditional gender binaries. Her garments are often oversized, minimalistic, or abstract, allowing wearers to interpret the clothing on their own terms.
This approach has resonated deeply with artists, intellectuals, and those in the LGBTQ+ community who see CdG not just as clothing, but as a form of self-expression.
Influence on Fashion and Culture
Kawakubo’s work has influenced countless designers, from Martin Margiela to Yohji Yamamoto, John Galliano, and even modern streetwear designers. Her emphasis on concept over commercial appeal has inspired a generation to see fashion as more than clothing—it’s a medium.
Moreover, Comme des Garçons has played a pivotal role in bringing Japanese avant-garde fashion to the global stage. Alongside Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, Kawakubo helped establish Tokyo as a fashion capital and demonstrated that innovation could come from outside the traditional fashion centers of Paris, Milan, and New York.
The Legacy and Future of Comme des Garçons
At over 80 years old, Rei Kawakubo shows no signs of slowing down. Her runway shows are still some of the most anticipated during Paris Fashion Week. Though cryptic and abstract, her collections continue to push boundaries, explore philosophical themes, and resist commercialization.
In recent years, her protégé Junya Watanabe, who started at Comme des Garçons, and Kei Ninomiya of Noir Kei Ninomiya have expanded the CdG family tree, carrying on Kawakubo’s tradition of experimentation and innovation.
In a fashion world that increasingly prioritizes commercial viability, Comme des Garçons remains a rare force that prizes authenticity, artistry, and disruption. It challenges wearers and viewers alike to reconsider the meaning of fashion itself.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons is not about looking pretty or fitting in—it’s about standing out, asking questions, and breaking rules. Under Rei Kawakubo’s visionary leadership, the brand has carved out a unique place in fashion history. Whether through its deconstructed garments, abstract runway presentations, or wildly popular sneakers, Comme des Garçons continues to redefine what it means to be stylish, original, and unapologetically different.



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