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10 Strange and Fascinating Truths about Marshallese Society

10 Strange and Fascinating Truths about Marshallese Society

By Omar SanPublished about a month ago 6 min read
10 Strange and Fascinating Truths about Marshallese Society
Photo by Vance Berisford on Unsplash

10 Strange and Fascinating Truths about Marshallese Society

The Marshall Islands are a country of 29 low-lying coral atolls and 1,156 individual islands and islets scattered across two million square kilometers of the Pacific Ocean. It's a place that defies easy understanding: to the outside world, it's a tropical paradise, a strategic location, or a nuclear test site; to the Marshallese people, it's a world on a delicate balance between land and sea, with ancient customs and challenged by a precarious modern reality. Their society is a complex tapestry woven from survival, resilience, and a unique worldview. Here are ten aspects of Marshallese society that may seem strange to outsiders but are fundamental to its identity.

#### 1. The "Bwij" System: A Matrilineal Empire of Clans

At the heart of Marshallese society lies the *bwij*, a complex and powerful matrilineal clan system. All Marshallese people belong to their mother's clan, and their affiliation determines their identity, land rights, and social obligations more than any other factor. What is strange to outsiders is the absolute authority it commands and its reach across geography. Each *bwij* has its assigned roles and responsibilities; some are "royal" clans (*Iroij*), from which the chiefs are chosen, others are "worker" clans (*Kajur*), and others are "landowner" or "speaker" clans (*Alab*). Remarkably, a single clan has members spread across different atolls, creating a network of extended family and obligation that transcends vast ocean distances-a decentralized, aquatic empire of kinship.

#### 2. Land is Not Just Dirt, It's a Skeletal Narrative

In a country with practically no natural resources and limited land, land (*aebōj*) is everything. It is not, however, held in Western notions of a simple title of ownership. Land is a living, complex history. Plots are subdivided among clan members, with specific rights for trees, crops, and access to the lagoon. Subdivisions are recorded not on a registry but in oral chants and stories that detail the history of the land, its previous owners, and the events that occurred on it. It is almost unthinkable to sell land; it would be the selling of your family's history and your descendants' heritage. From this evolves a society in which one's connection to a specific, painstakingly cataloged plot of earth is the most valued currency.

#### 3. The "Jebro" and the Outrigger Canoe as a Spiritual Vessel

The outrigger canoe is not just a means of transportation; it represents the epitome of Marshallese ingenuity and spiritual understanding of the ocean. Perhaps the most fascinating of all is the *jebro*, a triangular sail. More than just a technological device, the *jebro* has been considered a spiritual being. Before setting off on a voyage, the *jebro* would be prayed to and chanted for a safe journey. So perfected over millennia was the design that today the canoe can sail with incredible speed and precision. In a non-literate navigational society, Marshallese became the world's finest "stick chart" (*mattang*) navigators, traversing the open ocean using patterns of waves, swells, and the stars. The canoe represents a floating piece of Marshallese culture, embracing art, science, and faith.

#### 4. "American Dollar" and "Compact of Free Association" Economy

The official currency is the US dollar, but this is merely the tip of a very strange economic reality. The economy is largely kept sustainable by the Compact of Free Association that exists between the Marshall Islands and the United States. This gives the US strategic control, including a key military base on Kwajalein, in return for direct financial aid to the Marshall Islands. This has given rise to something described as a "grant economy" where a substantial part of the national budget comes from a foreign power. The question of dependency created by such a relationship shapes every aspect of society: from the level of government employment to the price of imported goods. The Marshallese economy is a unique case study in post-colonial geopolitical patronage.

#### 5. The Dual Legacy of "The Gift" and "The Poison"

The Marshallese live with a profound and bizarre duality: a beneficiary of US aid and victim of US nuclear testing. From 1946 to 1958, the US detonated 67 nuclear bombs in the Marshall Islands, including the devastating "Bravo Shot" on Bikini Atoll. The legacy is a "nuclear diaspora" of displaced communities and a terrifyingly high incidence of cancer and birth defects. The strangeness is in the cognitive dissonance: the same nation that gives them economic lifeblood is also responsible for an existential trauma that has poisoned their land and people. This dual identity as both "partner" and "victim" is a central, painful, and defining paradox of modern Marshallese consciousness.

#### 6. The Majuro "Nightlife" of Daytime Government In the capital, Majuro, the notion of "nightlife" as it is normally understood in the West simply does not exist. The social and political life of the nation obviously takes place overwhelmingly during the day. The strangeness is in the rhythm. Government offices and businesses open early and close early. The most important social and political meetings, so-called "meetings under the mango tree," take place in the open air. The fierce sun determines the program. When it gets dark, the city becomes very quiet, while life withdraws within family compounds. Such a public sphere is vivid and full of life in daylight but deeply private and family-oriented after dark. #### 7. The Culture of "Kilej" and Indirect Communication Direct confrontation is deeply discouraged in Marshallese culture. The preferred mode of interaction is through *kilej*--a form of indirection, subtle suggestion, and storytelling. A person hardly says "no." Rather, one might tell a story about a similar situation that turned out badly, or one will simply fall silent and switch topics. To outsiders, it is extraordinarily puzzling, but for Marshallese, this is a way of keeping harmony (*lommanj*) and respect. The ability to read the subtle signals of *kilej* is an important social skill in the conduct of relationships and community politics. #### 8. The Naming Ceremony of "Ami" But a child's first birthday is more than a celebration; it is a crucial social affair known as the *Ami* ceremony. At that time, the child is formally named, but more importantly, members of the wider family and clan make public declarations of particular plots of lands belonging to the child. This is, in effect, the formal integration of the child into the entire complicated web of land rights and clan obligations. In other words, it is a public declaration of one's place in this world, literally giving the child the piece of land that will define identity and economic futures for life. #### 9. The "Coconut Wireless" in the Digital Age On isolated atolls with very little infrastructure, the fastest form of communication has always been the "coconut wireless"-the rapid and efficient grapevine of human gossip and news. The strangeness in the modern era is how this has merged with technology. With the advent of social media, the coconut wireless has gone digital and hyper-charged. News, rumors, and family updates travel instantaneously via Facebook and WhatsApp, connecting the diaspora in Arkansas with families on remote atolls. This digital "coconut wireless" keeps the tight-knit, communal feel of the islands, even across thousands of miles of ocean. #### 10. A Nation Preparing for Its Own Funeral Perhaps the most profound and unsettling reality is that Marshallese society is collectively preparing for its possible demise. As one of the nations most threatened by sea-level rise from climate change, the possibility of becoming the world's first climate refugees is a daily topic of conversation. This is not an abstract, future threat but a present-day reality shaping policy, education, and individual life choices. In such a case, the government has explored plans for purchasing land in other countries, like Fiji, for eventual relocation. It's creating a society that lives with a unique kind of existential dread, where building a seawall is as much part of national planning as building a school, and preserving culture digitally as a vital act of survival. These ten points make Marshallese society a remarkable study in adaptation and duality: a place where ancient matrilineal clans govern a modern state, where a nuclear legacy funds a grant-based economy, and where the most advanced digital networks serve the oldest form of gossip. The "strangeness" is the logical outcome of a people negotiating the immense challenges of isolation, global politics, and an existential environmental threat with profound resilience and a unique cultural spirit which remains firmly anchored to their precious, fragile atolls.

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