Oyster vs Jubilee: Which bracelet does the Rolex GMT-Master II look better on?

Born in 1954, the Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most iconic luxury watches that has ever existed, thrilling both watch enthusiasts and collectors for decades. Having built a reputation from its dual time zone functionality and artful design, this timepiece has become a symbol of elegance and functionality. However, one pivotal detail that’s more oft debated among Rolexcally inclined folks is which bracelet — the sporty Oyster or the thespian Jubilee — bestows more appeal to the GMT-master II.

This blog has been designed to cover the crucial contrasts between the two, their respective histories, and their general impact across the GMT-Master II. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or you’re just window shopping, this guide will help you determine which bracelet is king of the hill for this beloved Rolex reference.

The Rolex GMT-Master II, For A Crazy Price

The original Rolex GMT-Master II was released to the market in 1982, and it quickly established itself as one of the brand's signature timepieces. Because it can track a second time zone, the watch caters to professional aviators and world travelers, and achieves functional and aesthetic excellence in doing so.

What really takes the GMT-Master II up another notch is the fact that it can be combined with two of Rolex's legendary bracelets: the Oyster and the Jubilee. Each design provides a very different lens on Rolex’s execution, and its respective styles can change the character of the watch. So how do these bracelets stack up in the GMT-Master II context?

Let’s examine the particulars to see why.

The Development and Aesthetic of the Oyster Bracelet

Arguably the most identifiable design in the Rolex catalog, the Oyster bracelet is timeless. The three-link bracelet, meanwhile, was introduced in the late 1930s and designed for durability and versatility. Having flat, broad links with a simple design, the Oyster bracelet proved to be an immediate success among professionals who depended on its reliability in challenging conditions.

The Oyster bracelet is the standard on many Rolex sports models today, and it makes sense that the GMT-Master II would be no different. Its rugged build and utilitarian design matches the adventurous spirit of the timepiece, but will appeal to wearers who want a no frills, rugged look.

Chart-topping specifications of the Oyster bracelet

Design | Three-piece link design is sleek and sporty

Material: Typically Oystersteel (a proprietary Rolex steel) or two-tone combos

Type: Secure Oysterlock clasp ensures safety

The Oyster bracelet enhances the watch's tool-y past on models such as this - a GMT-Master II "Pepsi" or "Batman," for instance - and stays true to its professional roots.

The Jubilee Bracelet: History and Design

If the Oyster bracelet is about utility, the Jubilee was born of refinement. Launched in 1945 for the Rolex Datejust, the understated five-piece link bracelet became a hallmark of the watch as it celebrated its 40th anniversary. The Jubilee is often seen as a more elegant mastering more polished surfaces that coupled with its more complex with multiple links design leads it to feel a classier watch typically is associated with dressier Rolex.

The Jubilee came to the GMT-Master, and later, the GMT-Master II. Its softer, more ornate design is a counterpoint to the sporty case of the watch, giving wearers a more refined, luxury version.

Jubilee Bracelet: Key Features

Design: Multilink with alternatives of polished and brushed finishes

MATERIALS Oystersteel, gold or other precious metals

Closure System: Includes the concealed Crownclasp for a continuous aesthetic

With the GMT-Master II the Jubilee bracelet is a sportier look, even a sporty, functional look, I always felt, but it is more the way to a sophisticated styling, a loved one for those who wanted to achieve a more refined edge.

Comfort and Wearability Comparison

Comfort is a major consideration when deciding between the Oyster or Jubilee wrist bracelets. Both are great in their own ways but appeal to slightly different tastes.

Oyster Bracelet Comfort

Its wider links and more rudimentary construction allow the Oyster bracelet to grip more tightly, more securely. Perfect for active lifestyles that prioritize durability and reliability. The flat links minimize the chance of pinching or tugging on the skin, particularly during extended periods of wear.

Jubilee Bracelet Comfort

The Jubilee bracelet, on the other hand, is even more comfortable thanks to its smaller and more pliable links. Its complex design wraps around the wrist so organically that it provides an almost cloud-like experience when on. If comfort is king for you, the Jubilee is almost always the choice.

Verdict? If you seek no-fuss reliability, the Oyster is for you. For a more supple fit, the Jubilee is recommended.

Each Bracelet for the GMT-Master II: Aesthetic Appeal

Aesthetics are subjective, of course, but here’s how all the bracelets play with the design of the GMT-Master II.

Oyster Bracelet: The durable construction of the Oyster dovetails with the tool-watch heritage of the GMT-Master II. It’s a great option for anyone who treats the watch like a functional accessory. Models such as the “Pepsi” (blue and red bezel) pair particularly well with an Oyster bracelet.

Jubilee Bracelet: The Jubilee bracelet, by contrast, raises the GMT-Master II to the status of a noticeable piece of jewelry. It tempers the athletic spirit of the watch and makes it a great option for dressier affairs. Most notably, the latest steel “Pepsi” is commonly worn on Jubilee bracelets, a clear indication of Rolex’s starring the new model to a more elegant mode.

In the end, it comes down to your style. Do you want something motor-y, sporty for that robust vibe or something more refined, dressier?

Value and Collectibility

For collectors, bracelet options can have a wide impact on the demand and resale of a GMT-Master II.

Oyster Bracelet Models: For countless collectors, models featuring an Oyster bracelet have always been a classic and are in high demand. Rolex as an association with sports watches make it so versatile that all buyers by default tend to think of it, whenever they think of sports watches.

Jubilee Bracelet Models: Meanwhile, the Jubilee bracelet lends a touch of exclusivity, especially on certain colorways such as the "Pepsi." Some collectors love the Jubilee for its vintage charm and sophistication, while others think it strays slightly from the GMT-Master II’s DNA.

While both bracelets are incredibly coveted from a price point, the Jubilee might slightly come out ahead due to the craftsmanship that goes into making it.

Which Bracelet Reigns Supreme?

Choosing between the GMT-Master II Oyster or Jubilee is ultimately down to your priorities.

Select the Oyster Bracelet if you favour sturdiness, minimalism and sportiness. This is the quintessential bracelet for those who tend to appreciate the watch’s professional origins.

Go for the Jubilee Bracelet if you value comfort, elegance and a more refined aesthetic. Its addition turns the GMT-Master II, however, into a diverse watch that can easily go from day to night.

Regardless of which you choose, both add their own take on enhanced charm to the GMT-Master II. If you can, I'd recommend trying the original and the new version on at your local authorized Rolex dealer, as I'm sure you'll make up your mind as to which one suits your style.