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Is Fast Fashion Moving To Forever Fashion?

A look at how fashion is working on becoming a sustainable industry

By Yasmita KumarPublished 4 years ago 4 min read
BBC

The fashion industry is a perpetual cycle of generating trends, consuming them, and then throwing them away. Supplies are created quickly by manufacturers who want to make the most profit possible. Brands churn out new collections every season without much concern for enduring value or quality.

But as consumers grow weary of this fast-fashion cycle, some designers are refocusing their efforts on producing more sustainable pieces that will last longer - or at least be wearable long enough to warrant an investment from the buyer.

This new strategy of designing for longevity is now being called "forever fashion" in an attempt to distinguish it from the disposable sensibilities of fast fashion. The term, while not fully defined, implies that consumers can buy one garment without worrying about its shelf life. To stay relevant in the forever-fashion market, retailers and brands must change their strategies.

Stores are already making some changes to appeal to customers who want more sustainable clothing options. They're getting rid of “sale” sections altogether and relying more on regular discounts. They're also experimenting with flexible returns policies for clothing purchases that can't be worn outside or returned after being worn just once.

This shift could come at a cost to retailers and brands. They'll have to work harder to keep styles relevant in the marketplace. But it's likely that they'll be better off in the long run if they can earn the trust of customers who are willing to spend more money knowing that their clothes will last longer. Some consumers act like they want forever fashion, but they’re a small group

Forever fashion might not be as far-fetched an idea as it sounds at first. Nearly 60 percent of consumers said they would buy less clothing if it meant more pieces would last longer, according to a report from Deloitte Global and The Fashion Group.

But Deloitte also found that 27 percent of respondents believe that forever fashion is just a fad. At the same time, consumers who have purchased one item of clothing from a fast-fashion retailer are much more likely to purchase another item from the same brand than consumers who haven’t bought anything from fast-fashion retailers in the past 12 months.

But they don’t necessarily seek out forever fashion brands. For example, nearly half of Forever 21 customers have purchased only one piece of clothing from them, according to research by Edison Research, which was commissioned by Forever 21 as part of its “Consumers on Forever 21” branding campaign.

Therein lies the biggest challenge for forever-fashion companies. They’ll need to overcome their consumers’ habit of buying new clothing every season and “retrain” their consumers to shop with a longer-term perspective, much like the smartphone market which has become stagnant.

Forever-fashion brands can accomplish this in several ways: They could start creating shopping experiences that attract customers who want more than a one-time purchase; they could focus on making products that have more durability and last longer; or they could create brand images that emphasize these values

Although forever fashion is growing in popularity, it is not yet mainstream. Seventy-six percent of Americans said they are more likely to buy a garment that lasts longer, but only a quarter have purchased such an item in the past 12 months. Forever 21 is the exception to this rule, as sales of its Forever 21 Basics line – which includes pieces made from recycled cotton, rayon from bamboo, and other environmentally friendly materials – have helped the retailer become one of the top brands in young fashion.

Despite its popularity, however, half of respondents who have purchased everything on their wish lists from Forever 21 would not consider buying another piece of clothing from Forever 21; 17% wouldn’t purchase anything from Forever 21 at all.

In comparison, the top four clothing retailers in the US – Walmart, Target, Macy’s and Kohl’s – have all announced a commitment to eliminating plastic from their supply chains. While this helps the environment, clothing is still treated like a throwaway commodity and thrown away with no regard for its material value.

Fast fashion is costing the environment dearly. In Asia, where fast fashion originated, consumers are buying clothes for an average of $1 per week, according to a new report from the World Resources Institute. Expanding consumption at this rate is not sustainable, and it’s driving manufacturers to send more of their waste overseas instead of recycling it in the US or in local landfills.

In recent years, Forever 21 was one of the top offenders when it comes to sending waste to landfills. Between late 2017 and early 2018, Forever 21 sent more than 783 pounds of clothing to a landfill in Oregon – essentially earning an “F” grade on its own website when it comes to waste management.

And some brands are becoming more cognizant of the environmental impact of their clothing. This also includes brands in the tech space. H&M, a fast-fashion chain with stores around the world, has released ads showing a massive pile of clothes that were made but never sold in its stores. The images evoke the images of garbage dumps and ocean pollution caused by plastic trash. Walmart also announced plans to eliminate single-use plastic grocery bags from its stores and Sam’s Club locations by 2025. But it’s not time for brands to panic quite yet.

Entire businesses are being built to cater to this new market of conscious consumers. Online brands have an entirely different retail model. Instead of setting up shop in malls or on high streets, they sell their clothing online only. These brands’ business models rely on their ability to communicate the quality of their products online and through social media; that means they can’t afford to make a mistake. These brands are working to gain consumer trust by building awareness of their products and tapping into shoppers’ most fashionable Instagram feeds.

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